Have a look at the string "A Question For Those Who Built Their Own Toothbar" under the BUILD IT YOURSELF room. Here's a C&P covering one source:
The teeth on mine are almost parallel with the bottom of the bucket. They are slightly lower than the cutting edge. The sketch in my previous post is fairly close to how it looks. Works fine. The only operations I've had better luck without the bar is scooping up crushed stone. It works best for me to remove the bar so the factory cutting edge slips under the edge of the pile.
Stopped at Binkley & Hurst this AM and got the following info:
Weld-on bases for teeth = 12L6DW-8-2A-H..........$9.95/ea
Replaceable teeth for above = T41166................$3.08/ea
Roll Pin = 38-32028...........................................$0.79/ea
The bases listed above are already drilled for the roll pins, but the larger ones I saw were not. The roll pins on mine fit very tight. You'd best assemble the base/tooth/pin before welding. You really need to smack the beejiminy out of them to get the roll pin in. As another poster noted, it would be a job to work between the teeth with a hammer. Good luck, let us know how it goes. Any? just ask.
When you grab something that doesn't want to move, there is a cosiderable force exerted on the metal the shank is welded to, so you might consider reinforcing the cutting edge if it isn't real beefy..........chim