Why are "newer" vehicles so hard to work on?

   / Why are "newer" vehicles so hard to work on? #41  
First off, the clunking. The intermediate shaft will fix it. Its the most common complaint on the Silverados as far as the noise your talking about. If it is, in fact, related to take-off, like someone else mentioned, grease the slip-joint on the driveshaft.

Second, bring your ecoboost to my shop, I'll fix it for ya. ;) I'm a "self-trained" mechanic at an independent shop. Some mechanics like to swindle people out of money, and some just enjoy what they do enough to keep up with the times and technology. You have to find someone that meets the latter.

As far as the newer vehicles. Most people in this thread have nailed it. The newer vehicles are required by the government to achieve a certain economy rating or be below a certain emissions threshold. They achieve this with both size/weight of the vehicle itself (smaller engine compartment) and larger amounts of technology running the engine (more gadgets, computers, etc). Its not just the auto makers to blame. Not saying they don't have something to do with it, but they are reacting to a certain degree. It would have been cheaper in the beginning for them to have stuck with the old steel chassis'ed, carbureted gas hogs of yester-year. Think of all of the money that went into engineering and retooling the plants to create the new bodies and engines to meet these standards...

And saying that the manufacturers do this on purpose, thats right and wrong. They don't just want to say "ha ha, you can't work on this, bring your wallet to us". When you buy a car, you are provided a warranty. They are standing behind their product. If you start messing with what they have created, altering things, why should they have to stand behind it if you've wrenched on it and broken something? False warranty claims account for a very large loss of revenue (I would assume) for auto makers. I just got into this debate on a cell phone modification forum the other day as well. People complaining about "we bought the phone, why can't we modify it". Yet people also complain all the time "my phone won't turn on anymore, how can I erase my tracks so I can take it back to verizon and get a new one". See what I mean?

So I think the manufacturers did a pretty decent job all-in-all. They did their best to make a product that can't be modified and worked on too much, but normally will last at least as long as its warranty period before needing much work, if any at all. Nobody is perfect though, I agree there are some things that they missed on. Some designs are far from perfect...

To the OP, I understand your frustration. Your not alone. The majority of late model vehicles (smaller, non-truck models at least) require intake or other major components to be removed. One reason for this is: The farther the air can travel inside the plenum, the better the vortex is created to atomize the fuel when it hits the combustion chamber, hence the large chambers on top of the motor. Ford and other various models took this a step farther and created a system that allows shorter chambers for certain engine loads, and butterfly valves that would open and divert air through longer passageways for other load demands, giving multiple options for optimum power and torque. Therefore increasing engine efficiency, satisfying the government stipulations. BUT, also increasing the demand for computer space, wiring, relays, actuators, etc, to run the entire system. See where things start multiplying?

It seems they are out to get you, and sometimes they kinda are I'm sure. But there are more reasons behind it than what allot of people realize. Food for thought.

I agree with most of your latter statements, but you started out wrong with your first sentence. Thats not what's wrong with the truck with the "clunk". Go to a GM dealer and say what I said in my post and they will know what to do, this is a common condition that can be fixed by a GM trained Tech, not the self trained garage.
 
   / Why are "newer" vehicles so hard to work on? #42  
Sorry, I'm on my phone. Small screen. I must have missed a post. I saw you ask a question about if it was driveline related, or related to takeoff. Never saw an answer. I merely pointed out that most times a clunking noise in a silverado is attributed to the intermediate shaft. If no one answered the question, I'm not sure how I was wrong about anything. But I did leave the option open that if the answer came back as driveline related, grease the driveshaft slip joint, that's normally what causes a clunk after releasing preload like you say
 
   / Why are "newer" vehicles so hard to work on?
  • Thread Starter
#43  
I'll post an update after I replace my intermediate steering shaft.
 
   / Why are "newer" vehicles so hard to work on? #44  
I have to agree,they have made it so you have to take to the dealership.
The manufacturers do this on purpose to force you to take your car to the dealership to be worked on.
 
   / Why are "newer" vehicles so hard to work on? #45  
   / Why are "newer" vehicles so hard to work on? #46  
I know I have worked on a lot of older cars, done it for a living for a while and have always done most all my own maintenance needs. Today changed the oil on my 91 F150 (119K miles and the old oil was only 2K on it but almost 3 years.) Looking under it I can see how good it really is and have owned it for 12 or 13 years. In that time 78K to 119K so NOT my DD & as such just keep it going down the road. The DD I have gone thru a good number in the same time but mostly all Fords & never had much issue with ANY of them.

Bought a HONDA (re-badged Isuzu) and have put even less miles on it in last 3 years only because it breaks down every time I drive it, it's pure JUNK. Needless to say I have it for sale and left plates expire & bought a small ZX2 Ford. I put on new wheel bearings, brakes water pump and timing set with plugs. Every one I pulled off looked about like new, bought it used and woman said she had work done but never told me what. From the looks of it I could have put 50~75K on it with nothing more than gas & oil changes. That was July last year & as of now it has 135K (35K added in 13 months.) I also have a 200+K mile T-Bird runs well but odometer quit in winter last year at -20F cold morning. It is pretty easy also to work on (one plug is hard to get to on the Passenger side because of AC evap.) it is rusty, noisy and the factory struts are pretty much shot it starts up good & has been real dependable, I bought it at 100K 5 or 6 years ago now.

Contrast that to a 1970s cars that are VERY easy to work on (my brother and I) in 1990 pulled out a 460CDI engine out of a 73LTD and pulled my 74 400 out of my Cougar. Swapped the 73 into the 74 only to find out the drive shaft and mounts were wrong. SO swapped BOTH ENGINES BACK into original cars and drove off at 4:30 pm same day... But we were gear heads too lol...

I STILL OWN the 74 Cougar with that same 400 Engine in it but I have since punched it 20 over, all new rotating assembly, ported polished heads, and full Eledbrock intake/cam carb and done a lot of work. Bought it in 87 and may some day restore it but it sleeps in the back garage till the time to resurrect the beast comes.

In same token I have a NEW 3.8 Ford rebuilt engine 20 over also ported polished intake and heads ready for a T-Bird body that came from N Carolina & is rust free... Need the time and a 2nd set of hands for the smaller harder to work on stuff but no longer have the brother to help he left the world 4 years ago now...

M
 
   / Why are "newer" vehicles so hard to work on? #47  
I have to agree,they have made it so you have to take to the dealership.

Exactly. While at the dealership you pay top dollar for repairs and get a chance to see the new models they have for sale.
 
   / Why are "newer" vehicles so hard to work on? #48  
My son's little POS Saturn is going to need a clutch soon, so thinking this would be a good project for both of us to work on, I buy the Haynes manual for the car to see what it takes and if any special tools are required (Yes). But the kicker is: "Step 1: Remove engine"!!! - Are you f*%*ing kidding me?

My brother in law called me Sunday to come help him change the starter on a 2009 Hyundai Sonota - it was tucked in under the intake and accessible from neither top nor bottom. Pulling the engine actually crossed my mind at one point when I had my arm contorted through a gap between the alternator and the intake trying to put the new stater back in place to get a bolt started.
 
   / Why are "newer" vehicles so hard to work on?
  • Thread Starter
#49  
Update as promised. Today I replaced the intermediate steering shaft in my '03 Chevy 2500 Duramax. It was a little more difficult than I expected, ended up pulling the LF wheel and removing the fender well liner so that I had better access. The good news is the "clunking" problem appears to be solved! I really hope to get another 100K miles out of this truck, so I don't mind putting some $$ into her. Sure beats paying for a new one!
 
   / Why are "newer" vehicles so hard to work on? #50  
Excellent news, I am glad that is all it was. I am curious what it cost, you can PM me if you don't want to post it.
 

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