Which model?

[AStanton]

I would tell you to get a B or even an L. If you go into the weeds with a BX, you will need underbody armor.

 

[motownbrowne]

Well, tractordata.com doesn't list the speeds for the early 4 cylinder 4000 series. I'm thinking that it's gonna be similar to the 800 series, which shows first gear at 2.3 MPH. I've run a 4' tiller behind an 8n, which is way too fast at 3.7 and doesn't have enough HP. I'd think the 4000 would be worth a shot with the 6'. Worse comes to worse, you'll have to make multiple passes. Also, as someone suggested, maybe a disc and drag harrow would be better. Certainly cheaper.

Personally, if I was buying a tractor just for food plots, a new Kubota wouldn't be on the list. Maybe a Deere 3020, or something like that. There's even a used 5040 Kubota with a cab on our local Craigslist. 700 hours and 17,000. 2wd and no loader. That'd put in some food plots for less than any new Kubota. To me, the appeal of buying new is getting 4wd and a loader, but you don't need that to run a tiller.

 

[momark54]

Well, if I bought a new(er) tractor I would like to get a FL and 4wd since I'm not only using it for foodplotting. Foodplotting and brushhogging would be the two main uses but with 50acres of ground could use it for anything that comes up. Just want to make sure the tractor has the guts to handle the 6'tiller which would probably be the toughest task for it. Maybe the 5' bushhog is tougher on it, but either way want to make sure I have enough tractor without going way over the top.

 

[Mike from MI]

My manual for L3200 states 54" tiller in the implement limitations section.

 

[oldballs]

Using your criterion of 6 ft tiller and 5 ft brushog and 50 acres of maintenance , i'd be looking at the "L" series as minimum. The largest "B" series could do it, but would grunt a lot. :2cents:

 

[nybirdman]

No tiller is going to work well on freshly brush-hogged land.I would suggest working up with a "middle buster" type single bottom plow first.I have reclaimed a lot of mine this way but it's a lot of work.

 

[momark54]

When I say brushhogged I'm talking about a field with herbaceous growth only, no woody sprouts. Would a tiller not work well on this?

 

[motownbrowne]

When I say brushhogged I'm talking about a field with herbaceous growth only, no woody sprouts. Would a tiller not work well on this?

It works, but usually not in the first pass. I think the best results are achieved by tilling virgin sod three times, with about 10 days between each tilling. Yes, this takes three weeks, but it works well to achieve a seed bed and kill the previous growth. If you're tilling in a cover crop (not virgin soil,) you may only need two tillings depending on the crop you're planting and what you're tilling in. You may be able to achieve a good looking seedbed in one pass by going very slowly, but by spacing it out, you'll end up with less residual growth from the previous vegetation.

 

[momark54]

Most of the time I would be tilling areas that have been in food plots for years now, so not virgin soil. And most of the time I would only want to till 2-3 ins. deep so hoping it would work sometimes in one pass. I have been using a 3pt disc and it takes many passes to bust up thick vegetation, especially grasses. Hoping the tiller would do a better job. Doesn't have to be perfect just good seed to soil contact.

 

[motownbrowne]

That should work in one pass as far as creating a seedbed is concerned. Only reason for more passes would be to help kill the previous crop, but it sounds like you've been at this a while, do I'm sure you have an idea of what works with your soil and crops. Only thing I might add is that sometimes when tilling in standing grasses, the grass will wrap around the shaft that holds the times. This will require you to stop and remove the buildup if you want good tillage. I've also had the grass destroy the seal between the oil bath and the rotating shaft. It helps if you can mow the grass real short before tilling it with a rototiller.