Oil & Fuel Why does oil light come on?

[PHILIP8N]

Not long after I got my used B8200, there was a thread on triple gauge sets that some TBNers were talking about. I invested $13 in a set- oil pressure, voltage and coolant temp. I made a "console" to mount them, but installing them was easy. I just installed a tee were the oil sender switch was, and bingo- very useful, I think. Seems to me everyone should have such information about how their engines are working.

Nice setup. What does your oil pressure run hot/cold/idle/max rpm? Or just simply the range you normally see? What coolant temp do you stabilize at? Thanks. Philip.

 

[crazyal]

You can just go to your local auto parts store, like AutoZone and pick up a gauge. The gauges usually come with different adapters to work with both SAE and metric fittings. If not they will have any adapters you may need. Chances are there are multiple places you can install the sensor for the pressure gauge. As long as your engine isn't running very little oil will leak out so you can just bring it down to the store with you.

 

[bky]

Well I installed a 60 psi pressure gauge in a tee I installed to keep the oil pressure switch connected. started the engine and maxed out the pressure gauge. warmed up the engine to operating temp and the gauge stayed above 60 psi, I then ramped it to 2000 rpm and the gauge stayed around 60 psi
then i throttled down to idle (around 500 rpm) and gauge dropped to around 55 -60 psi. the light never did come on probably because i was using brass fittings between the pressure switch and the block. I am going to test the switch with air compressor and ohm meter before reinstalling it back in the block. question is was /is the pressure too high?

 

[Chilly807]

60 psi sounds about right, it may be a bit lower fully warmed up. Diesels typically run higher oil pressure than a gas engine. You may want to try a 100 psi gauge, having them maxed out often damages the accuracy.

Sean

 

[bky]

Is it possible to have too much pressure?

 

[Chilly807]

It IS possible, but I don't think that's the case here. In my opinion, you have a sensor problem. The brass couplings conduct better than steel to steel. It's possible that just moving it around a little cured the problem, at least for the moment.

Sean

 

[moored4]

It IS possible, but I don't think that's the case here. In my opinion, you have a sensor problem. The brass couplings conduct better than steel to steel. It's possible that just moving it around a little cured the problem, at least for the moment.

Sean

Sean, I am haveing a problem following this. We are talking PSI, not tempature, What does the type of tubbing/pipe have to do with pressure.
David

 

[irvingj]

I'll also second the thought about the sending unit.

Most of the time, in my experience, the sender was the problem. Sometimes they just get "old" and fail to register properly, but often it's just a small piece of sludge --or similar-- in the sending unit's entry port. You may have dislodged it when you installed the gauge. (They're not called "idiot lights" for nothing!:laughing If the proper range pressure gauge looks OK, and there aren't any bad noises, you should be fine.

 

[Chilly807]

Sean, I am haveing a problem following this. We are talking PSI, not tempature, What does the type of tubbing/pipe have to do with pressure.
David

the light never did come on probably because i was using brass fittings between the pressure switch and the block.

The OP said he was using brass fittings, the pressure switch for the warning light is electric and relies on a good connection between the sensor and the block for a ground. Brass conducts quite well, ergo there should be no problem.

Sean

 

[Max Power]

The OP said he was using brass fittings, the pressure switch for the warning light is electric and relies on a good connection between the sensor and the block for a ground. Brass conducts quite well, ergo there should be no problem.

Sean

that's a stretch. lol