Which Rotary Cutter for a MidChassis 4x10?

rockyridgefarm · Jan 11, 2004

OK, I am looking for a rotary cutter for my 4310 MFWD eHydro. I learned already that I need to be mowing with the loader removed. (too much front end wear with it in place) Now I thought the Bush Hog SQ94T looked nice, but there just seem to be too many complaints about it holding up. (it is a 7' dual spindle, weighs ~720Lbs. and requires 25Hp.)

So I'm lookind at the LX6 vs. MX5. I am cutting grass, weeds, blackberries and tiny saplings. Not heavy brush. I mow about 60 acres, to keep the weeds down, for my stock to have grass. There are several operators, all wanting seat time, so I don't need to go buy a bigger tractor, yet.

The LX6 will cut 20% more per pass. It will mow out my tracks and allow me to get up close to fences, etc. It doesn't have as clean a top, is lighter duty and may not cut nearly as fast as the MX5. It is ~$1325

The MX5 is HEAVY DUTY. (OK,its a medium duty) Literchure sounds like it is a fast cutter, due to it's design It's a nicer design, both top and bottem. It is narrower than my tracks. It is $1400.

Any ideas pro or con?

How about ballast? According to the manual, either requires more ballast than seems possible. We aren't brush cutting, so it won't be raised much.
Would there be any problem with loading the front tires to cut down on the number of suitcase weights?

RoyJackson · Jan 11, 2004

"I learned already that I need to be mowing with the loader removed. (too much front end wear with it in place)"

I believe you'll find the statement about mowing sans FEL was discussing lawn mowing where there are no obstacles to deal with (I mean hidden stuff in the weeds, not trees and other visible obstructions).

When I'm brush cutting, I leave the loader on as a counterweight to the rotary cutter. When I'm mowing the lawn, it's off. I mow the lawn a lot more often then I use the cutter.

Can't comment on either of the cutters you've mentioned. Before I bought my own cutter, I used a friend's older Deere brand (10 or 12 years old...don't remember the model number, but it was a 48" unit). That Deere unit was a great fit for my 670. Just couldn't talk the guy into selling it to me.

If you're going through stuff as shown in the attached picture, you'll want your loader on to knock it down a bit so you can see those hidden stumps and such.

As far as front weights...why not see how well the tractor picks the cutter up first. I've found I do not need weights for the RFM (~ 400 lbs), but the cutter (> 600 lbs) requires front ballast. My tractor weighs about 1800 lbs without the FEL. You 4310 weighs pretty close to 2700 lbs, I believe. As a percentage of weight (cutter to tractor), you may find you don't need front weights (although the FEL is recomended). I also normally just lift my cutter high enough to get the front off the ground (say, 10") leaving some of the weight on the cutter's tail wheel. So far, no problems, but I don't have more then 20 hours on the cutter.

I don't believe adding fluid to the front tires is recomended.

beenthere · Jan 11, 2004

I have a 5' rotary 513 on my Deere 4300, and it covers the wheel width just fine. Maybe you have Ag or turf tires and have them spaced wider. Myself, I wouldn't cut brush with turf tires, and prefer the R-4's for their ruggedness. Your profile says you have a 4' cutter, and that won't cover much.

As to the two rotary cutters, sans width, the MX5 should be the better, but with your light weight mowing plans, the LX6 should do very well for you too.

As per Roy, I leave the FEL on when rotary cutting, to find obstacles, clear overhead limbs, and move deadfalls. The loader will keep material out of the front grill when pushing through brush. Although, if its tough, I back into it to mow it down. Not sure where you had the 'learning' experience that told you to leave the FEL off, but I didn't learn that. Can't imagine it 'wears' the front end of a Deere. Their tough.

Good luck with your decision, as I think you could be happy with either one.

JackIL · Jan 11, 2004

The JD literature on the 4000 TEN series gives a recommendation of MX 5 with iMatch coupler or 613 with iMatch coupler. (The older 613 has been replaced with the LX series of light duty cutters.) The MX6 is not recommended for th 4310. I highly recommend the iMatch coupler. I have put one on my JD955 which is about the same power as the 4310 and it works great. It is well worth the $200.

I think I would prefer the MX5 in your situation with the acerage you will be mowing even though you won't be cutting brush--just tall grass and weeds.

As others have indicated, your overall tractor width should just fit within a 5 foot cut unless you have R-1 ag tires set to the widest possible tread width.

I think you will definitely need front suitcase weights or the loader on the front to be able to maintain safe steering with the cutter raised. There is certainly no problem about "hurting the front end" if you keep the loader on all of the time. Its just that when mowing turf around buildings and trees, it is more practical to remove the loader to provide for additional turning maneuverablity and to help prevent scuffing the turf when making sharp turns.

JackIL

RoyJackson · Jan 11, 2004

"There is certainly no problem about "hurting the front end" if you keep the loader on all of the time."

One of our TBN regulars whose business is tractors mentioned leaving the loader on all the time has caused premature wear in front end components.

That does make sense if the machine is used hard...frequent loader work and such. Now, I've known folks who never took their loaders off in years with no adverse effect. They weren't using the loader...just never took it off (one machine in particular was an 855 Deere).

I do leave mine off most of the time...most of the work is mowing, and the loader gets in the way when I mow.

rockyridgefarm · Jan 11, 2004

( unless you have R-1 ag tires set to the widest possible tread width )

Guilty as charged! That is a requirement for the hoe... I admit, the stabilty the wheel width privides is a real asset, with our crazy terrain! Outside width is ~65.5", one idea would be to dish in to where it'd be 59.5" - that doesn't seem like it'd be that tippy...

 The MX6 is not recommended for th 4310 
Right, but the LX6 is. It is 653 Lbs vs. 823 for the MX5 (wow)

 I highly recommend the iMatch coupler. I have put one on my JD955 which is about the same power as the 4310 and it works great. It is well worth the $200.

That's on my list! Thanks!

MikeInIdaho · Jan 12, 2004

I have a related question.

I have a JD 4710 with a 390 flail mower which works great for me but I was wondering what the benefit of a rotary cutter was over a flail mower and vice versa

mopar · Jan 12, 2004

hi,we got a king kutter 5' for our 4310 this past summer and its has worked fine.we have found no need for front weights at all with it.for the price difference we could not go with the deere stuff 600kk to 1200 or more deere, i could buy 2 kk.our needs are not heavy duty but more than 5' you will be going slow in heavy grass and thick brush with the 4310 if cutting low to the ground.

Kyle_in_Tex · Jan 14, 2004

Rockyridge, We have the same machine except I have R4's. I have a LX5 with a clutch. Make sure whatever you get has the clutch, our PTO's hit hard when you pull the yellow knob (even at idle). I personally am glad that my mower doesn't weigh a bunch. I drive between trees like a big weedeater. We use the bigger tractor when possible to cut the open areas. I have mowed the whole 26 acres with my 4310. 60 acres will take a while.
Here's the important scoop. When our coastal bermuda grass gets about a foot tall and thick, it can easily bog down our available HP(even my 5' LX5). I've tried with Loadmatch and yes it keeps it from bogging down, but it slows ground speed too much so I turn it off usually. I run the RPM's up to 2600 and let it bog down to about 1800 before I slow down. The HST is the best thing for mowing between thick and thin grass. no gear changes. I probably mow around 8-12 mph in optimum conditions. When I run out of HP, I slow down to a slow crawl.
Considering your tire width, I would probably go with the LX6. But you will wish you had more HP at times.
Oh yea, even the clutch models have a shear bolt. Due to the heavy shock load when turning on the PTO, I still shear low grade bolts about every 10-15 hours of cutting time. I keep a bag of spares...next to the ice chest full of cold frosty beverages...Kyle

bebster · Jan 14, 2004

I chose the MX5 for my 4410. The HP seems well matched to the cutter for most uses. I figured the MX5 would last a lot longer and hence be a better investment.

I've had no problem getting up close to something to cut it. In fact the opposite consideration comes into play -- if it were a 6' wide model I couldn't get into some of the tighter spots as easily.

As for ballast, it is back-end heavy without something in front. Use the FEL if there is heavier brush, as it will help knock it down. Otherwise, I put on 6 suitcase weights and it does just fine, plus the visibility is better. I'm still a bit nervous however going up a hill, so I cut backing up steeper hills mostly.

Bottom line, I think I made the right choice and have no regrets.