Wheel Spacers

[pmsmechanic]

This is what I did instead of spacers. In about 5 minutes I can be wide for stability or narrow for maneuverability.

All I did was have two rings bent and then I just use two large bolts to hold the wheels on. If you want more details I can post some more pics if this site will let me down load them.

 

[sunnyside360]

(edited) here is what i found on JD's page for the 3000 series
Overall Width w/ R1 Tires (Maximum) (68.4 in.)

So if you stay inside that number you would add no more stress to the rear end than Deere intended.

First I've seen that argument. Excellent point.

 

[beenthere]

pms
That looks like a great solution.. for steep ground. Would like to see the build details..

 

[Kubota 2350]

does that model have the aluminum rear end? If so, i could see why they don't recommend spacers.

Yes it's an aluminum axle housing, dealer claims Deere told them not to install any spacers on the 30 series tractors, the dealer claims to have a service bulletin to this affect.

Guess my next step is to contact Deere, if I can find a phone number to their customer service department.

This is very big disappointment on an expensive tractor, just glad I found this out now rather than after
I bought the thing.

 

[LD1]

This is very big disappointment on an expensive tractor, just glad I found this out now rather than after
I bought the thing.

Now im confused

I thought you already bought this tractor? Are you saying you havent purchased it yet?

 

[sunnyside360]

Yes it's an aluminum axle housing, dealer claims Deere told them not to install any spacers on the 30 series tractors, the dealer claims to have a service bulletin to this affect.

Guess my next step is to contact Deere, if I can find a phone number to their customer service department.

This is very big disappointment on an expensive tractor, just glad I found this out now rather than after
I bought the thing.

BlackRaptor makes an excellent point in post #20 above. If the manual says the R1 wheels/tires can be widened up to 68+ inches it should not be a issue with putting spacers on R4 wheels. FYI, my 3720 is only about 56 inches wide with R4 tires/wheels as measured from outside of tread to outside of tread, and 60 inches wide with the 2" spacer on each rear wheel..... way less than 68 inches. Something just doesn't add up here with what your dealer is telling you.

Furthermore, I spoke to my John Deere dealer about installing wheel spacers on my 3720 prior to doing it and he said no problem. In fact he took the time to make sure he could order the spacers and gave me a price that was around $500. I opted to get the ones from ebay at half that price. That was about 4 or 5 years ago and I haven't had any problems whatsoever.

 

[Kubota 2350]

Now im confused

I thought you already bought this tractor? Are you saying you havent purchased it yet?

Dealer had to have shipped from one of their other stores about 40 miles away, it's now at the dealer I'm dealing with.


Going up there in a bit to see what's up with this service bulletin they have.

 

[Deere Dude]

Yes it's an aluminum axle housing, dealer claims Deere told them not to install any spacers on the 30 series tractors, the dealer claims to have a service bulletin to this affect.

Guess my next step is to contact Deere, if I can find a phone number to their customer service department.

I would like to see a bulletin by John Deere that says spacer cannot be used. The dealers word should be taken as gospel, but they are all over the board on spacer usage. If you find something, share it.

 

[Kubota 2350]

I would like to see a bulletin by John Deere that says spacer cannot be used. The dealers word should be taken as gospel, but they are all over the board on spacer usage. If you find something, share it.

I will know later today, and I will post my findings.

 

[LD1]

I dont see where "deere" would have an issue with spacers as long as it doesnt exceed the maximum width listed for R1's as mentioned earlier.

Now if you have R1's set as wide as the factory intended them to go, then wanted to add another 2-3" of spacers each side......I can see where they may have an issue with that.

Thats the camp I am in. I was already at max width with R1's, And had some jobs where I needed to mow on 25 degree side slopes. So I added spacers.

Here is what I did to mine. IIRC, its 1.5 each side

 

[BlackRaptor]

My dealer was also fine with spacers long as you stay inside of 68"
i just measured quick and with 4" more per side i'm about 64" so that's still 4" less than Deere says is within their tolerances.

I was looking around for the best price and for laughs i searched Amazon. they have a set of 4 for 290 bucks plus free shipping. that place really does sell everything ha-ha
If you search ( Wheel Spacers Extender 8 Lug 2" w/ 9/16" studs Skid Steer Bobcat Case (4 piece) ) they come right up

 

[oldpilgrim]

I understand that Deere doesn't allow a back hoe on the aluminum reared models. Maybe for the same weight reason?

 

[Kubota 2350]

I understand that Deere doesn't allow a back hoe on the aluminum reared models. Maybe for the same weight reason?

The funny part is you can put a back hoe on these tractors, per Deere.

 

[oldpilgrim]

the comparison ads I saw said no backhoe. Maybe it was a smaller unit?

eta... yup it was the 3032 that says no BH.

 

[sunnyside360]

The funny part is you can put a back hoe on these tractors, per Deere.

Yep -- 485 and 375 backhoes.

 

[BlackRaptor]

I think that's only the value lines that can't have backhoes. Because Deere offers backhoes for the 1000 through 4000 series.

 

[pmsmechanic]

pms
That looks like a great solution.. for steep ground. Would like to see the build details..

I haven't forgotten about you...well yes I did! I'll put some pictures up soon. As soon as I remember to take them!

 

[pmsmechanic]

In the back of my mind is this promise that I made....so here we go.



So this picture pretty well shows everything. I just had 4" wide steel rolled to the diameter I wanted at my steel supplier's. The hook is off of a logging type chain. I welded it to some 1" all thread. I welded some 5/8th's rod to the nuts so I could tighten the bolts with a hammer instead of having to carry a wrench around. At first both the all thread bolts were regular thread but the one wheel kept loosening off so I made the one bolt with reverse thread. Now both wheels are self tightening which works a lot better. Once the bolts are tight I don't have any trouble with the wheels spinning if an outside wheel gets all the power put to it.

I decided to attach the duals to the tractor by attaching then to the center hub with the bracket I made. I've lost a wheel before because of the bolts coming loose and I just figures it would be stronger if I attached the bracket to the center flange. All I did was drill through the flange and attach the brackets with some 1/2" grade 8 bolts. I didn't want to depend on the six bolts holding the wheel on to also support the dual. Especially with the kind of work I do with it.

The wheels and rims came off of eBay. They were about $600 with freight. Tires are $300+ each up here so I felt I did ok. The big center washer should be self explanatory.





And this is what I built the duals for. I don't know how to rotate the picture so my apology's. It doesn't look that steep in the pictures but look at how much the front wheels are cranked just to stay straight.

 

[LD1]

According to the level on my phone app

2nd pic = 68 degree slope
3rd pic = 110 degree slope

Man I need some duals:thumbsup: As well as whatever anti-gravity device you are using in the third pic

 

[pmsmechanic]

Well seeing as both pictures were taken at the same time your phone must need recalibrating,