did the mechanic actually look at a glass jar full or did he just have a tiny bit on his finger? There is no way to tell just by feel. When in doubt, do the change and clean out, instead of having an issue/worry.
RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
ideally, you will not have to keep refilling and wasting GOOD oil. that's why I gave the instructions I did. the alcohol in the mix will DISOLVE the water. water is polar.. alcohol is a polar solvent. thus water is carried out in soloution. the diesel thins the oil. what you have left in the sump will be very little water and some thinned oil.. if you refill it and then run the machine normally.. you stand a good chance of flashing the remaining moisture off... vs wasting another 5g pail of oil..
if you were just doing oil flushes.. yeah.... it will take a while to get it all out as it emulsifies..
What soundguy suggests. I went with the straight fluid flush and a handful of changes. I would suggest not going my route but using a solvent rather than hoping for an emulsion. I had a lot of water and now I see none but haven't tried a crackle test.
RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
i think a UOA for the gear oil in an 8n is quite comical...
It will be 100% noticable if it is clouded or emulsified..
the price of a good UOA will almost cover a cheap pail of utf oil that could be used as a flush.. or will totally cover the previous flushing agents I mentioned, and pay a lil towards the new oil going in.. thus rendering the question of 'if' a bit of moot point.