when do you toss a cylinder?

   / when do you toss a cylinder? #11  
Prior to panicing, it's very likely that it's something simple and free or very cheap to repair.
Run the cylinder out of the grapple and see where it's leaking;

1) check hose fittings for tightness.
2) check hoes for the end coming off of the rubber hose (it happens)
3) check that the cylinder gland is not loose (if it is a screw in/on gland)
 
   / when do you toss a cylinder? #12  
To give an idea I just had the boom cylinder rebuilt on my back hoe. $234 included total rebuild /repack including a new cylinder as mine had a nick. They also had to cut the eye off the old cylinder and weld it to the new one. I considered that fairy reasonable
 
   / when do you toss a cylinder? #13  
Another repair, just to give U an idea\
3 yrs ago, 24" X 1" lift cyl with badly scored shaft,
made new shaft, all seals packing etc and a 16" hose (should have removed it) including paint cost me $140.00
 
   / when do you toss a cylinder?
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I appreciate all the input guys. I did check for fitting tightness, where I could get to. Truthfully too lazy to unbolt the cover so I could see better, figured it was three month's old, let
the dealer fix it since I had to take the tractor back in for a hydraulic check anyway.

cylinders for this size equipment, not large, don't seem that expensive, in the 100 to 300 dollar range. Likely to just be changed out under warranty, assuming the dealer can reproduce the leak.
It's a slow leak, so I've continued to use the tractor and grapple just fine, obviously keeping an eye on it and my fluid levels.
The question I'm curious about is if the dealer will try to renovate the cylinder or just chuck it into the metal recycling bin. Sounds like most can get fixed, which is good.

more later when I hear back from the dealer. I got all my wood done yesterday, so now it's many days of running the log splitter. Good time for the tractor to be away.
 
   / when do you toss a cylinder? #15  
daugen,

If the dealer does s-can the old cyl into the recycle bin, make sure you ask if you can get it from them......it'll do them no good, but will be good for you as spare parts or rebuild it yourself or an education of what it looks like inside
 
   / when do you toss a cylinder?
  • Thread Starter
#16  
daugen,

If the dealer does s-can the old cyl into the recycle bin, make sure you ask if you can get it from them......it'll do them no good, but will be good for you as spare parts or rebuild it yourself or an education of what it looks like inside

Of course, one has to wonder if the goof folks in SC where it was made want a look at that cylinder too. Technically if they replace the part under warranty, don't they get to keep it/"salvage rights" on the part?
If no one wants it, I'd rather do exactly as you suggest, take it apart and fix it or part it if possible. If something is obviously bent, I'll take a picture of it. Just curious what fails.

Is there a brand of cylinder that is US made and of known high quality? I think I need to get to know them...
and I would still like to know if tie rods help overall. thanks
 
   / when do you toss a cylinder?
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Prior to panicing, it's very likely that it's something simple and free or very cheap to repair.
Run the cylinder out of the grapple and see where it's leaking;

1) check hose fittings for tightness.
2) check hoes for the end coming off of the rubber hose (it happens)
3) check that the cylinder gland is not loose (if it is a screw in/on gland)

thanks, no panic, it still works fine, just drips a bit.
cylinder gland, well, not sure which part that is. The outer seal?
 
   / when do you toss a cylinder?
  • Thread Starter
#19  
So your positive its the cylinder leaking ?
no, but saw no damage or leaks in the lines or fittings, what I could see.
Now I wish I had taken off the cover to look further.
 
   / when do you toss a cylinder?
  • Thread Starter
#20  
one more thought. The FEL can exert a lot of pressure, and if I pushed against the grapple, let's say drove it backwards
against its current position, pushing the rod into the cylinder. What gives assuming it isn't driven through the other end?
Seems to me the most likely culprit would be the outer retainer (the cylinder gland? sorry) that got crushed under a side force.
But I also could have, shall we say, compressed that cylinder against its will. Maybe normal wear and tear, or poor operating procedure,
and not necessarily a bonafide warranty claim. But with forty hours on the tractor, my guestimate would be a first time replacement.

The dealer is also working on the hydraulic system, increasing its overall pressure. Now I don't think this cylinder "popped its cork" from overpressure, but
rather from an overwhelming opposing force. Which begs the question, do I need bigger, stronger cylinders? I'll hold on that until I find out, if I do, what went
wrong. Springing a leak with no visible damage in less than forty hours of operation is not a situation I would like to repeat.
 

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