I've 4 Stihls, an 021, 660, 660, 088. 2 Efco's - 35cc, 62cc. The EFCO's are with me because the 35cc was new w/ 2 chains for $50 and I won the 62CC at Arborist Site.
All the Stihls run like a top. To me the most important thing is DON'T use ethanol gas.
yes, yes - i have the original 026, but didn't want to confuse the OP with older model designations.
Yet you confuse us all
They did have a 271, but it's 12.3 lbs, the heaviest of them all (250, 291, 261)
Some saws are heavier because of build. I'd rather carry an extra pound or so than have to buy another saw halfway thru a tree. The one problem with buying a Stihl Pro saw is with minimal maintenance they NEVER seem to wear out. I can't use the excuse the saw won't start.
So now a counter opinion bound to agitate everyone...
Buy a big box store saw, 50cc ish for a under $200. Use the crap out of it. Then decide if you need a pro level saw. My little poulan from HD has been a killer bargain and if you put good chain on it cuts about like what you've described your going to use it for. Don't get me wrong, there's a place for a pro level saw, I have a couple, but if your not making a living with it, or clearing a ton of lumber on a regular basis its probably overkill.
I subscribe to the multiple saw theorys.
First of all ALWAYS have 2 saws (one may even be just a bow saw) so you can get the first saw unstuck when it gets pinched.
A cheap BB store saw might do as the second saw, if you have a bow saw or axe handy.
Three saw theory:
Have 3 saws, one small for limbing, one medium (50CC) for bucking, one big (90CC} for taking down the big tree. Here a cheap 50CC BB saw works in better because you never REALLY need it so you don't have to rely on it.
I have a line on a used 260 and 028, so I'll see if they pan out. If not, I may just grab the 250.
If they are GOOD go for it.
Get a Stihl. I got a MS310. Used on ebay. Also have a Poulan pro 245. Have had to do more repairs to the Poulan. Pull cord broke, recoil spring came off, brake fell apart, auto oiler broke. I repaired and paid for all the parts. So I still use the Poulan but it will break again and I will not repair it. The Stihl works harder has needed oil and gas and that's it. I will never buy anything but a stihl from now on. But I think it is going to be awhile before it needs replacing. Both saws start easily also. :thumbsup:
Best advice that took me 20 years to figure out. Read up on how to sharpen the chain, I read the Oregon instructions that come with every chain. Get a sharpening jig (granberg) that will hold the angle and tilt required for specific size chain. Once I did these seemingly simple steps everything worked better. A sharp chain is a safe chain.
Bottom line get a solid saw or learn how to repair your Poulan.
I bought my 3 bigger Stihls used. I've had to repair my first Stihl 660 with a pull cord. I upgraded one 660 w/ a Dual Port (DP) muffler. The other had a port by Brad Snelling and a mild muff mod.
The EPA or someone has apparently made regulations for saws. Some mfg's responded by tuning saws, Stihl responded at first by slapping a muffler on them and decreasing the chain oiling. My 660's went from Clark Kent to Superman w/ the muffler mods and a high output oiler. In Australia they are SOLD with the DP muffler and high output oiler.
As DB wrote a SHARP chain makes a big difference. When I milled I tended to do a "touchup" about every 10'.
Sharp chain, no ethanol, plenty of oil makes for a long lasting chainsaw.
/edit - I've got the 088, a 120CC saw, because it was ALMOST new and came w/$200 worth of extras for $450. Couldn't pass it up.
