It takes hot heat to melt the plastic hoods used by Cub Cadet. I have a 1993 2084 Super Garden Tractor, plastic hood, side panels and grille. No problem since date of purchase. The unit has a 20 HP Kohler Command engine. I also do not experience the "Brown Spot" in yard if I leave the unit idling. Has Kohler changed the engine cooling air intake on the command engines to make the engines run hotter to comply with EPA regluations? It would be interesting to monitor the underhood heat being generated. This kind of heat has to shorten the life of the engine. Another reason to use synthetic oil.
White Spots on Hood
- Thread starter racemech
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I have looked at this from the engineering standpoint, and where the muffler is positioned in the 2500 series should be changed as far as I am concerned. I think they are putting it at the bottom just to get the narrow hood profile. I really don't think owners care if their hood profile is super-narrow, and the muffler should be located towards the top of the engine, within the fan cooling airflow, and the exhaust outlet should face straight out or slightly upward. This would elinminate any potential for grass burning underneath, which is also a fire hazard, and would also eliminate the backfire when the engine is shut off. This is 100% do-able with a V-Twin engine, while still keeping a fairly narrow front profile.
-Fordlords-
-Fordlords-
micman32
Gold Member
I am curious. Where is the muffler located on older Cubs? Is it mounted on the right side of the engine?
Most of the older Cubs, including most with Kohler K singles, Kohler KT boxer twins, and even some of the newer ones with Commands and Vanguards used an exhaust just like the one shown here on my Honda replacement engine, which is exactly the same way it was with the original Kohler KT twin. IMHO, it's the only right way to do it- the airflow off the engine cylinders cools the muffler through the shroud, then the heat exits through the grille. Cooling air inflow comes from the, "tunnel," located as a passage in front of the fan that takes in cool air from underneath the tractor.
-Fordlords-
http://www.tractorbynet.com/photos/data/524/25195100_0629-med.JPG
-Fordlords-
http://www.tractorbynet.com/photos/data/524/25195100_0629-med.JPG
TractorLarry
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If you look at my avatar, at the extreme front, lower section of the left panel, there are some minor melt marks.
I have no idea how they got there. I think my brother in law may have laid it up top on top of the heat shield or something.
-Larry
I have no idea how they got there. I think my brother in law may have laid it up top on top of the heat shield or something.
-Larry
Gator6x4 said:
TractorLarry
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There's an oddity with Kohler Command engines and Synthetic oil.
Every manual I've read (Kohler or Cub) states that my engine can only use Synthetic up TO 40 deg F.
No, I don't understand it either.
-Larry
Every manual I've read (Kohler or Cub) states that my engine can only use Synthetic up TO 40 deg F.
No, I don't understand it either.
-Larry
Gator6x4 said:
Thomas
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- Kubota B2650HSD w/Frontloader & CC LTX1046 & Craftman T2200 lawn mower.
Morning racemech.
Thanks for the heads up...I'll keep eye on my Cub 2042 and notice since your post there isn't all that much ventilation to exhaust hot air...Cub looks sharp w/all panel on,but I feel engine gotta breath.
Thanks for the heads up...I'll keep eye on my Cub 2042 and notice since your post there isn't all that much ventilation to exhaust hot air...Cub looks sharp w/all panel on,but I feel engine gotta breath.
TractorLarry
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My manual specifically states NOT to run without the panels as they are part of the air-flow design and the engine will actually overheat.
-Larry
-Larry
Thomas said:
I just found out today that CC has just issued a Service Bulletin on all 2006 2500 Series mowers about this exact problem. I retract my previous statement about looking at JD as a replacement...heat of the moment venting I suppose. I have had no other problems with it. NOTE: For all owners of the 2500 series, pop the hood and take a good look at the hood latch. The latch is fastened by two bolts behind the grill and two screws from the bottom. Here is how the problem starts...(1) The two screws at the bottom back out rather quickly. (2) Look closely at the top bolt holes in the hood latch, they are slotted. Hood tension, coupled with vibration during operation causes the bolts and the hood to slide up nearly 1/2", causing the grill to block off the exhaust, thereby melting the grill and warping the lower portion of the hood. I will be taking pictures in the morning and posting a new thread. Hopefully I can help save others the agravation. I will be on my third hood here next week.
Another case where a bill should be sent to MTD for the customer service provided here at TBN 
You will save a lot of owners time and grief, along with MTD some money for some bolts that probably just need some loctite on the threads racemech
MTD at least owes racemech a wild party!
If MTD read forums like this instead of waiting for a pile of warranty claims or returns, they would save themselves a lot of money and keep customers much more happy. I could easily see where I would be sickened if I bought a $3k+ tractor and the hood melted.
-Fordlords-
You will save a lot of owners time and grief, along with MTD some money for some bolts that probably just need some loctite on the threads racemech MTD at least owes racemech a wild party!
If MTD read forums like this instead of waiting for a pile of warranty claims or returns, they would save themselves a lot of money and keep customers much more happy. I could easily see where I would be sickened if I bought a $3k+ tractor and the hood melted.
-Fordlords-