3RRL
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2005
- Messages
- 6,931
- Tractor
- 55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I found a 1" long crack at one of the welds)</font>
All welds create stress on the parent material and if the ends of the crack are not pooled through, it may migrate further under stress from usage.
Besides "V-ing" out the crack, I've had great results with drilling a hole at the end of the crack to keep it from migrating further, removing a "sharp edge" there. Then weld the hole shut with circular welds and follow with filling the crack itself.
As for welding rod, use what you can handle to get good penetration and strength with as little heat as possible. This helps the overall strength of the weld and parent material. When selecting rods that are close close in tensile strength, I'd opt for better weld preparation and a rod that will give me penetration.
I's like the old golf commercials advertising Beryllium copper irons for "soft" feel. There is a diference on the Rockwell Hardness Scale (Rc), but you really can't tell the diference from hitting a golf ball.
Personally, I use my 330A Miller TIG welder with 410SS rod, Ø1/16 for repairs. That rod mingles well with most all metals from mild steel to tool steels. The weld comes out clean as a whistle. I realize most guys don't have a TIG in the shop so that may not be an option.
But like so may others said before me, prepare that weld area real good.
All welds create stress on the parent material and if the ends of the crack are not pooled through, it may migrate further under stress from usage.
Besides "V-ing" out the crack, I've had great results with drilling a hole at the end of the crack to keep it from migrating further, removing a "sharp edge" there. Then weld the hole shut with circular welds and follow with filling the crack itself.
As for welding rod, use what you can handle to get good penetration and strength with as little heat as possible. This helps the overall strength of the weld and parent material. When selecting rods that are close close in tensile strength, I'd opt for better weld preparation and a rod that will give me penetration.
I's like the old golf commercials advertising Beryllium copper irons for "soft" feel. There is a diference on the Rockwell Hardness Scale (Rc), but you really can't tell the diference from hitting a golf ball.
Personally, I use my 330A Miller TIG welder with 410SS rod, Ø1/16 for repairs. That rod mingles well with most all metals from mild steel to tool steels. The weld comes out clean as a whistle. I realize most guys don't have a TIG in the shop so that may not be an option.
But like so may others said before me, prepare that weld area real good.