Ballast Wheel Weights for 3720 with R4's

[NYBOB]

My dealer is telling me I can get 150 lbs on each rear wheel in wheel weights. Does this sound right? I have the tires loaded already and resorted to this since I have a very hilly terrain.

Thanks

 

[orlo]

Sounds kind of light. a 2305 will take a 72lb starter weight and at least one 50lb weight (maybe 2) per side.

I think you can put multiple 110's (or 1 110 and multiple 55's per side - At least 3-400lbs worth).

My old large R4's (I have R3's now) on my 3320 then 3720 took 900lbs of the 11.6lbs/gal brown wheel weight stuff.

Why not just use a ballast block? Rear ballast is better than wheel weights if you are using a loader (Both are the best).

 

[NYBOB]

Thanks...

I will be using a ballast box also...

 

[Superduper]

My dealer is telling me I can get 150 lbs on each rear wheel in wheel weights. Does this sound right? Thanks

If you are running R-4's, then this is correct. The R-4 rims can take 55lb weights, max 3 per side per owners manual. On the current Deere build site, I think it offers max of 2 per side. 3 weights plus mounting hardware will probably add about 167lbs per side.

If you are running R-1's, then you can use the larger (110, I believe) weights as the rims are larger in diameter.

 

[dirtworksequip]

NYBOB, I hope you have better luck than I did with trying to get weights for my 3520. I'd have to look to see what I ended up with total per side. It takes one starter weight and then you can stack as many additional weights as you desire. After two though you will be getting out past the edges of the tires. I went with the starter and two additional weights per side and then another custom weight to give a finished look. I've been told by some that these are not the correct weights for my wheels. Who knows???
If you have any questions feel free to ask. I'll help as best I can. Oh, one more thing....... no one seemed to know how the weights mated up to each other or what bolts I needed either. I finally figured it out, it was like a puzzle.
Sincerely, Dirt

Here are some pics of the 3520 in several stages of adding weights.
Below pic: starter weight install.
starterweightinstall.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Below pic: starter weight installed
wheelwithstarterweight.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Below pic: starter weight and two add on weights
JDcompleteweights.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Below pic: Custom center weight
customcenterweight.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

 

[NYBOB]

Dirt,

I made a deal to have them installed at no charge by the dealer. He has to come out and fix a few warranty items and will do it then. Hopefully they are the correct weights.

One thing I have found out, no matter what type of tractor you buy, there are issue with bad information. I am still trying to get JD corporate to tell my dealer that I can dish out my R4 wheels.

I will let you know how I make out.

Thanks
Bob

 

[jcmseven]

Bob,

I had wanted to put weights onto my 3720's wheels, but they just did not seem to offer much weight for the dollar. If you or anyone else can note whether they make any real difference in the stability or traction of your tractor, please let me know. I have several tight areas on my property with some really tight turns that prohibit my running or my BB in back for rear ballast. I have my rear tires loaded, but would like more weight. I have a ballast box with 420 pounds of quick tach weights in back, but even it prohibits fitting in some of my tighter areas. It sure would be nice to be able to mount some more weight actually on the tractor such that I could do away with hitch ballast at certain times, but I have felt this option did not add enough weight.

John M

 

[Superduper]

NYBOB, I hope you have better luck than I did with trying to get weights for my 3520. I'd have to look to see what I ended up with total per side. It takes one starter weight and then you can stack as many additional weights as you desire. After two though you will be getting out past the edges of the tires. I went with the starter and two additional weights per side and then another custom weight to give a finished look. I've been told by some that these are not the correct weights for my wheels. Who knows???
If you have any questions feel free to ask. I'll help as best I can. Oh, one more thing....... no one seemed to know how the weights mated up to each other or what bolts I needed either. I finally figured it out, it was like a puzzle.
Sincerely, Dirt

Dirt, the starter weight you have are the correct weights for your tractor. The starter and additional weights are the same so the "extra" weights that you have probably aren't standard fare. Deere manual does state that 3 weights per side is MAX but I don't know if that is due to them protruding from wheel edge or from excessive weight hanging on rim as the prescribed method of install involves spacers between first weight and rim to allow access to wheel bolts for torque checking or removing wheels with weights on, although the combined weight may make the process overwhelming unless you have a wheel dolly. The installation hardware needed for the R-4 installation is quite simple: M16 x 110mm bolts/nuts/washer (6) for the starter weight to bolt onto rim, LVU10300 spacers (6) to fit between weight and wheel, and M16 x 65mm bolts (3) for each additional weight to be installed. Cost is high, no question but unlike liquid ballast, which is cheaper, can be recaptured and easily removed or moved to another tractor. Two pictures below shows: (1) first weight installed with spacer, which allows access to lug bolts, and (2) second weight installed. I have 3 per side but don't have picture of 3rd weight installed but it looks the same except is flush with sides of rim.

You can see that there are numerous holes in the weights. The recessed holes on the outer edge are for mounting the weights onto rim. This gives a good flat edge to stack the additional weights to. Look closely and you'll see that on each weight, there are three holes tapped for M16-2.0 threads. These holes are intended to receive bolts which mount additional weights. Finally, the 3 holes without the recess that are not threaded are the holes for the bolts that will then bolt onto the threaded portion of the previous weight. Even though they protrude, you will notice that the bolts fit nicely into another recess on the flip side of the weight. Sounds confusing, it really isn't when you have the weights in front of you.

 

[Yourkie]

I've made several posts about my concerns on tractor stability on hilly property. I've never had a stability issue using my 755 with a MMM. It seems to have a low center of gravity. I've had it up on 3 wheels several times when I used the loader w/o a rear ballast but that is it. But overall it seems very balanced. I never mow with the loader btw.

I recently purchased a 3720 which will have a MMM and loader. Wheels set at max tread and unloaded tires. I'll let you know what I think. I don't like to have unecessary weight on the tractor as it is not a positive, unless it is needed..

 

[dirtworksequip]

Superduper, thanks for the explaination and pics. It looks like maybe the only thing I missed out on is the spacers between the starter weights and the wheels. I understand how the recesses and bolts line up and everything after doing my install. I'm OK with the weights I ended up with.................I like my stuff a little different than norm.

Sincerely, Dirt

 

[Superduper]

Superduper, thanks for the explaination and pics. It looks like maybe the only thing I missed out on is the spacers between the starter weights and the wheels. I understand how the recesses and bolts line up and everything after doing my install. I'm OK with the weights I ended up with.................I like my stuff a little different than norm.

Sincerely, Dirt

Different is good, you certainly will recognize your tractor in a croud of similar tractors.

The spacers from deere are outrageous in price, in my opinion. I ordered them sight unseen and when they arrived, I wasn't happy with what they were charging after I saw what I was getting but since I did order them, I took them as I didn't want the dealer to have to place them into stock and sit there like forever. If I were to describe them, I would say that they look simply like 5/8" x 1.5" steel bushings that are availabe at any AG supply store for about under a buck, which deere wanted like over 10x's that. They might be a little thicker but not so much that I wouldn't try the cheaper stuff first.

 

[Superduper]

Dirt,

I made a deal to have them installed at no charge by the dealer. He has to come out and fix a few warranty items and will do it then. Hopefully they are the correct weights.

One thing I have found out, no matter what type of tractor you buy, there are issue with bad information. I am still trying to get JD corporate to tell my dealer that I can dish out my R4 wheels.

I will let you know how I make out.

Thanks
Bob

You can't really dish them out like you would with the R-1 type rims which are two peice that can be adjusted to 8 different positions. The only thing you can do is flip the entire rim/tire assembly over and swap side/side for an additional 1.5" +/- wider track. This procedure is clearly shown and stated in owners manual and recommended. Perhaps JD corporate is trying to state that the rims are not adjustable and therefore, un-dishable?

 

[dirtworksequip]

Superduper, thanks for the bushing size for the starter weights. I can check at TSC to see if they might have something that will work.
Thanks again for the info.
Sincerely, Dirt

 

[orlo]

Dirt:

If you end up not liking the stability you could also try wheel spacers. I put 6" Unverferth spacers (6" per wheel) on my 3720 to set the wheels a foot wider. Makes a big difference.

 

[dirtworksequip]

orlo, I already put 4 inch unverferths on it shortly after I got it early last year. Probably should have gone 6 inches.

Sincerely, Dirt

 

[putt_putt_green]

See the following link for my little concrete wheel weight project I did for my 3520 on the smaller R4 rims. The weights were 85 pounds a piece when I was done. Total cost was a fraction of the cost of steel weights. They come on and off easy enough.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/106373-little-concrete-wheel-weight-project.html

Heres the finished product.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x10/todd_and_katy/WheelWeight/WheelWeight4.jpg

 

[NYBOB]

Can I ask how much the Unverferth 4 inch adapters cost? Do you put them on the front also?

I don't believe I can put 6 inch ones on since I have to keep my track under 72 inches or so since I have a 6 1/2 snow plow.

Thanks

 

[jcmseven]

Superduper:

May I ask have you been able to notice any performance or stability difference from your tractor due to the weights being added???

John M

 

[dirtworksequip]

NYBOB, the 4" extensions were almost $500 since they were a custom size. Check with an unverferth dealer as you can't buy directly from unverferth. Ask what stock sizes they may have that would be cheaper than custom. I would go with the widest that will work with your tractors implements. Although the extensions are expensive it was cheaper than rolling my tractor over the hill. I installed on the rear only. I guess you could do fronts too if you thought it was necessary.

Sincerely, Dirt

 

[Superduper]

Superduper:

May I ask have you been able to notice any performance or stability difference from your tractor due to the weights being added???

John M

I'm very conservative in the way I operate my tractor and consequently have not had a situation where a wheel has lifted and I am too much of a wimp to test it to it's limits. Conventional wisdom says that the tractor should be more stable. I have a few side slopes that I am concerned with and installed the weights as an added measure of safety and I always go real slow. But in truth, I believe it is for peace of mind rather than something you can actually notice. I mean, how will you know unless the tractor started to go over before (or went over) and now it doesn't? As far as the feeling of instability goes, the tractor is the same height and you sit at the exact same location, and the wheels are the same wheel track as before so the pucker factor is exactly like it was before/after. I know, we've all read other examples of other posters saying they filled the rear tires and the tractor is more stable: Maybe it's just me but I don't know, how can you tell?

This much I can tell you; they do make a difference in traction, that is for sure.