Where do I buy grease fittings?

[Jay4200]

I'd like to replace all of the grease fittings on my Kubota tractor. I hit the local discount stores and Autozone, but couldn't find any - Autozone had little assortments, but all SAE. I need to buy a 50-pack of the same fitting, but don't have a clue of where to go. And no, I haven't checked the tractor store - it's not very convienient to get to - just looking for an alternative that won't require driving 50 miles.

Jay

 

[RoyJackson]

Just because they were SAE, doesn't mean they wouldn't fit. SAE can be an American thread (1/8th NPT, if I recall), or a metric (I don't know metric pipe thread sizes).

However, most zerk fittings are pretty standardized. I'd pull one out of your tractor to take to Autozone for comparison purposes.

 

[RonR]

Jay,

Am I missing something???? Why do you want/need to replace all your zerks?

Did someone say it was important???????????

ron

 

[Farwell]

Remove one of your grease fittings and take it to your local NAPA dealer.
I purchased three different sizes from the discount stores and none fit because I did not take the one I needed with me. On one, I had the right size but wrong thread.
If all else fails visit your Kubota dealer.
If you are changing all your fittings there must be some reason that I am not aware of. I have a 1965 JD and the only grease fittings that have needed changed were damaged by getting hit by something while working.
A grease fitting cleaner is available that will open up clogged fittings. I do not have one and have never used one but they are available.
You are lucky that you only have to drive 50 miles to your dealer, everything in my area of Michigan is almost a day trip except for the local Kubota dealer and he is about 7 miles away.
Farwell

 

[MadReferee]

American fittings come in 2 common thread sizes, the smaller ones are 1/4"-28 thread and are the most common. The larger ones are 1/8"-27 NPT thread. Both have the same size zerk end.

Common metric size threads are 6mm, 8mm and 10mm. All use the same size zerk end.

All 5 sizes should be available at any good hardware store (Servi-Star in Milford for example) or even at one of the box stores. Harbor Freight also sells American and metric kits with several types of zerk ends (straight, 45 deg and 90 deg) and all 5 of the common thread end sizes. Each set is less than $5. Of course if you are drilling your own hole you will need the proper tap for each size.

If you're looking for quantities then I would go right to McMaster-Carr. In quantities they will be cheaper than anywhere else.

 

[daTeacha]

I had a broken one on the B7100. Wrenched it out, took it to the dealer, and he had several different sizes and angles to choose from. I think he charged about 50 cents for the thing.

Do you need to change the zerks whenever you remove and replace the air in the tires? I've heard of rotating them, but not replacing them all. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Jay4200]

</font><font color="blueclass=small">( Am I missing something???? Why do you want/need to replace all your zerks?
Did someone say it was important???????????)</font>

I don't get it.

I have several damaged zerks - some leak back out of the bitty hole, some don't take grease, and at least one is mashed such that if you ever got your grease gun on it, you'd never ever get it off. I'd say that at least half on my backhoe are junk, and probably a similar ratio on the rest of the tractor. Zerks are cheap, so I figured that it would be way easier to simply buy a pile of them and change all of the fittings, rather than screw around with questionable hardware. I'm not a big fan of questionable hardware.

Jay

 

[Jay4200]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Common metric size threads are 6mm, 8mm and 10mm. All use the same size zerk end.)</font>

They're metric - Kubota and all. Of the ones I messed with, about half used an 7mm wrench and half used an 8mm. They looked to have the same threads - almost looked like a previous owner changed out fittings periodically with ones that were slightly different but fit correctly. I'm not entirely sure, however, I'll be sure to take a few out and compare.

Thanks for the McMaster-Carr link. I checked it out and zerks are about 30 cents. While looking at the zerk page, however, it became instantly apparent that I will never know exactly what thread I need, since there are at least 4 thread types that look just about identical. Seems like replacing the fittings with the proper ones is going to be a crap shoot.

I'll hit the local hardware store next.

Jay

 

[RoyJackson]

"Do you need to change the zerks whenever you remove and replace the air in the tires? I've heard of rotating them, but not replacing them all."

I'm not sure what you mean here... There are no zerk fittings on a wheel or tire. Are you thinking of the valve cores? If that's the case (meaning valve cores), I only replace them if I lose them. They can get buggered up if you operate your tractor with valve caps on the stems.

As far as the original thread topic...I replace zerk fittings if I break one or can't get grease through it.

Both zerks and valve cores are cheap enough to keep a ½ dozen or so handy.

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( some leak back out of the bitty hole, some don't take grease, )</font>
Regarding these two statements.
I've never seen a zerk yet that won't back grease out when the cavity is over full. Still gets the grease in, and stops letting it out when the pressure equalizes, no replacement needed.

When a zerk won't take grease, you can often move, turn etc. whatever it is your trying to grease, and then grease will go in.
For example. Trying to grease my bucket zerks on the FEL, I often have to reposition the bucket from full curl to full dump to get one or another zerk to take grease. Once moved, the zerk takes grease fine.

Some cavites require such a very small amount of grease, (such as the pivot on your front axle) that it may seem you didn't get any in at all.

John