Wheel stuck on hub

[PointyHairedBoss]

I'm doing some work on a 2004 B21TLB (my first tractor). I just put new tires on the front wheels. It was a bit of a job getting the wheels off the hubs - a little bit of gentle & not so gentle tapping finally did the job. When I put them back on, is there something I should do to the mating surfaces to prevent a recurrance of this freeze up in the future - grease or something else?

 

[JJZ 109]

I'm doing some work on a 2004 B21TLB (my first tractor). I just put new tires on the front wheels. It was a bit of a job getting the wheels off the hubs - a little bit of gentle & not so gentle tapping finally did the job. When I put them back on, is there something I should do to the mating surfaces to prevent a recurrance of this freeze up in the future - grease or something else?

Just put new front rotors on a '98 Cadillac. Even though the wheels came right off in this case, I've had times where that didn't happen.
Now, I apply a coat of Never Seize (actually the NAPA equivalent) to the surface where the rotor and back of the wheel meet.

 

[PointyHairedBoss]

... Never Seize ...

I just looked up this product on the internet. It looks a lot like a good pipe dope. I have a can of Masters Pro-Dope (paste type dope with teflon) which I use for threaded piping & I've never had a pipe joint seize when using this product.
Think I could use this instead?

 

[radioman]

you could try, but I wouldnt. It has the word sealant on the can doesnt it ?You are not trying to seal anything, but rather need a metalic type of never seize. It's not expensive and one can will last you a long time. I apply it regularly on my vehicles everytime I change the tire, do brake work, etc.

 

[rbargeron]

Any grease or sticky oil (bar & chain oil) will help. The key is to impede rust that makes the surfaces grow and get jammed. There isn't enough clearance for something like paint - which might make it even harder to take apart.

 

[JJZ 109]

I just looked up this product on the internet. It looks a lot like a good pipe dope. I have a can of Masters Pro-Dope (paste type dope with teflon) which I use for threaded piping & I've never had a pipe joint seize when using this product.
Think I could use this instead?

I just looked them up also. Never realized they had so many products. I'm no chemist but teflon probably would help in this situation.

It's not expensive and one can will last you a long time. I apply it regularly on my vehicles everytime I change the tire, do brake work, etc.

True enough. I've got a 6 or 8 ounce bottle that's I've had for probably almost 10 years and there's still about half a bottle left. It doesn't have to be applied heavily.

 

[leonz]

I'm doing some work on a 2004 B21TLB (my first tractor). I just put new tires on the front wheels. It was a bit of a job getting the wheels off the hubs - a little bit of gentle & not so gentle tapping finally did the job. When I put them back on, is there something I should do to the mating surfaces to prevent a recurrance of this freeze up in the future - grease or something else?

About your rims;


The need for cleanliness cannot be over emphasized here;

you need good emery paper in the roll to do this properly,

starting wil 120 grit and then a finer grit.


You will clog the paper quickly so get rid of it and continue

with new paper.


If you have a John Deere dealer that carries www.fluid-film.com that is the
best thing you can use for the mating surfaces as it penetrates
and prevents rust from forming.

As long as you have gone this far you should remove the rears and treat the hub and rim with the emery paper and fluid film.

You can look for a fluid film dealer through thier web page if no one carries it locally and have it mail ordered to you quickly.


Be sure to clean the hub threads and the lug nuts with the fluid film as well. The purchase of a wheel stud thread chaser and tap set is warranted here for your use and it will not be a wasted purchase.


There all fixed noiw sorry about that :^)

 

[crazyal]

I use the never seize on all rims. It's much better than grease or oil as it doesn't wash off. I also use it on lug nuts. But beware if not careful it will get on everything. It's not super hard to remove but can get messy real quick.

Pipe dope is not the same thing, not even close.

 

[JJZ 109]

If you have a John Deere dealer that carries fluidfilm

You do realize that the link provided goes to a media production company, not a lubrication/protection product don't you?
I think that you meant to look here: http://www.fluid-film.com/products/

 

[jlsmith]

Ok a dumb question here but wouldnt putting something like that on a rim have a greater chance in popping the tire off during normal operation. Seems to me it would be better to have the tire mounted on the rim with nothing at all except a good cleaning. I may be wrong JMO i have never used anything when mounting a tubless tire because i dont want my seal to beak. Im not dismissing the stuff just not fimilar with it, and would like to hear more.
Interesting topic.:thumbsup:

 

[crazyal]

I assumed we were talking about the steel wheel mounting to the hub not the tire bead. For tire bead all I ever use is dish soap.

 

[JJZ 109]

Ok a dumb question here but wouldnt putting something like that on a rim have a greater chance in popping the tire off during normal operation. Seems to me it would be better to have the tire mounted on the rim with nothing at all except a good cleaning. I may be wrong JMO i have never used anything when mounting a tubless tire because i dont want my seal to beak. Im not dismissing the stuff just not fimilar with it, and would like to hear more.
Interesting topic.:thumbsup:

I think now that we're getting a little confusion on the post. You now may be confusing someone's advice to sand down and lube the area between the hub and the wheel with sanding/cleaning up/lubing a rim before mounting a tire.
At least that's my read on it.
If the issue is a leaking bead around a tire, bead sealer is made specifically for that problem. Just had a car front tire fixed for that very problem.

 

[jlsmith]

I think now that we're getting a little confusion on the post. You now may be confusing someone's advice to sand down and lube the area between the hub and the wheel with sanding/cleaning up/lubing a rim before mounting a tire.
At least that's my read on it.
If the issue is a leaking bead around a tire, bead sealer is made specifically for that problem. Just had a car front tire fixed for that very problem.

Sorry I misread the original post:ashamed: I thought he was talking about the tire to the rim and after rereading noticed it was the rim to the hub. Sorry if I threw anybody off original topic

 

[JJZ 109]

Sorry I misread the original post:ashamed: I thought he was talking about the tire to the rim and after rereading noticed it was the rim to the hub. Sorry if I threw anybody off original topic

All good. At least we got two issues answered this way! :thumbsup:

 

[leonz]

You do realize that the link provided goes to a media production company, not a lubrication/protection product don't you?
I think that you meant to look here: Fluid Film? | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor

Yes thank you I fixed, it sorry about that fumble.




About the lovely tire to the rim issues:

I can highly recommend the Freylube brand of tire and rim lube offered by the Frey the wheel man folks.

The 10 pound tub is good for mounting tubeless and tube type tires and eliminates tubes and liners being pinched in the tire as the rim and inner tube have a coating of the Frey Lube rubbed on them and allows the tube to be fully inflated to stretch it and then the tire and tube tube are inflated with the valve core installed.

The Freylube is also very good for the wheel studs and nuts to eliminate any chance of rust occuring on the hub face and wheel face as well as it blocks any possible entry of water or moisture.

The frey lube also prevents the tire rusting to the wheel rims which makes one life so much easier when dismounting tires.

I unfortunately had to dismount and remount several herds of split rim tube type tires that a former co-worker mounted using Neversieze brand aluminum metal lube compound.

The use of neversieze on rubber tires swells the rubber to the rim and its not pretty you have to dissolve DL handlcleaner and let it leak into and under the locking rings and soak for several days before you can even think about breaking the beads on the split rim tires.

 

[Larry Caldwell]

About Never-Seez (that's how my can is spelled):

It's one of those things you buy once and never have to buy again. A little goes a long way. I use it on the choke threads on my shotguns, any bolt or nut that gets hot, like exhaust fittings, anything that sits out in the weather that might rust weld itself together, like the bolts on my concrete mixer, and anything that I spend two days swearing at and squirting with Kroil to try to get apart. Over the years, it will just start to make your life easier. You will bleed less from busted knuckles. Buy some.