Why are "C" tiller tines different from "L" shaped tines?

   / Why are "C" tiller tines different from "L" shaped tines? #11  
C tines work best in clay soil. C tines will work better on ground that has ground cover they do not wind up surface crop as easy and L tines. L tines work best in sandy soils and if you are mixing something into the soil. Most tillers sold in the USA come with C tines except Howard & King Kutter & their copies.
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If you want to see a no nonsense rototiller that eliminates tillage tools you need to look at the Northwest Rototiller it will till down to 14 inches on one pass and you can plant the same day. its especially beneficial if you use ridge tillage as you can till one day, then build the ridges/raised beds and plant on the third day.
 
   / Why are "C" tiller tines different from "L" shaped tines? #12  
I just changed out my L tines on my Howard ( HR-8 ) tiller to the C style. Noticed right away that it smoothed out the way the tiller operates, less vibration and a better till seams to come from less passes. Seams to use less power when engaging the ground as well as deeper penetration in less passes. Don't know how they will last, only used one season so far, but I'm thinking the C style is the winner in my soil over the L.
Chris
 
   / Why are "C" tiller tines different from "L" shaped tines? #13  
Interesting thread. I'm on my 4th set of "L" tines on my John Deere 660 (Howard) rototiller. Based on what I've read here I'm going to try a set of "C" tines for the next set.

I'm usually rototilling in soft soil and can get to about 10 inches in one pass. Every once in a while I have a customer that can't stay out of the garden with their tractor. Then I have a hard mess to deal with. Usually 2-3 passses to get a descent seed bed.
 
   / Why are "C" tiller tines different from "L" shaped tines? #14  
I use my tiller for about 20 min max each spring, to till my garden. I dont expect to ever wear a tine out.
 
   / Why are "C" tiller tines different from "L" shaped tines? #15  
pmsmechanic, the tine dealer told me that my Howard HR-8 uses the same set of tines that your John Deere 660 uses. Thinking if you install the C type on your 660 you are going to be pleased with the result. Mine used 18 left, 18 right, 36 total. Good price as well, around $275 delivered.
Chris
 
   / Why are "C" tiller tines different from "L" shaped tines?
  • Thread Starter
#16  
pmsmechanic, the tine dealer told me that my Howard HR-8 uses the same set of tines that your John Deere 660 uses. Thinking if you install the C type on your 660 you are going to be pleased with the result. Mine used 18 left, 18 right, 36 total. Good price as well, around $275 delivered.
Chris

You can also buy carbide tines for those tillers as well if wear is an issue. They aren't cheap.
I think Maschio is the same tine as the Deere tine as well.
 
   / Why are "C" tiller tines different from "L" shaped tines? #17  
Deere use to buy/sell Howard, now it rebadges Maschio...

How many tines you use is dependent on tiller width.

ALL brands of tines are NOT created equal! I've found Howard brand, to be longer lasting than the others I've tried. You can NOT buy on price alone!

The brand/style of bolts you use makes a difference too...

Carbide tines would be too brittle for general tilling use.

SR
 
   / Why are "C" tiller tines different from "L" shaped tines?
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I almost never replace a tiller bolt but re-use them with Loctite. Granted, I'm in soft and prepped dirt a lot but used to till in the glacial till of New England. Today, I'll add, I till everything in my path with a commercial Maschio and the bolts are never loose and never break. I till clay tiles a lot, general decades old trash refuse and all kinds of farm residue and trash that is now someone's yard. If the bolts are tight, and mine are, they don't seem to wear or break.

Howard is probably the best tiller, maybe tied with the Maschio big ones, and I once tilled a driveway with a big rock sub base and moved the gravel/rocks/etc to a new spot I tilled and dug out. I had to add some gravel and the (chain drive) Howard took a beating, but never a problem. I would buy one now but they aren't widely available around here. Kuhn is also a good brand but I've never owned one.

I said carbide tines but maybe they're something else because I have seen them used hard in abrasive soil and they didn't seem to break or even wear very much. I've toyed with the idea of hard facing the edge of my tiller tines to get more use but figured it might unbalance things. Anyone think that would work?
 
   / Why are "C" tiller tines different from "L" shaped tines? #19  
Do you really till so much, that you are wearing them out, that they need hard facing???

One of my Howard tillers is going on 2,000 acres, original chain/sprockets... Made "right", I much prefer them over gear drive...

SR
 
   / Why are "C" tiller tines different from "L" shaped tines? #20  
SR I find the amount of use has very little bearing on how long tines last. What has far more effect on tine wear is the type of soil. I live in a fairly sandy area. I would be lucky to get 100 acres out of a set of tines on a 5' rototiller.

Thank you chriswheeler. I'll probably get one more year out of the present tines. The outside edge ones are bad but I saved the best used ones out of previous sets.

I've thought of hard facing too but have never tried it.
 
 

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