I JUST RECEIVED MY NEW TRACTOR AND LOADER AND IT HAS A DIFFERENT SETUP ON IT THAN MY OLDER ONE. I NOW A BALLAST BOX AND I FILLED UP WITH SACKRETE. IF SOMEONE COULD HELP ME OUT. WHERE DO I GET THE BEST COUNTERBALANCE FOR THE FEL. WHERE IS THE BEST POSITION TO HAVE THE BOX, CLOSEST TO THE GROUND, UP AS HIGH MY 3PT. WILL LIFT IT, IN THE MIDDLE, OR DOES IT EVEN MATTER WHERE IT IS? I WOULD APPRECIATE IF YOU GUYS WOULD EDUCATE ME. THANKS ALOT!!!!!
WHERE DO I THE MOST DISTRIBUTION?
- Thread starter flemdog
- Start date
- Views: 848
ronjhall
Super Star Member
flemdog
I keep my weight box about 12" off the ground. That gives box enough clearance when backing up the incline into the barn that box will not drag on the ground.
Set the control stop so that you do not accidentally hit the control and drop the box to the ground.
When not using the tractor. Lower the box to the ground. This will keep the load off the 3PH hydraulics.
Even with the box attached be very careful going over rough or inclineded ground. It can cause a rollervoer or at least check your PUCKER POWER. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
Here is a thread on Ballast. Click Here
I keep my weight box about 12" off the ground. That gives box enough clearance when backing up the incline into the barn that box will not drag on the ground.
Set the control stop so that you do not accidentally hit the control and drop the box to the ground.
When not using the tractor. Lower the box to the ground. This will keep the load off the 3PH hydraulics.
Even with the box attached be very careful going over rough or inclineded ground. It can cause a rollervoer or at least check your PUCKER POWER. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
Here is a thread on Ballast. Click Here
higgy
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2003
- Messages
- 590
- Location
- mid-south idaho
- Tractor
- Kuota L3130, Ford 9-n, Allis AC, and a JD 4020 with powershift
That rule works for any weight on any machine. Keep the CG as low as possible and still complete the work.
normde2001
Elite Member
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2002
- Messages
- 4,163
I would recommend a set of stay chains to support the weightbox at a steady level and keep unnecessary strain off your 3 pt lift. You will need 2 sets. I got mine here.
SPIKER
Elite Member
Norm:
what do you mean by "STAY chains" ?
the best one I've seen is set up with a pipe, that was welded into a large dia pipe, (I think it was a hunk of 1.25" sch 40 welded to a section of 24" sch 80 both of which were about 30" long, (just enough to get the 3pt links into it.)) so that it looked like a hole running through the big pipe right along it's edge. they then took and blocked off one end of the 24" pipe and filled it full of concrete and put a plate over the end they filled it from. (left the 1.25" pipe open all way through.) then ran a 7/8" bar all the way through the 1.25" pipe so that it could rock back and forth if they drug the dirt it would roll up & over the spot it drug into... sure looked like it was made form junk yard scrap. but was sure heavy! lol. (oh I think they may have had some washers either welded onto the 7/8" bar or was just loose fit to keep the pipe centered on the 7/8" mounting pin. and drilled the ends for the linch pins.
I think you could build it same way but don't really think the extra hunk of pipe (the 1.25") is needed and just weld the 7/8" bar to the side wall of the 24" pipe. the biggest prob would be bending the bar then you would be stuck welding on a NEW bar someplace on the outside of the 24"... it would still piviot on the 3pt lift arms. but the rocking may cause some wear there????
Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
what do you mean by "STAY chains" ?
the best one I've seen is set up with a pipe, that was welded into a large dia pipe, (I think it was a hunk of 1.25" sch 40 welded to a section of 24" sch 80 both of which were about 30" long, (just enough to get the 3pt links into it.)) so that it looked like a hole running through the big pipe right along it's edge. they then took and blocked off one end of the 24" pipe and filled it full of concrete and put a plate over the end they filled it from. (left the 1.25" pipe open all way through.) then ran a 7/8" bar all the way through the 1.25" pipe so that it could rock back and forth if they drug the dirt it would roll up & over the spot it drug into... sure looked like it was made form junk yard scrap. but was sure heavy! lol. (oh I think they may have had some washers either welded onto the 7/8" bar or was just loose fit to keep the pipe centered on the 7/8" mounting pin. and drilled the ends for the linch pins.
I think you could build it same way but don't really think the extra hunk of pipe (the 1.25") is needed and just weld the 7/8" bar to the side wall of the 24" pipe. the biggest prob would be bending the bar then you would be stuck welding on a NEW bar someplace on the outside of the 24"... it would still piviot on the 3pt lift arms. but the rocking may cause some wear there????
Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
