wheel removal on 1430

[kjm3232]

The other day i was going to do some work outside when i noticed an oil puddle by the right wheel. i was going to pull the wheel to see where the leak was coming from. I removed the cotter pin and put a 1 5/8 socket on the nut. I then put an 18" breaker bar and couldn't remove the socket. I then put a 2' pipe over the 18" breaker bar and still cant get the nut off. I had put WD40 on the threads to try to loosen it up for the breaker bar to get it off and still cant get the nut off. Any suggestion on removing the nut other than applying a torch to get it off or using a inpact wrench which i dont have? thanks

 

[BobRip]

Could it be a left hand thread? I can't tell when looking at my 422.

 

[ponytug]

Are you trying to remove the wheel motor? The hub? Or the wheel?

Sorry for being dense, but it sounds like you want to remove the motor, which has the oil, rather than the rim. (Remove the bolts- after 1st jacking up the tractor on stands and cleaning and disconnecting the hydraulic hoses, and plugging the hoses!)

All the best,

Peter

 

[J_J]

Peter. I think he is trying to remove the hub to see if the front seal is leaking, and he has to remove the nut on the tapered shaft for the hub to come off. I don't believe it is left hand thread.

 

[KentT]

I don't believe it is left hand thread.

The 425's wheel motors are NOT left hand thread. Can't speak for the other models but I'd assume they aren't either.

What happens is that you torque the castellated nut down to the desired minimum torque, then you find that the slot for the cotter pin doesn't mate up with the hole in the shaft, so the only alternative is to tighten it down even further to get the pin in...

If you loosen the nut to get the pin in, you'll have not met the minimum torque specs, and risk it working loose...

 

[kjm3232]

Peter. I think he is trying to remove the hub to see if the front seal is leaking, and he has to remove the nut on the tapered shaft for the hub to come off. I don't believe it is left hand thread.

jj you are correct, i'm trying to remove the wheel/rim to see what's leaking. the way it looks to me, i have to remove the big nut and the black plate first, then the 5 or 6 bolts in order to get the wheel off so i can see what's actually leaking.

 

[KentT]

jj you are correct, i'm trying to remove the wheel/rim to see what's leaking. the way it looks to me, i have to remove the big nut and the black plate first, then the 5 or 6 bolts in order to get the wheel off so i can see what's actually leaking.

You can simply unbolt the wheel from the hub to remove it, similar to changing a flat tire on your car. While this won't completely expose the front of the wheel motor, it will make it much easier to see down in there...

You then can pull the hub off (after removing that large nut) with a large gear/pully puller, if necessary. You don't remove the wheel and mounting hub all at one time...

 

[woodlandfarms]

Kent gave you the right info.. You do NOT remove the big nut, just the small ones like when you change a tire.

I was thinking my wheel motor had failed, but it turned out to be just a hose that had loosened up and was dripping. Where exactly are you seeing the oil (is it around the big nut?). Terry told me last week that if you see oil on the big nut then you might have a bad motor seal. Otherwise it is probably a hose...

 

[kjm3232]

I was thinking my wheel motor had failed, but it turned out to be just a hose that had loosened up and was dripping. Where exactly are you seeing the oil (is it around the big nut?). Terry told me last week that if you see oil on the big nut then you might have a bad motor seal. Otherwise it is probably a hose...[/QUOTE]


i wasn't seeing the oil around the big nut. It was on the backside of the wheel and some on the floor. i'll be taking the wheel off and see where i have to go next to fixed the problem. thanks all for the good info.

 

[farm23]

I had a similar leak. It turned out to be the seals on the motor. Fortunately the 1430 was in warranty and I sent both front motors back to PT for only the cost of the freight.

 

[kjm3232]

i took the wheel off last nite and after cleaning the leaves and other crud out there was a little bit of oil on all the crud. on the ouside of the housing where it is darker was the oil stains still wet. i checked the hoses and they were tight on the motor. i talked with terry today and he suggested putting the tire back on and running it for awhile then take the wheel off again and see where it's leaking from. He said if it is the moter seals than i would either find a local place to repair it or send it down to them for the repair

 

[woodlandfarms]

So, what kind of tools did you use to check the tightness of the hoses? I only ask this because I started out my PT experience with a nice crescent wrench (city boy idiot) and it quickly proved to be inadequate.

I am also dealing with a leak issue on my front motor. First, I cleaned it with brake cleaner fluid, just to get it nice and oil free, then if you want you can put in some leak detector (not super cheap but on the PT it seems that it should just be a given on installation ;-)

I did have one hose leak once because there was a bit of dirt on the threads and was not completely clean.

Carl

 

[kjm3232]

Carl, i used a large crescent wrench. Before i put the tire back on, i wiped the motor down pretty well. After running the tractor for about 10 minutes. i took the tire back off. Around the hoses where it connected to the motor it was dry, but at the back side on the bottom of the motor i could feel the oil when i wiped my hand across the bottomside. so, now to get it fixed.

 

[DonStillwagon]

It is probably the o-ring on the cap plate on the motor - I have had several leak on my White wheel motors - you can just get a seal kit from PT (or from White if that is what you have). Job is easy and can be done in 30 minutes if that is all it is. Be sure to mark the motor on both sides with an indelible marker before you take the bolts out. the bolts hold ALL the motor sections together, so be sure you are careful when taking the sections off to make sure you put them back EXACTLY the same. What I found was an abraded o-ring from excess pressure. You might check the top couple of sections for the same problem. Be sure to torque the bolts to factory specs (in the rebuild kit) when reassembling.

Good luck.

Don

 

[ponytug]

Dear Don,

Thanks for the informative comment. Was the o-ring abraded because of excess oil pressure? Or overtightening?

All the best,

Peter

It is probably the o-ring on the cap plate on the motor - I have had several leak on my White wheel motors - you can just get a seal kit from PT (or from White if that is what you have). Job is easy and can be done in 30 minutes if that is all it is. Be sure to mark the motor on both sides with an indelible marker before you take the bolts out. the bolts hold ALL the motor sections together, so be sure you are careful when taking the sections off to make sure you put them back EXACTLY the same. What I found was an abraded o-ring from excess pressure. You might check the top couple of sections for the same problem. Be sure to torque the bolts to factory specs (in the rebuild kit) when reassembling.

Good luck.

Don

 

[kjm3232]

It is probably the o-ring on the cap plate on the motor - I have had several leak on my White wheel motors - you can just get a seal kit from PT (or from White if that is what you have). Job is easy and can be done in 30 minutes if that is all it is. Be sure to mark the motor on both sides with an indelible marker before you take the bolts out. the bolts hold ALL the motor sections together, so be sure you are careful when taking the sections off to make sure you put them back EXACTLY the same. What I found was an abraded o-ring from excess pressure. You might check the top couple of sections for the same problem. Be sure to torque the bolts to factory specs (in the rebuild kit) when reassembling.

Good luck.

Don

don, thanks for the info. i was going to take the motor apart to see if it was the seal. Since Power trac is closed until july 7 i cant get the kit from them until then and the markings on the motor to indicate a manufacturer is not white and I haven't googled the words on it to see if it is a manufacturer.