Justaplain
Gold Member
Keep the pole demensions short, it is a lot easier to cut 6-8" off a 2-by than to get out the plank stretcher, same for tin. bcs
Where to measure pole barn dimesions?
- Thread starter Mosey
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Spencer
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- NH TC33D w/R4 Tires, Rear Remote, Hydraulic Toplink, 2 Auxiliary Work Lights, 7308 Loader w/Kasco Uni-Hitch (Quick Tach)
Mosey, you generally want the posts to be spaced 96" on centers. When you get to the corner you want the outside of the girt (the horizontal 2" by 4" or 2" by 6") to be 96" to the center of the post instead of the outside post to be 96" to the center. I'm sure that is hard to follow so I have attached a part of my plans that I made for my pole barn. This shows the two middle posts being 96" center to center and the corner posts being at 91.75". This way it measures exactly 32 feet from the outside of the girts on each side. I hope I have helped instead of confuse the issue. This is the way I understand that it should be done but then again this is my first pole barn.
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Charlie_in_TX
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My experience is slightly different than the others. My barn is 39'x39' rough dim. The seathing is similar to 'R' panel. One panel is 3' 1.5". With 1.5" overlap the next is 6' 1.5" ect out to 39' 1.5". The corner metal covers 6" on each side, however it needs to come on the opposite side of the ridge, so it will cover 4". So the max dim to the outside of the girts is 39' 9.5". I made it 39' 6".
If you use a different sheathing you will need to do the math for it.
If you use a different sheathing you will need to do the math for it.
NIXON
Veteran Member
Yup! 23'9" You need to take into account the width of the girts . (2x4 's ) 1 1/2 " thick . 3 1/2" wide .
I do it for a living, and there has been a time or two when my brain faded
All the best , John
PS if you can afford it don't use nails ..... use screws(with a rubber washer ) also don't drive the screws (or nail )for that matter so far in that they totally crush the washer . You just want the washer to expand a bit larger than the head of the screw . Too loose you get leaks NOW...... Too tight you get leaks when things move a bit . Also , most metal siding is 36" from the CENTER of the first high rib to the Center of the last rib . The rib with the bit of a flat land 1/4' or so is the under lap side .
I do it for a living, and there has been a time or two when my brain faded
All the best , JohnPS if you can afford it don't use nails ..... use screws(with a rubber washer ) also don't drive the screws (or nail )for that matter so far in that they totally crush the washer . You just want the washer to expand a bit larger than the head of the screw . Too loose you get leaks NOW...... Too tight you get leaks when things move a bit . Also , most metal siding is 36" from the CENTER of the first high rib to the Center of the last rib . The rib with the bit of a flat land 1/4' or so is the under lap side .
DougM
Gold Member
If You measure out side to out side of the posts to the width
you want the big problem then be comes ***
Your standard size trusses will not work with out cutting
the header Been there and done that.
Doug
you want the big problem then be comes ***
Your standard size trusses will not work with out cutting
the header Been there and done that.
Doug
