Why am I destroying tail wheel forks?????

   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks????? #1  

CMV

Platinum Member
Joined
May 10, 2015
Messages
877
Location
NC
Tractor
Kioti NX4510HST (previous LS XJ2025H, JD 500C)
OK.....I'm doing something wrong.....way wrong.....and about to install my 3rd tail wheel fork on a 6' Bush Hog BH6 that's almost 3 yrs old. I figured the first one was due to the hydraulic top link failing, leaking down before I noticed, and i was just loading it up too much. But most of last season, I used the standard top link and this failure/damage happened after switching so that's not issue.

As far as I know, I'm not turning and smacking it into a tree, fencepost, some hard object. I have some hills, dips, ruts, and will occasionally dig a front corner into the dirt, but nothing so bad it should be loading up the tail wheel, but all I can think is a small ditch-like area I go over must do it.

I set to cut pretty short - about as high as a typical homeowner riding mower would cut at it's highest setting - 4.5" maybe?. At least i think that's short for a bush hog. On flat level ground the front of the frame (closest to PTO) is about 3" high. I adjust toplink so the back end (tailwheel end) is about 5-6" high. I think I'm doing that right - the rear slightly higher than the front. So maybe I'm overall just too low (I want about a finish mower height, but need something that can stand up to the occasional baseball-sized rock my land likes to just magically sprout). Maybe I need more of an angle and should have the back end more than just a couple inches higher? Not sure....I thought it was just supposed to be a couple inches higher to make it want to discharge rearward vs any random direction.

Anyway for standard cutting on fairly even ground the tailwheel doesn't touch the ground. Only inclines, ruts, hills, etc. I never really notice it loading up on the tailwheel, just that sometimes it does what it should and keeps the back end from dragging on uneven ground.
 
   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks????? #2  
I always have my tail wheel touching the ground.

Do you notice any situations where your tail wheel is maybe at a 90 degree to the ground and when it contacts, it's forced to whip back in line with the tractor? That's all I can think of.
 
   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks????? #3  
Hmmmm. Interesting question. Maybe it's BECAUSE the tailwheel isn't touching the ground all the time. I have a 30+ year old King Kutter on its original tailwheel, fork bearings, etc. and it gets about 60 hours a year of mowing and rough treatment. Tailwheel firmly planted on the ground the whole time.
 
   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks????? #4  
I set our tail wheel to be on the ground. Set the front to 3" clearance under the guide shoe, the rear to 4". Never run it with the wheel off the ground.. cut 15 acres 2x per summer. Bush Hog is 3 seasons old... going into its 4th with no visible wear on the wheel.

Is the wheel pivot greased and free to spin?

Is the wheel greased and free to spin?

Can't think what else would tear up the wheel.
 
   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks????? #5  
Maybe if you figure it out, you have solved the issue with the wobbly wheel on the shopping cart and need to tell the grocery industry how to fix their carts...

I actually though the tail wheel was a portion of height adjustment so you did not scalp the area being cut... Do you have rigid top link where mower is not allowed to flex as mower/tractor combo goes through dips and hollows putting excessive down force on tail wheel...
 
   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks????? #6  
Or, you could take it off. The rest of the world seems to get by without tail wheels.


no-tail-wheel.jpg


Bruce
 
   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks????? #7  
OK.....I'm doing something wrong.....way wrong.....and about to install my 3rd tail wheel fork on a 6' Bush Hog BH6 that's almost 3 yrs old. I figured the first one was due to the hydraulic top link failing, leaking down before I noticed, and i was just loading it up too much. But most of last season, I used the standard top link and this failure/damage happened after switching so that's not issue.

As far as I know, I'm not turning and smacking it into a tree, fencepost, some hard object. I have some hills, dips, ruts, and will occasionally dig a front corner into the dirt, but nothing so bad it should be loading up the tail wheel, but all I can think is a small ditch-like area I go over must do it.

I set to cut pretty short - about as high as a typical homeowner riding mower would cut at it's highest setting - 4.5" maybe?. At least i think that's short for a bush hog. On flat level ground the front of the frame (closest to PTO) is about 3" high. I adjust toplink so the back end (tailwheel end) is about 5-6" high. I think I'm doing that right - the rear slightly higher than the front. So maybe I'm overall just too low (I want about a finish mower height, but need something that can stand up to the occasional baseball-sized rock my land likes to just magically sprout). Maybe I need more of an angle and should have the back end more than just a couple inches higher? Not sure....I thought it was just supposed to be a couple inches higher to make it want to discharge rearward vs any random direction.

Anyway for standard cutting on fairly even ground the tailwheel doesn't touch the ground. Only inclines, ruts, hills, etc. I never really notice it loading up on the tailwheel, just that sometimes it does what it should and keeps the back end from dragging on uneven ground.
I don’t use my brush hog that much but as mentioned above by someone, or maybe several people, my understanding is the tail wheel is a tail wheel. You don’t run with a solid top link. You want the brush hog float on the tail wheel.

If you’re locking the back of the brush hog in place with the top link, you’re going to stress the fork assembly when it hits the ground during a dip, or at after a rise where the back of the mower wants to raise and can’t. (Same thing I guess)

My Woods BB60 brush hog has a hinged link where the top link is connected, so you cannot lock the BB60 (or tail wheel) in position.
 
   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks????? #8  
I adjust toplink so the back end (tailwheel end) is about 5-6" high. I think I'm doing that right - the rear slightly higher than the front.

Anyway for standard cutting on fairly even ground the tailwheel doesn't touch the ground.


Reset the tail wheel so it just touches the ground when you mow. Not with the TPH Top Link but by changing bolt positions in the tail wheel frame.
 
   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks????? #9  
Is the wheel pivot greased and free to spin?

Is the wheel greased and free to spin?

Can't think what else would tear up the wheel.

^^^^ This would be my guess. Easy to check.

I had the exact issue you had and found the pivot was not spinning properly. It was sticking. Drug the wheel and tore it up pretty fast.

I had to remove the existing zerk and put in a new one to get the grease inside properly. Once that was fixed all has been great.

I felt foolish but things happen.

Good luck.

MoKelly
 
   / Why am I destroying tail wheel forks?????
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Yes greased. Will have to get a pic. It's like the fork was smashed straight down from the top. Wheel spins freely, shaft pivots freely.
 

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