Why does starter fluid cure my no start? What is the issue?

[ray66v]

Follow the cable to where the outer part is clamped, and the inner part comes out to move the linkage.

Loosen the screw that holds the outer part of the cable, and move the linkage by hand. You will feel the choke stop, when it's fully closed.

Re-tighten the clamp so that the cable is in the right position to allow you to reach that point.

Adjusting the choke so that it fully closes, can be the problem. It was on mine when it was new. But, a couple of years later, it didn't matter if I made that adjustment.

I will replace the fuel solenoid on mine next year, to see if that changes anything.

 

[goeduck]

Never been a starter fluid person, I figure I might as well fix the real problem. Some brands can (in some carbs) really gunk up the gaskets.

 

[Ford850]

Choke makes the most sense to me. Maybe it’s adjusted ok but are you pulling the knob all the way up? Sometimes those pull knobs need lubed a little so the rod doesn’t bind.

 

[the old grind]

Throttle is ~ 1/2 or so open when cranking with choke on?

My Husky's 28hp B&S needs at least that much since new for 'cold' start, 5 yrs now.

My Terramite's 20hp Honda requires full choke and 3/4 or more throttle to start cold in any weather, .. choke to start warm too. (Says so on labels and in op manual.)

That one is still till running fine after 15yrs, bot 'used' off rental fleet.

Even with full choke if throttle is not open enough only idle system providing fuel to lean-burning SGEs.

Honda has shut-off solenoid in carb bowl and another on the 'firewall'. Nothing new to me and never a problem with either of them.

All my cans get Sta-Bil added when I bring 'em home. No diff ever noticed with 'off-season' gasoline.

 

[ray66v]

Throttle is ~ 1/2 or so open when cranking with choke on?

My Husky's 28hp B&S needs at least that much since new for 'cold' start, 5 yrs now.

On consumer grade equipment, they generally don't have a separate choke, and throttle anymore. It's usually just one lever with choke settings at full deflection.

This no doubt is part of the problem, since it limits your starting options.

Apparently, too many people were running them with the choke part of the way on, which makes a lot of pollution. That's also why the primer bulb has replaced the choke on many engines.

 

[the old grind]

Never saw a 'big twin' with a primer bulb. Single cyl < 6hp, yeah, and handhelds. Riding mower ain't chain saw.

btw, Only combined throttle/choke I have is on '96 Dixon 13hp B&S single. Separate choke lever on DR stumper and all others.

 

[ray66v]

Never saw a 'big twin' with a primer bulb. Single cyl < 6hp, yeah, and handhelds. Riding mower ain't chain saw.

I wasn't suggesting there was. That would be futile, since a large engine would require a workout.

I am told, they put plunger style primers on snowmobiles.

Being a pilot, I'm familiar with that style, because they use them on small aircraft. And, I like them. But, they can cause a fire, if used improperly. I would suspect that's why consumer grade mowers don't have them.

I'm thinking of making up a primer system with an electric fuel pump, operated by a push button.

 

[tomplum]

A few thoughts on small engines that tie in with this thread: 1)Repeated starting fluid use can actually be habit forming for engines. It is better to address the issues rather than rely on its use. Carburetor spray is a safer alternative and for intermittent use. 2) Your carburetor's throttle plate is wide open. Right now, no matter where the throttle is set- it is wide open when the engine is not running. If you can see the throttle arm or linkage, watch it try to close as you crank the engine and as the engine starts.3) Briggs Intek twins can normally require extended cranking when cold if they have sat for several weeks. Mostly it is simply the design of the intake manifold and the performance of the carburetor. For best results, stabilize your fuel and run every couple of weeks to cycle fresh fuel into the carb plus maintain the fuel level in the float bowl. If they (or really just about any OPE engine) have a cold starting issue every time- ensure the choke is closing, the fuel fresh, test for fuel pump output at first crank, feel for the click of the anti backfire solenoid at the bowl of the carb when the key is cycled. These four things seem to be the issue with the majority of cold start issues. Of course there are other factors which may require attention. 4) Many of the smaller engines that had primers were more forgiving than a like engine with a choke for cold starts. Many went to auto chokes, including the twins on your rider. A step forward?

 

[Industrial Toys]

Wouldn't Carburator spray be more like a gateway drug then?

I have almost never used Sarting fluid on any engine and never on a Diesel. I do use it for seating large tires though.

 

[ForumJunkie]

Thanks for the tips.

Tractor is at the shop, and is getting choke parts replaced under warranty.
I will try to ask them the specific issue.

My tractor has a manual choke and manual throttle lever.