Which Chainsaw ?

   / Which Chainsaw ? #61  
Got to use the saw today on about a 35-40'' tree that fell several months back. I can say that, this saw loves to eat trees.Went through this tree like a butter knife through hot butter ! This things really throws out the shavings.I've never had anything eat through a tree like this.I'm amazed to say the least ! I was concerned about the weight of the saw and, thought I would give out/tired after using it.LD1 was right when he said, The saw would be in my hands less time vs using a lighter less powerfull saw.

This is an ALESOME SAW!!

Glad you like it, wait till you get some time on it and it breaks in. It takes about 10-15 tanks of fuel or about 1 chain to get them to loosen up then they run like a scalded cat. Don't forget tighten your muffler and housing bolts after the first few tanks of fuel. Tighten the muffler with the saw hot and you will never have to touch it again. [Until you mod it!] CJ
 
   / Which Chainsaw ? #62  
Got to use the saw today on about a 35-40'' tree that fell several months back. I can say that, this saw loves to eat trees.Went through this tree like a butter knife through hot butter ! This things really throws out the shavings.I've never had anything eat through a tree like this.I'm amazed to say the least ! I was concerned about the weight of the saw and, thought I would give out/tired after using it.LD1 was right when he said, The saw would be in my hands less time vs using a lighter less powerfull saw.

This is an ALESOME SAW!!

Yep indeed. Most people don't realize what a huge difference there is between a 50 cc saw and a 70cc saw until they actually run one
 
   / Which Chainsaw ? #63  
Cutting up (bucking) and limbing are two different things. A saw one uses all day every day simply becomes an attachment where you get used to any weight. For the occasional user where a larger saw is being supported in a cut as opposed to wheeling around for limbing is where you'll notice a difference and if crossing a certain fatigue threshold, quite the danger.
 
   / Which Chainsaw ? #64  
i would get the 372xp i had 3 of them be ware of the muffler bolts coming loose when that happens lock tite them back in the 372 is 5.3 hp it will sream with a 20'' bar on it
 
   / Which Chainsaw ? #65  
Didn't have time to read through 7 pages of posts, so forgive if this has been covered....

The main functional consideration is bar length and chain speed. The decision should be driven by your type and amount of use. If you're going to be doing alot of limbing and/or brush work with it, you want very high chain speed...also longer bar length to save your back. People often focus on needing to cut larger diameter material, but do evaluate the frequency you'll actually be doing that....there are ways to make smaller saws cut bigger wood (e.g. plunge cuts) that can prevent you from buying too much saw if you're not going to cut that sized material very often. That said, those types of techniques can be a bit advanced (and dangerous) which is a bit of a catch-22 if you're not cutting material of that size very often (b/c you won't get much practice for the more advanced techniques).

I've had a 460 (mine is the non-"rancher" model) with a 24" bar for about 5 or 6 years now. I've also used the same saw on the fireline. They're a good saw and have held-up well. It is the smallest powerhead I would use with a 24" bar...the chainspeed can be a little slow at times, particularly for large-diameter work. I suspect it would work very nicely for a 20" bar, but I have no use for something that size. However, if you understand the limitations, you can plan your work accordingly.

I've used a 359XP at work for my goto saw for about 10 years now. If you can find a used one, I highly recommend it. Way better acceleration and top-end power than a 460. By contrast, I understand that Husqy now makes a "359" without the XP designator that has had some problems...I would not recommend one of these.

I've used 372s with 28" bars and larger at work. They are a comparative monster. You can literally step-up to a 24"-30" tree (mostly red fir, p-pine, or oak in my parts) and get after it without having to back the bar off a single time (assumes sharp chain, tuned to elevation, no weird tension, etc). As I think you mentioned, though, the 372 is heavier.

There really is no comparison between the a 460 and a 372. I'm a big fan of saws in the weight class of a 60cc +/-....if I were to buy any saw right now and money were no object, I'd go with the 562XP. Haven't run one, but am intrigued by the potential to run a 28" bar on a saw that size.

The main decision point is cost. The 562 is half-again as much as a 460.

Have fun. Be safe.

Will
 
   / Which Chainsaw ?
  • Thread Starter
#66  
The 562 weights 13 lbs. The 372 weighs 13.4 lbs. The 372 wasn't much heavier than the 562, but much more cc & hp. That's why I went with the 372. I'm happy with it
 
   / Which Chainsaw ? #67  
You cant go by paper specs or what a dealer tells you. The 372 is just over 14lbs PHO dry. The 562 is under 13lbs dry PHO.

I like the 372's too. 70.7cc to 74.66cc.

562 12lbs 12.8oz which translates to 12.8lbs
c66e6577.jpg


372 14lbs 2.1oz
137564870.jpg
 
   / Which Chainsaw ?
  • Thread Starter
#68  
Ain't that something ! I went by husky's web site as to the weight of each saw.They should change their specs on the site.
 
   / Which Chainsaw ? #69  
I have both. 346xp and a 372xp both fantastic saws they still make both I run a 16" bar on the 346 and 24" on 372 like most others have said 372 is a little heAvy but it rips right through anything
 
   / Which Chainsaw ? #70  
Yep indeed. Most people don't realize what a huge difference there is between a 50 cc saw and a 70cc saw until they actually run one

Very, very true. However, I still grab my 50cc for most cuts. But I'm more of a farm maintenance cutter these days. The farms do have a lot of big trees so I keep a 70cc on hand. I don't do pro work anymore.
 
 
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