Who rides motorcycles?

[cat fever]

I did the same thing earlier this season. Battery was dead, and I didn't want to deal with a trickle charger anymore, so I replaced my battery with an Earth-X battery. It has barely any discharge rates, is more powerful than stock, and made my bike drop 7 pounds it's so much lighter!

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I'll have to see if they make one that would fit my Harley.

 

[IslandTractor]

There's a feel you get for each surface, and concrete that's been grooved for rain will usually have a similar circumstance. I find the bridges a bit easier, esp with my taste for 3.00x21 front rubber.

What ya gotta do is loosen up on the bars and steer with your six, and IMO if you'd have to lean far to let go of the bars your rear wheel needs realigned.

Even a deliberate weave (a foot or so, not half a lane-width, lol) will remind you that you really steer with your a__ and the bars are there to:
- allow skillful use of clutch and brake.
- keep the wheel from tracking 'off' 'cuz tire pressures aren't sync'ed to make your steering 'neutral'.

I hate to sound like a know it all, but c'mon, if you 'steer' your 'horse' shouldn't it be a trike? (Ural/sidecar :thumbsup

btw, 'color tour' doesn't look promising here this Fall. Recent near-drought conditions have taken much right to dull yellows and browns and not many are showing the brilliant reds and oranges .. yet.

Agree with your comments. As much as I hate those bridges, it is largely because they are relatively rare and they tend to pop up in front of you with no warning. It takes practice to quickly and calmly adjust your riding style. I know not to fight the bridges but it is a challenge to avoid a reflexive death grip on the bars even as you try to relax and let the bridge steer.

On a related matter, just before the bridge I photographed (over the Delaware River at PA/NY border) was a twisting mountain road that for several miles had a depression, 3-4 inches deep and 5-6 inches wide, right along the centerline. No warning to motorcyclists. Accidentally crossing the centerline could easily trap the wheels and cause loss of control. The double centerline stripes were just painted in and next to the depression. That'll teach you to stay in your lane!

 

[blackdog2086]

We have dual sport motorcyles, a yamaha wr250r and wife has a Yamaha xt250

How do you like the 250R? I currently have several road bikes but really miss riding the trails and am considering the Yamaha. I have a quad and side by side (kids and grandkids) but it just isn't the same.

 

[Piston]

I'll have to see if they make one that would fit my Harley.

I'm sure they do, they make them for everything. I think I paid about $250 for mine.

Course the weight savings wouldn't matter much for you but it's still nice not to worry about trickle chargers. I can't say how it is long term since I've only had it one season.

 

[Piston]

We have dual sport motorcyles, a yamaha wr250r and wife has a Yamaha xt250

Judging by your name, I'd have thought you were more of a Kawasaki 250 kind of guy

I like those WR's! That's awesome your wife rides off road with you, I sold my wife's bike last year because she hadn't ridden it since she got pregnant about 6 years ago.

 

[CobyRupert]

....Even a deliberate weave (a foot or so, not half a lane-width, lol) will remind you that you really steer with your a__ and the bars are there to:
- allow skillful use of clutch and brake.
- keep the wheel from tracking 'off' 'cuz tire pressures aren't sync'ed to make your steering 'neutral'.

I hate to sound like a know it all, but c'mon, if you 'steer' your 'horse' shouldn't it be a trike? (Ural/sidecar :thumbsup

I respectfully disagree. Handlebars are very important for steering.
It's a bit counterintuitive, and opposite riding a trike, but every 2 wheeled biker should learn and convert into muscle memory that to steer (above parking lot speeds):
Push LEFT handlebar Forward for LEFT turns.
Push Right handlebar Forward for RIGHT turns.

..and always look with your eyes to where you want to go, not to where you don't want to go else you may end up there.

 

[V65ozzie]

Agree with your comments. As much as I hate those bridges, it is largely because they are relatively rare and they tend to pop up in front of you with no warning. It takes practice to quickly and calmly adjust your riding style. I know not to fight the bridges but it is a challenge to avoid a reflexive death grip on the bars even as you try to relax and let the bridge steer.

On a related matter, just before the bridge I photographed (over the Delaware River at PA/NY border) was a twisting mountain road that for several miles had a depression, 3-4 inches deep and 5-6 inches wide, right along the centerline. No warning to motorcyclists. Accidentally crossing the centerline could easily trap the wheels and cause loss of control. The double centerline stripes were just painted in and next to the depression. That'll teach you to stay in your lane!

Counter Steering. Learn it, use it. My ST1300 runs Darkside(Car tire on the back) Using counter steering I can throw it around like a bicycle.

 

[the old grind]

Heh, broad use of the term 'steer', but I only 'iron-grip' the bars when drifting the rear wheel out some. The 'push to steer' idea doesn't work for me on trucks or tractors, so 'lemons & avocados', I say.

I'll have to see if they make one that would fit my Harley.

<$100 for 16ah SLA/AGM battery in '16 (ETX-16) for my '89 FXSTS at AutoZone or similar a local farm chain (FF&H).

New 3-year 'std' battery wouldn't crank it any faster with a 10a charger connected too. Never thought the bike started for sour hen crap until I stepped up. If yours takes a larger size battery you might save weight with this size, or there may be an 18 or a 20ah that'll fit you tray/box.

btw, I retro-fitted my '80 FXEF (my pet) with points when the Magnavox HEI tanked. 'Kicker kit' was <$90 then, and it'll foot-start with a 12v 6ah battery, now. (~6 lb)

Whatever, just buy a good gel-job your size w/o the 'H-D pitch' & price.

 

[IslandTractor]

I respectfully disagree. Handlebars are very important for steering.
It's a bit counterintuitive, and opposite riding a trike, but every 2 wheeled biker should learn and convert into muscle memory that to steer (above parking lot speeds):
Push LEFT handlebar Forward for LEFT turns.
Push Right handlebar Forward for RIGHT turns.

..and always look with your eyes to where you want to go, not to where you don't want to go else you may end up there.

I think the point with the metal grate bridges is that you really don't want to steer. Just hold on and stay upright. The bridge will do the steering for you if you just maintain balance. Tougher at very low speeds where there is little gyroscope effect and the natural tendency is to steer to maintain balance. Balancing with your butt works better on these metal gratings.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I respectfully disagree. Handlebars are very important for steering.
It's a bit counterintuitive, and opposite riding a trike, but every 2 wheeled biker should learn and convert into muscle memory that to steer (above parking lot speeds):
Push LEFT handlebar Forward for LEFT turns.
Push Right handlebar Forward for RIGHT turns.

..and always look with your eyes to where you want to go, not to where you don't want to go else you may end up there.

Please, not another counter steer argument...

We all know how to ride a motorcycle.