WHICH COMPACT TRACTOR

[Meals]

Hi,
I am just starting the search for a Compact Tractor. Not sure if I should be looking new or used. Any info and knowledge on which way to go would be great.
I am looking to..

*Spend $20'000 or less... a little more depending on attachments etc.
*Loader
*Front Mount Snowblower
*I am thinking NO mower deck... since I mow around alot of trees etc.
*Brush Hog
*Am I better off with Turf Tires even tho I will be not using it for mowing? It will be used in the wood alot.

Thanks for your input.

 

[jeff9366]

Please add your location to your T-B-N PROFILE. Your location informs us of your climate, soil and altitude with every post.


How much tractor accessible land will you be working? Is your land flat, sloped, steep?

How long is the road/drive you need to clear of snow?

How many acres of grass?

Is snowplowing and mowing "it" for tractor applications?

How much pressure is on your time?



The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to list your tasks first, then determine bare tractor weight needed to safely accomplish your tasks. The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Heavier tractor chassis weight is more important for most tractor operations than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, bare tractor weight must increase 50% before you notice a significant tractor capability increase. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range. I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

Most tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight operate in residential or hobby farm applications on one to ten flat acres. Subcompact and compact tractors under 3,000 pounds will enter a residential garage with typical 84" door height.

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is generally greater than depreciation on a tractor.

Heavier tractors are built on larger frames with larger wheels/tires. A heavier tractor with large diameter tires has more tractive power pulling ground contact implements, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Larger wheels and tires increase ground clearance, enabling a heavier tractor to bridge holes, ruts and downed tree limbs with less bucking and disturbance operating over rough pasture and woodland.


A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Almost every new tractor is delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment. Dealer proximity is less important to those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.​

 

[mddorange]

:welcome:
To TBN Meals. You came to the right place as we love to spend other people's money.

Jeff gave you some good points to consider.

AG tires give you better traction and if you are going to be using it in the woods a lot, then I would think that the better traction would be better.

 

[majorwager]

Disclosing a member's location is not required. Some folks prefer to omit this information and it does NOT impact replies.

There have been a number of posts that have pushed back against jeffy's buy too much tractor mantra. Many members have purchased smaller compact tractors and been very satisfied with their performance. $ Cost per pound is generally relative when tractor shopping in a grocery store. Beyond silly !!

Below is an excellent thread worth the effort to read and digest.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/mahindra-owning-operating/398161-mahindra-max-26xl-hst-new.html


The thread below is rather lengthy but offers a variety of perspectives. The reference above remains the preferable choice of reference.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...32-guide-shopping-sizing-tractor-version.html

 

[dodge man]

In Kubota I’d say you woukd be looking at the BX or B line and maybe the 25 hp L model, but I don’t think it will take a front mount snow blower. If your thinking used it just depends on how used you want. I’d rethink the front mount blower, just because of cost. The rear mounts cost less and are easier to mount. If you do get a lot of snow, a front mount is the way to go.

 

[Texasmark]

Answering this is a crap shoot. We are all different and have different situations. I've been trying to learn how to farm for 40 years and I still don't know how to do it. I have probably had a couple of dozen tractors in that time from the smallest to 100 PTO hp, most of the colors in the rainbow. What works for me may or may not work for you. The tractor that excels in my work arena may be totally unsuitable for you in yours.

As you can see, I currently have 5 with the '88 Ford having just purchased. When haying I use all of them simultaneously. I have them set up for specific functions at which they excel. I specifically bought that model/brand to run my hay cutter when haying and a 3 PT disc harrow at certain times of the year when the soil is forgiving. I bought it because it's smaller, yet powerful, easy steering and excellent handling with a fast, strong, 3 pt where I can maneuver it easily between my plowed area and the fences when making U turns.

The 2400 was purchased for small jobs around the farm, little jobs that needed what it offers but had to be small to get in to the places needing attention and light weight for places I don't want to compress the turf/soil. The FEL was a must.

The Branson site has color comparisons where you can lineup popular tractors and see which has what.

On tires, Ag., F1, Bar lug type, can't be beat for traction.

Personally I find Industrial, F3 tires useless for my applications: From "Tires-Easy.com" a very true comment: "F-3 tractor tires are an all purpose farm/agriculture tire or industrial tire. Designed for heavy carrying capacity and mild traction". Yes on the carrying capacity, stiff sidewalls and all but lousy traction in soft soils when compared to Ag. If you are just going to mow grass and do utility work, like cleaning poop out of animal confined areas, fine. Going to do some serious plowing or drag heavy logs, pull log carts out of the woods, forget it......Opinion based on BTDT.

My 2400 came with Industrials and I converted the rears to trufs, F4s. Got the same traction but a softer ride and more flotation when I didn't want the tractor to sink, like when running a smoothing harrow over a freshly prepared seed bed field which is one of the other uses of the small tractor. So that is my experience with turfs on a tractor.

HTH,
Mark

 

[art]

To make a good recommendation there is more information needed. Acres? driveway size? Lawn size? woods area? Brush hog area? Weather? Overall industrial tires might be your best recommendation for mixed use. Small might take you a few more trips but part of the fun of a tractor is using it if you buy the right one!!!

 

[prof fate]

brush hog what? Different widths need different HP on the tractor. There are ligher duty and heavier duty depending on what you're mosing (grass/pasture vs heavy brush/small trees)

Snow blow what? surface type, size/length of drive/parking lot, area you live in (2" snow falls with 10" now and then, or 6-10 more often and bigger now and then?) Maybe a blade would be a better option?

Turf are nicer to yards and better in snow than R4. R4 is way better in mud though.

 

[Milo]

You clearly list the tasks you want to accomplish, I kind of agree with Jeff that listing your location when posing questions is helpful, or just add a general location in your profile. Also some idea of quantity..... how much area and how often you anticipate brush hogging, snow blowing, and general loader tasks.

Given what you want, in the Kubota line, a B2650 might do everything you need. It has a center PTO for a front blower, can run a light duty 5' rotary cutter (I actually pull a medium duty 5' with it), and has a quick attach, smooth operating loader, with either 54" or 60" bucket. With a front blower it will probably be a little bit over $20k though.

I've used Industrial R4 as well as Turf R3 tires and prefer turfs for *my* uses because I find they're easier on grass, have better traction on side slopes, and on snow. Not as good in mud though.