JDgreen227
Super Member
When I try it outdoors I will use a shield over the battery...!!!
When do you replace a battery?
- Thread starter BobRip
- Start date
- Views: 12991
When I try it outdoors I will use a shield over the battery...!!!
EE_Bota
Elite Member
The battery may reject the shield utterly. Perhaps reserve the shield for yourself, unless you have a similar tendency.
aczlan
Good Morning
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2008
- Messages
- 17,540
- Tractor
- Kubota L3830GST, B7500HST, BX2660. Formerly: Case 480F LL, David Brown 880UE
bp fick
Super Member
Like most of you, I'm old school. Always have a set a jumper cables packed under the rear back in my wife's SUV. She knows they are there.
Sometimes, a battery will begin to moan or slow start around 4 years of age or so. Normally, I just get going and change it out as it isn't going to get any younger. I don't want my wife stranded.
Sometimes, a battery will begin to moan or slow start around 4 years of age or so. Normally, I just get going and change it out as it isn't going to get any younger. I don't want my wife stranded.
JDgreen227
Super Member
Wife is currently (pun intended) commuting with a Saturn L-300 made in June of 2003 and it still starts well in Michigan winters with the OEM Delco battery, it will be nine years old soon and I think I will replace it then. Amazes me how long today's OEM batteries last.
ultrarunner
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2004
- Messages
- 29,497
- Tractor
- Cat D3, Deere 110 TLB, Kubota BX23 and L3800 and RTV900 with restored 1948 Deere M, 1949 Farmall Cub, 1953 Ford Jubliee and 1957 Ford 740 Row Crop, Craftsman Mower, Deere 350C Dozer 50 assorted vehicles from 1905 to 2006
Every car in the family has a little duffel in the back with jumper cables... better have and not need...
Jay4200
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2005
- Messages
- 2,054
- Location
- Hudson/Weare, NH
- Tractor
- L4200GST w/ LA680 & BX2200D w/ LA211
Probably not, but higher levels can. I have a charger with a 50A charge/225A start setting. I have set up beat-up batteries on this mode and watched it de-sulfate. Upon initial hookup, current draw will be low. Then, the current will start to creep up - I'd drop down to a lower mode once the current got up to 30-40A. You do have to watch it though since you are well above gassing voltage - I did come close to blowing a battery up once.
JayC
ultrarunner
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2004
- Messages
- 29,497
- Tractor
- Cat D3, Deere 110 TLB, Kubota BX23 and L3800 and RTV900 with restored 1948 Deere M, 1949 Farmall Cub, 1953 Ford Jubliee and 1957 Ford 740 Row Crop, Craftsman Mower, Deere 350C Dozer 50 assorted vehicles from 1905 to 2006
At the Dealership we called that "Cooking" the battery... worked lots of times.
Always have the caps off and done outside where I worked...
Always have the caps off and done outside where I worked...
As a mechanic, to desulfate a battery you need about 70 amps or better.
What I learned from a parts person was that, and I worked at a truck dealership, we sold 1000CCA batterys and 760CCA ones I always thought the bigger ones would be better. Trucks in my neighborhood run 4 batterys, anyways he informed me that the 1000's had a much higher warranty return rate than the 760's did. The reason is that on a 1000 the lead plates fill the case, a 760 has space under the plates, so when the material sloughs off it has a space to settle the 1000's do not have the space so they are away more prone to short out.
I have a 100 amp none regulated charger that I use to rejuvenate a dead battery, I always take it out of the vehicle and do it at the back of my shop. I connect the charger to the battery, then as walking away, plug it in. If it is a high CCA battery very few will come back.
I have seen it where just gosling the battery from side to side will free up the crud at the bottom and the battery will charge.
Even when a battery is rejuvenated it is a wounded piece, and in my area lives till the first cold spell.
I have found that when I call for a battery and the original equipment was a 550 that is what I buy.
If you have multiple batteries every year you should separate them and charge them independently, and if posible test them independently. even if that is only leaving them for a couple of hours after charging and checking the voltage. If it is lower than 12.6 the battery is junk.
If you put the charger on a battery that is at 11.5 and it goes to full charge in 10 minutes it is sulfated.
If you have multiple batteries and one goes bad replace them all, and use the others as a spare.
Using one new and one old, will boil the new one and the old one will stay cold and not charge properly.
They make a fancy computerized battery tester that works great.
What I learned from a parts person was that, and I worked at a truck dealership, we sold 1000CCA batterys and 760CCA ones I always thought the bigger ones would be better. Trucks in my neighborhood run 4 batterys, anyways he informed me that the 1000's had a much higher warranty return rate than the 760's did. The reason is that on a 1000 the lead plates fill the case, a 760 has space under the plates, so when the material sloughs off it has a space to settle the 1000's do not have the space so they are away more prone to short out.
I have a 100 amp none regulated charger that I use to rejuvenate a dead battery, I always take it out of the vehicle and do it at the back of my shop. I connect the charger to the battery, then as walking away, plug it in. If it is a high CCA battery very few will come back.
I have seen it where just gosling the battery from side to side will free up the crud at the bottom and the battery will charge.
Even when a battery is rejuvenated it is a wounded piece, and in my area lives till the first cold spell.
I have found that when I call for a battery and the original equipment was a 550 that is what I buy.
If you have multiple batteries every year you should separate them and charge them independently, and if posible test them independently. even if that is only leaving them for a couple of hours after charging and checking the voltage. If it is lower than 12.6 the battery is junk.
If you put the charger on a battery that is at 11.5 and it goes to full charge in 10 minutes it is sulfated.
If you have multiple batteries and one goes bad replace them all, and use the others as a spare.
Using one new and one old, will boil the new one and the old one will stay cold and not charge properly.
They make a fancy computerized battery tester that works great.
JDgreen227
Super Member
I have wondered a few times if it was possible to renew a sulphated 12 volt battery by removing the caps and draining the acid and water mix, then using a pressure washer to inject a stream of water to maybe remove and flush out deposits, rinsing and rinsing, and then refilling with the proper acid/water mix and charging?
chopped
Veteran Member
JD sounds interesting. I wonder the cost of the acid and its avalibility.Im looking forward to what others say but it seems as though it would work..
OP
BobRip
Elite Member
I have heard of people disassembling batteries and fixing them. It sounds a little dangerous and a lot of work. I dn't think the resulting battery would be as good as new or even close. You would probable loose some lead. Just guessing here.
ultrarunner
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2004
- Messages
- 29,497
- Tractor
- Cat D3, Deere 110 TLB, Kubota BX23 and L3800 and RTV900 with restored 1948 Deere M, 1949 Farmall Cub, 1953 Ford Jubliee and 1957 Ford 740 Row Crop, Craftsman Mower, Deere 350C Dozer 50 assorted vehicles from 1905 to 2006
When I walked to school I would pass a little shop that rebuilt batteries...
He would take them apart to see the condition of the plates... if they still had life, he cleaned them up and the case... the case bottoms would always have cast of lead.
Assemble them back together and seal the rubber case with tar.
The old exide battery plant his had ongoing soil contamination for almost as long as I have been around... when they closed the plant the neighbors persuaded the city to make it a park with youth center.
He would take them apart to see the condition of the plates... if they still had life, he cleaned them up and the case... the case bottoms would always have cast of lead.
Assemble them back together and seal the rubber case with tar.
The old exide battery plant his had ongoing soil contamination for almost as long as I have been around... when they closed the plant the neighbors persuaded the city to make it a park with youth center.
JDgreen227
Super Member
That seems very risky....working with that amount of lead every day.
ultrarunner
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2004
- Messages
- 29,497
- Tractor
- Cat D3, Deere 110 TLB, Kubota BX23 and L3800 and RTV900 with restored 1948 Deere M, 1949 Farmall Cub, 1953 Ford Jubliee and 1957 Ford 740 Row Crop, Craftsman Mower, Deere 350C Dozer 50 assorted vehicles from 1905 to 2006
He was an old guy... one-man shop and a helper.
One day the business had a out of business sign and not too long after that, the old block building was gone.
He wore a long black rubber apron, rubber gloves and a face shield... no mask that I remember... all the floors and benches were timber...
Interesting little fellow... did a lot of Fork Lift Batteries... he said not much money in automotive anymore... everyone wants maintenance free now...
One thing I found interesting was he had two automotive batteries that were looked the same... one had almost nothing inside and the other about double... also the cheap one had some type of wood or fiber separators... might have been something else... he said it was made to sell and the other to last.
A lot of batteries could be rejuvenated by simply cleaning the inside and straining the electrolyte through a filter and putting it back in...
EE_Bota
Elite Member
I don't think that would work out well, based on some of the technology some batteries use to try to defeat the problem. Much of the material will be within the pores of the the lead sponge, not on the surface, since surface area is very important.
Look at the battery technology from Firefly. If they have not taken down the graphics on it, you will likely find them here.
Technology Overview - fireflyenergy.com
OP
BobRip
Elite Member
That is certainly an improved battery.
psdx
Gold Member
JDgreen227 said:
One change is that the compression on these engines have gotten higher since that rule of thumb came along. Presumably this requires more starter hp to spin the engine, and subsequently more current draw when the starter is operating. This would affect the reserve capacity requirement. I certainly can't say how much this contributes to the change referenced above, but it will be a piece of the equation.
jonyyuma
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2010
- Messages
- 2,922
- Location
- 35 miles North of Memphis,TN
- Tractor
- kubota L3000dt, ford 8n1952
I did some work years a go in a battery re-build shop, they stood by them a year.....I then took apart a Diehard a couple years old and cleaned it...Everything has to be perfect, the lead sulfate had set up like putty{so much for washing it out} no way to apply pressure on it? trying to reseal the top was tedious, ,so I kept it in a plastic battery box for a boat. Electrolite is not cheap, bought it at parts supply...For sure a waste of time.. and resources, plus exposure to lead to my body.
crazyal
Super Member
So I have an update on my battery. First a little background. The battery in question is a 1400CCA 8D Interstate Workoholic. I have it in a gas powered International Loadstar 1700 2 1/2 ton 4x4 dump truck. The truck has air brakes so when turning the engine over it's also compressing air. Two years ago I bought an old fire truck (same make and model but the engine was larger and in great shape) and used the two to make the truck more reliable. I use the truck mainly for plowing my driveway, it has a 10' plow with a Western electrically powered (starter motor) hydraulic pump.
The truck sits for quite some time, mainly in the summer. This fall it was slow to turn over but I did get it to start in about 50 degree weather. As winter set in the battery would turn the motor over for a few seconds pretty strongly but then quickly (seconds die). Every time I needed it I would jump it off of my Tundra, it would quickly start. Once started and running it would show the alternator charging the battery but even after a half hour if I stalled it there's no way the battery would start the truck.
What finally pushed the issue was when I stalled it half way down the ROW and was blocking the driveway. I was lucky and was able to roll backwards fast enough to bump start it but since I do plow down to the main road where I sometimes drive on it and stalling on a state road with a truck that big and having to walk back up (uphill) 3/4 of a mile to get my truck to jump start it wouldn't be a good thing.
So after the BatteryMINDer work so well on the other battery (one of two that were in the firetruck when I got it) I put it on the larger battery. Before charging it I put my SpeedCharger on it and it said 20% charged and 12.1 volts. So I left the BM charging it set to 8 amps for 5 days and just checked it this afternoon. Now it's reading 13.4v and 100% charged. I couldn't find my battery load tester so I used some cheap jumper cables and shorted the other end with a piece of 12 gauge copper wire for about 15 seconds (enough to get the wire very hot), the voltage dropped to 13.3v and went right back to 13.4v and still reads 100%.
Tomorrow I'll put it back in the dump truck and see how well it works. I'll also put the other battery in the passenger's side of the truck with jumper cables just in case. I'm still not ready to say the BatteryMINDer works but I'm starting to think that I should put it on some of the other older batteries I have, better safe than sorry.
The truck sits for quite some time, mainly in the summer. This fall it was slow to turn over but I did get it to start in about 50 degree weather. As winter set in the battery would turn the motor over for a few seconds pretty strongly but then quickly (seconds die). Every time I needed it I would jump it off of my Tundra, it would quickly start. Once started and running it would show the alternator charging the battery but even after a half hour if I stalled it there's no way the battery would start the truck.
What finally pushed the issue was when I stalled it half way down the ROW and was blocking the driveway. I was lucky and was able to roll backwards fast enough to bump start it but since I do plow down to the main road where I sometimes drive on it and stalling on a state road with a truck that big and having to walk back up (uphill) 3/4 of a mile to get my truck to jump start it wouldn't be a good thing.
So after the BatteryMINDer work so well on the other battery (one of two that were in the firetruck when I got it) I put it on the larger battery. Before charging it I put my SpeedCharger on it and it said 20% charged and 12.1 volts. So I left the BM charging it set to 8 amps for 5 days and just checked it this afternoon. Now it's reading 13.4v and 100% charged. I couldn't find my battery load tester so I used some cheap jumper cables and shorted the other end with a piece of 12 gauge copper wire for about 15 seconds (enough to get the wire very hot), the voltage dropped to 13.3v and went right back to 13.4v and still reads 100%.
Tomorrow I'll put it back in the dump truck and see how well it works. I'll also put the other battery in the passenger's side of the truck with jumper cables just in case. I'm still not ready to say the BatteryMINDer works but I'm starting to think that I should put it on some of the other older batteries I have, better safe than sorry.
