When to worry about black smoke?

[bmaverick]

Eric,

Generally we flush the hydraulics with diesel. I filled mine about 80% or just over 2/3rds full. Drive the machine around for about 10mins and then drained.

Hydraulic Fluid Change

If you can drain 1-quart of engine oil and then add 1-quart of diesel, then start the tractor from a cold engine, let it run at 1,500rpms for 10 to 15 mins. This is basically a Gunk Motor Flush, but using diesel. Should you do this technique, be sure to also change the oil filter.

Hydraulic fluid is any fluid meeting the J20C specification, not being 'compatible' to the specification. At present there are a few class action lawsuits over the 'compatible' which is a marketing ploy and has no merits to mean equal nor better.

If you can find Yanmar TF500A, you found John Deere J20C in a Yanmar bottle.

Engine oil for the Yanmar 2T, 3T and 4T engines per the Yanmar website.

John Deere for the 50 Series of Yanmar made machines.

Oil filter needs to have a blow-by should the filter become totally clogged. Not sense risking a stopped up oil filter to starve the engine. Filter needs to be no value less than the mid-20 micro media level, UNLESS you go with a taller filter. The taller filter allows better oil flow as the filter fills up each and every use. If you have a loader or other item in the way, make considerations on just how tall of a filter you can run with.

Hoye and Fredricks have the correct height air filters. Other distributors are using the generics that 'could' fit and allows some dirty air leakage. IF you do go with a 3rd party air filter, be sure to also buy 3/8-inch thick neoprene closed cell pad and cut it to shape to fit the gap. Neoprene closed-cell pad material is the same stuff Dr. Scholl's shoe inserts are made from.

If you are going to this trouble of a tune up, also SeaFoam thru the fuel tank. Follow the directions on the bottle.

Follow the ops manual and grease all the zerk fittings too. There should be about 20-ish for 2WD and about a dozen more for 4WD. Yes, crawl under the tractor and look up too. They are everywhere.

 

[careyo63]

@etpm Yes, diesels smoke (a little) when loaded, and heavy tilling is definitely loading. Running the engine so that it isn't smoking heavily is the goal. So, increase the rpm's, or reduce the load or both. "Moose pee" will help clean the injectors, which will help all of the fuel get burned cleanly, which will reduce smoke. If the prior owner lugged the engine a lot, or only used the engine briefly and never got the engine hot, there will be carbon on the injectors and cylinder walls that will slowly get burned off as you use it more, and for longer periods when hot.

For older diesels like ours, "moose pea" cetane additives are essential. (Love that description!) I have used most of them and can't really tell the difference (SeaFoam, Power Service Diesel Kleen, and I am currently using Opti-Lube summer+), with one exception. Diesel Purge from LiquiMoly did really clean out my diesels and noticeably improved the clean burning, despite having always bought quality diesel, and always running one of the three other additives. It is best to use Diesel Purge straight by running the fuel line into the can, failing that, put a new fuel filter on, prefill the bowl with Diesel Purge, and put the rest the Diesel Purge in your fuel tank, when the tank is relatively empty. Try to run it with the engine running wide open; I find mowing to be a good use. As this tractor is new to you, would file it under the probably worth doing, can't hurt category.

It also never hurts to double check your air filter, but is suspect yours is new within the last 35 hours.


Sounds interesting! Can you elaborate?

All the best,

Peter

Oh yeah small droplets through the Exhaust. Esp on a long hot day. They would show up on the hood. And Me!!! learned quick don't try brushing them off. They smeared like dirty Blk. Grease!!!!. Cleaned the exhaust out a couple times and turned the Cap around and it finally quit. To the day I lift the cap lid and clean it. Which the Oil/Carbon does show up on.

 

[etpm]

Eric,

Generally we flush the hydraulics with diesel. I filled mine about 80% or just over 2/3rds full. Drive the machine around for about 10mins and then drained.

Hydraulic Fluid Change

If you can drain 1-quart of engine oil and then add 1-quart of diesel, then start the tractor from a cold engine, let it run at 1,500rpms for 10 to 15 mins. This is basically a Gunk Motor Flush, but using diesel. Should you do this technique, be sure to also change the oil filter.

Hydraulic fluid is any fluid meeting the J20C specification, not being 'compatible' to the specification. At present there are a few class action lawsuits over the 'compatible' which is a marketing ploy and has no merits to mean equal nor better.

If you can find Yanmar TF500A, you found John Deere J20C in a Yanmar bottle.
View attachment 741242

Engine oil for the Yanmar 2T, 3T and 4T engines per the Yanmar website.

View attachment 741243

John Deere for the 50 Series of Yanmar made machines.

View attachment 741244


Oil filter needs to have a blow-by should the filter become totally clogged. Not sense risking a stopped up oil filter to starve the engine. Filter needs to be no value less than the mid-20 micro media level, UNLESS you go with a taller filter. The taller filter allows better oil flow as the filter fills up each and every use. If you have a loader or other item in the way, make considerations on just how tall of a filter you can run with.

Hoye and Fredricks have the correct height air filters. Other distributors are using the generics that 'could' fit and allows some dirty air leakage. IF you do go with a 3rd party air filter, be sure to also buy 3/8-inch thick neoprene closed cell pad and cut it to shape to fit the gap. Neoprene closed-cell pad material is the same stuff Dr. Scholl's shoe inserts are made from.

If you are going to this trouble of a tune up, also SeaFoam thru the fuel tank. Follow the directions on the bottle.

Follow the ops manual and grease all the zerk fittings too. There should be about 20-ish for 2WD and about a dozen more for 4WD. Yes, crawl under the tractor and look up too. They are everywhere.

I already greased the many zerks when I first got the tractor. The tractor came with oil filters so I will check to see if they have the bypass and if they are the longer type. They are, I believe, WIX brand. I don't think the air filter is stock. The filter canister is a fairly long cylinder. The rings that go around it and which are bolted to the tractor do not fit tightly. But the air filter element inside does fit properly.

How important is it to flush the hydraulic system? It is working properly. If I do flush it then I will need to dump about 4 gallons of diesel. I don't think it will be a good idea to run it through the engine after using it to flush the hydraulic system.


I might check valve clearance too, but I don't think they will be out of spec.

When I changed the motor oil I poured the oil into the valve cover. The thin manual that came with the machine says to add oil through the dipstick hole. I find this odd. Did some engines not have a cap on the valve cover for adding oil?
Thanks,
Eric

 

[bmaverick]

I already greased the many zerks when I first got the tractor. The tractor came with oil filters so I will check to see if they have the bypass and if they are the longer type. They are, I believe, WIX brand. I don't think the air filter is stock. The filter canister is a fairly long cylinder. The rings that go around it and which are bolted to the tractor do not fit tightly. But the air filter element inside does fit properly.

How important is it to flush the hydraulic system? It is working properly. If I do flush it then I will need to dump about 4 gallons of diesel. I don't think it will be a good idea to run it through the engine after using it to flush the hydraulic system.


I might check valve clearance too, but I don't think they will be out of spec.

When I changed the motor oil I poured the oil into the valve cover. The thin manual that came with the machine says to add oil through the dipstick hole. I find this odd. Did some engines not have a cap on the valve cover for adding oil?
Thanks,
Eric

I repurposed the diesel for 'parts' washing or as a cheap penetrating oil or to douse on a burn pile that takes off nicely (way slower than gasoline).

Yanmar oil fill locations varied. Depends on both the engine and model. Most of the smaller 2 cylinder engines had the oil pour in thru the top. The 3 cylinder engines have an actual oil port and dip stick.

 

[Rockbadchild]

to me its normal, in my opinion tractors in the 80's produce more smoke then nowadays.

 

[ponytug]

@etpm So, how is it going for you and your new to you tractor?

All the best,

Peter

 

[etpm]

Greetings Peter,
Things are going quite well with my new to me tractor. The bucket would not curl enough when at ground level to hold much dirt or rocks or whatever. To fix this problem I made extensions for the FEL arms. This changed the pivot point and added about 12 degrees more of curl. I lost some dump so now the dump angle is about 87 degrees. I don't remember exactly the degrees but I did make a post in the Yanmar group describing what I did complete with pictures. I also had to fix a problem with the shifting linkage for the PTO speeds. When I got the tractor the exterior linkage was frozen with rust. I eventually got everything to break loose. To prevent this problem in the future I needed to add zerks. The best place to add them was right on the steel shifting forks. Since these forks are only about 5mm wide I turned up some short 3/8 diameter pieces of steel, drilled 3/32 through, and then drilled and tapped for 1/4-28 for the zerks. I welded these pieces to the 5mm steel and used the 3/32 holes as pilot holes to drill through the center of the 5mm steel into the bushings that rotate around the shaft that the whole shifter linkage rides on. Now I can, and did, grease everything. I finally got the heim joint and ball joint for the power steering cylinder I bought and it looks like I may actually get the power steering done this week. My back is bad and is fusing itself, some sort of genetic condition. Apparently it happens in phases and it flared up recently which has prevented me from working on anything at all. But it started feeling a little better this morning so I will be in the machine shop tomorrow working on the power steering. In between all this work I have been working the tractor too. The ground is finally getting dry enough for me to start tilling so maybe this week, if my back lets me, tilling can start again.
Cheers,
Eric

 

[clemsonfor]

Eric,

Generally we flush the hydraulics with diesel. I filled mine about 80% or just over 2/3rds full. Drive the machine around for about 10mins and then drained.

Hydraulic Fluid Change

If you can drain 1-quart of engine oil and then add 1-quart of diesel, then start the tractor from a cold engine, let it run at 1,500rpms for 10 to 15 mins. This is basically a Gunk Motor Flush, but using diesel. Should you do this technique, be sure to also change the oil filter.

Hydraulic fluid is any fluid meeting the J20C specification, not being 'compatible' to the specification. At present there are a few class action lawsuits over the 'compatible' which is a marketing ploy and has no merits to mean equal nor better.

If you can find Yanmar TF500A, you found John Deere J20C in a Yanmar bottle.
View attachment 741242

Engine oil for the Yanmar 2T, 3T and 4T engines per the Yanmar website.

View attachment 741243

John Deere for the 50 Series of Yanmar made machines.

View attachment 741244


Oil filter needs to have a blow-by should the filter become totally clogged. Not sense risking a stopped up oil filter to starve the engine. Filter needs to be no value less than the mid-20 micro media level, UNLESS you go with a taller filter. The taller filter allows better oil flow as the filter fills up each and every use. If you have a loader or other item in the way, make considerations on just how tall of a filter you can run with.

Hoye and Fredricks have the correct height air filters. Other distributors are using the generics that 'could' fit and allows some dirty air leakage. IF you do go with a 3rd party air filter, be sure to also buy 3/8-inch thick neoprene closed cell pad and cut it to shape to fit the gap. Neoprene closed-cell pad material is the same stuff Dr. Scholl's shoe inserts are made from.

If you are going to this trouble of a tune up, also SeaFoam thru the fuel tank. Follow the directions on the bottle.

Follow the ops manual and grease all the zerk fittings too. There should be about 20-ish for 2WD and about a dozen more for 4WD. Yes, crawl under the tractor and look up too. They are everywhere.

Which model has 20zerks for a 2wd!!!??? I swear my 2000 has like half that?

 

[careyo63]

Just Greased mine I'm sure 7. With most on the Front and 2 on the Pedals. I was on Yard patrol Yesterday.