Which tractor for 40 acre homestead

[David72645]

My situation is similar to the OP with some differences. Rather than start a new thread, I'm going to post here to see if I should consider something other than what was recommended to the OP.

First, I'm new to tractors. I'm moving to a 60 acres in Arkansas. It will need to be fenced, so an auger would be needed. Many 10-20' trees need to come down and be chipped. I would like to clear some of the underbrush in the woods. Mobility is more important than brute force in the woods, I think. Keeping paths clear. May consider a log splitter. Trunks may need to be removed.

We will be improving pasture for sheep by broadcasting seeds. I may, but don't have to, move a few round bales in the barn, as bedding, not for feed. We hope rotational grazing will supply most of the sheeps' needs. May be moving manure from piles provided by alpaca/llamas to the garden in a dump-trailer.

There may be a gravel driveway to maintain. Perhaps it will be asphalt. I may be missing something that is needed, but I don't plan on major earthworks performed by me with this machine (like ponds or swales).

So far, I've only looked at Kubota. I'm thinking used, not new to save money. I'm aware of the basic differences from B, L, L-Grand, Mx and M. I will have a Kubota dealership about an hour and 15 minutes from me. I suspect I don't need B or M, but am probably in the L to Mx range. I don't want to get Mx just because of the occasional 1000 lb bale. Because I am new, I was thinking HST. I' expect I'll be in and out more than driving for long periods.

Any ideas, criticisms or help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Not having lived on this property and never having owned a tractor means I can't be more specific.

 

[jeff9366]

Please add ARKANSAS to your T-B-N PROFILE so your location shows in every post your author. Arkansas varies more than most states. A city would help your respondents understand your conditions.

How many of your 60 acres will you farm and how many will be woodland?


The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Heavier tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range. I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

Most tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight operate in residential or hobby farm applications on one to ten flat acres.

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a new, heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is generally greater than depreciation on a tractor.

Heavier tractors are constructed on larger frames and longer wheelbases. Heavier tractors are built with thicker steel to withstand greater stress. Heavier tractors have larger diameter wheels/tires, increasing ground clearance. Heavier tractors with large diameter wheels/tires have more tractive power pulling ground contact implements, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Larger wheels and tires permit heavier tractors to bridge holes, ruts and tree debris with less operator perturbation.

First, I'm new to tractors. I'm moving to a 60 acres in Arkansas.

1) Many 10-20' trees need to come down and be chipped. May consider a log splitter.

2) I would like to clear underbrush in the woods. Keep paths clear. Trunks may need to be moved.

So far, I've only looked at Kubota. I'm thinking used, not new to save money. I'm aware of the basic differences from B, L, L-Grand, Mx and M. I will have a Kubota dealership about an hour and 15 minutes from me.

3) I suspect I don't need B or M, but am probably in the L to Mx range. I don't want to get Mx just because of the occasional 1000 lb bale.

4) Because I am new, I was thinking HST. I expect I'll be in and out more than driving for long periods.

1) Chipping brush on sixty acres is an impossible aspiration. You will need several burn piles. Producing firewood makes some sense but it is not very economically rewarding considering the time it takes. Tractor hydraulic log splitters are complicated and slow. I suggest a 220 volt electric log splitter on wheels, which can be moved in and out of your garage or barn and used in the driveway. Trees 10' to 20' tall should not required much splitting, mostly cutting into billets with a quality chainsaw. PHOTO #1

2) Trail maintenance requires tractor weight. I recommend a bare tractor weight of at least 3,700 pounds. A Ratchet Rake bucket attachment is a basic trail maintenance attachment. PHOTO #2.
Tractors are designed to pull. Any tractor of 3,700 pounds or more will pull several 10' to 20' tree trunks at one time using chains connected to a rear/center drawbar or cross/drawbar. PHOTO #3 ~ Cross Drawbar with optional "hanging tree".

3) Kubota Grand Ls and MX series overlap in weight at 3,700 to 4,500 pounds, bare tractor weight. They have very similar capabilities with similar weight. The Grand Ls are de luxe tractors. The MX series are economy tractors. There are far, far more MX tractors sold, new and used, than Grand Ls. Loaders on new Grand L and MX tractors can lift more than 2,000 pounds.

About 90% of compact tractors are sold with HST transmissions. I encourage you toward HST, especially if you will operate your tractor on slopes.


A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Most new tractors are delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My Kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment after seven years. Dealer proximity is less important for those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.

May be moving manure from piles provided by alpaca/llamas to the garden in a dump-trailer.

There may be a gravel driveway to maintain. I don't plan on major earthworks.

Forget the trailer. Use the tractor Loader.
A 3,700 to 4,500 pound bare weight tractor will maintain gravel roads with ease. Ratchet Rake is excellent for light grading.


IMPLEMENTS: https://www.lsuagcenter.com/~/media...aa214276e14dacb/pub2917tractorimplements1.pdf

everything attachments videos - YouTube

Iowa Farm Equipment

 

[David72645]

Outside of Leslie Ar in the Ozarks. Plan to reclaim 20 acres to forest pasture mix. Will not be much farming, per se. Only chipping and logging will be to create trails and clearings. Do not plan to chip the whole thing, as you said, impossible. It sound like you would recommend the smallest used MX I can find. Would there be limits on age and hours? I know to look for a well-maintained used Mx.

 

[jeff9366]

It sound like you would recommend the smallest used MX I can find. Would there be limits on age and hours? I know to look for a well-maintained used Mx.

I recommend a tractor with a bare weight of 3,700 pounds to 4,500 pounds. There are many good tractor brands out there. Kubota is perhaps the best built today but you pay a 20% premium for the quality. I feel the premium is worth paying. Others differ.

MX Series are all the same weight, +/- 5%. Engine power is the key variable. Some MX are 2-WD, some 4-WD. You want 4-WD and a Loader.



Safe hillside operation demands more tractor weight than level land operation. Heavier tractors have adjustable rear wheel spreads; wide rear wheel spreads improve tractor stability more than any other variable.

Four wheel drive is essential on hillsides. Four wheel drive supplies increased traction and braking. When descending slopes 4-WD augments rear brakes as tractor weight shifts forward, decreasing rear tire grip.

Compact tractors optimized for hill work have liquid installed in the rear tires rather than air. "Loaded" tires are filled 50% to 75% with liquid, which lowers the tractor's center-of-gravity, increasing rollover resistance. "Loading" two compact tractor rear tires increases tractor weight 300 pounds to 800 pounds over weight of identical two tires inflated with air. Some prefer to ballast rear wheels with iron wheel weights rather than tire liquids.

When considering a tractor purchase, bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second and (narrowly) rear wheel ballast third.


VIDEO: How To Evaluate A Used Tractor - YouTube

Kubota Grand L Series VS. Kubota MX Series - YouTube

Kubota MX series walk around and features by Messicks. | MX48 MX52 MX58 - YouTube


Here are tractors for sale on eBay within 200 miles of zip code 72645:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/Business-I...c=1&_salic=1&_sop=12&_dmd=1&_ipg=200&_fosrp=1

 

[newbury]

<snip> Many 10-20' trees need to come down and be chipped. I would like to clear some of the underbrush in the woods. Mobility is more important than brute force in the woods, I think. Keeping paths clear. May consider a log splitter. Trunks may need to be removed.<snip>
Any ideas, criticisms or help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Not having lived on this property and never having owned a tractor means I can't be more specific.

First of all seriously consider burning and rotting versus chipping. I bought a 8" Jinma chipper about 2015 because AT THE TIME I was clearing a half acre 30 year overgrown lot of small trees and bamboo which would have required many weekends of renting a chipper. Burning was not an option in the city and paying for trash hauling was exorbitant. Plus I thought I might use it in the future. I feel it about paid for itself in the first 6 months, I've used it for about 10 or 20 hours since.

If I had it to do over again I'd probably do the same if I could find a good 8" chipper for $1600.

It's none of your business whether or not the poster puts his location in his profile.

I thought you were finally past this garbage, <snip>

David please excuse this ongoing fight. Most of TBN is not this bad.

 

[oosik]

I have 80 acres. A mile long gravel road, snow, logs & rocks to move, private landfill to maintain....... I did all the work, in the beginning, with a 26hp Ford 1700 4WD. Twenty seven years later, 2009, I traded the Ford in and got a Kubota M6040. Everything goes quicker and I can now move logs & rocks the size I want. I can actually move large logs now - I don't have to move them as firewood.

The M6040 is big enough to handle a really heavy duty grapple and very heavy duty rear blade. I'm FINALLY rid of the 3-point snow blower. I CAN now do summer maintenance on my driveway after it dries and turns to concrete.

Life is good.

 

[Egon]

Tractor for 40 acres:

As I take it there may be a budget involved and suggestions of a used tractor. The following pictures are from a few years ago of my Kubota B7100 working on our 68 acres of land in Nova Scotia. Access road, trails, trees removed and stones and logs dragged and snow removal. The little 16 HP tractor was put through its paces. The bucket bottom and cutting edges had to be rebuilt/replaced twice. At times there were chains on all four wheels. It spent about 2000 hours doing this type of work before being traded for a JD 4200.

 

[searcyfarms]

id get two tractors a smaller one and larger one, 20 to 25hp and 60hp minimum with some weight to it. there are tons of reasons why but one tractor will drive you crazy as it will be good for one thing but not great for the other stuff - you can do it with on but not as efficient and not w/out more frustration because of the limitations and size required for some tasks

 

[David72645]

I added my location. Thanks

 

[MossRoad]

Thread pruned. Please continue the original discussion.

David 72645, welcome to TBN.