Why have a tail wheel on a small rotary cutter ??

[k0ua]

I have that very rotary cutter, and you don't want it to be level. Set the rear wheel to just kiss the ground when it is at the normal height you want to mow at. The mower will be in a front down attitude. This will clear the debris and actually mow much better. With at swinging link it will float up nicely when you back up a hill.

James K0UA

 

[pacerron]

I often unhook the top link from the mower after transporting it to the are to be cut. This lets the front of the mower float over uneven terrain and small ditches.

A problem might occur if the top link is completely unhooked if you have a pond or other steep incline. I back down some of the banks to the water edge until the wheel is actually over the water. The mower rear could possibly cock down far enough that the PTO drive shaft between the tractor and mower would pull apart. The end connected to the tractor would buckle at the universal and the other flopping, spinning end could do some serious damage.
Conversely, backing up the steep rear side of the dam from the bottom or similar hill could jam the PTO shaft together and stick it or damage the gearbox.
That is why the center link should be attached but with some slack.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I use the chains attached at the lift arm and bottom of the top link at the tractor to control the height at the front of the bush hog when using my Yanmar because I could never get it adjusted properly after raising and lowering without stopping and looking. It was always too high or low so I put the chains on and just dropped the lift arms down so they float. All the weight is carried on the tail wheel and the chains that are attached to the top link attachment point on the tractor. That keeps everything floating till I am ready to lift it. I can keep my top link loose so the back of the bush hog will lift without binding on the top link. I can go thru deep ditches, back up 30 degree slopes like on my pond dike and not bind anything and the chains keep it at the exact height that I want. You can buy them at farm supplies like Atwoods and tractor supply. You also dont want the BH front skids dragging on the ground. NOT only does it leave ugly marks in your pasture, but it wears out the skids very quickly.

Tail wheel should always be adjusted higher in back than in front for heavy hogging to allow the trash to clear easier. It should never be lower in back than the front in any case. Level would be ok if you wanted to really shred the material, but it is going to cost you some extra power and fuel to turn in that way as you are chopping and rechopping the forage material.

 

[pacerron]

I use the chains attached at the lift arm and bottom of the top link at the tractor to control the height at the front of the bush hog when using my Yanmar because I could never get it adjusted properly after raising and lowering without stopping and looking. It was always too high or low so I put the chains on and just dropped the lift arms down so they float. All the weight is carried on the tail wheel and the chains that are attached to the top link attachment point on the tractor. That keeps everything floating till I am ready to lift it. I can keep my top link loose so the back of the bush hog will lift without binding on the top link. I can go thru deep ditches, back up 30 degree slopes like on my pond dike and not bind anything and the chains keep it at the exact height that I want. You can buy them at farm supplies like Atwoods and tractor supply. You also dont want the BH front skids dragging on the ground. NOT only does it leave ugly marks in your pasture, but it wears out the skids very quickly.

Tail wheel should always be adjusted higher in back than in front for heavy hogging to allow the trash to clear easier. It should never be lower in back than the front in any case. Level would be ok if you wanted to really shred the material, but it is going to cost you some extra power and fuel to turn in that way as you are chopping and rechopping the forage material.

Gary,
That is a good summary of what we all have been trying to explain to him over the last 2 pages.
I noticed this morning that "bcp" included a link to the King Cutter manual.
It indicates at the top of page 21 that the back should be 2" higher than the front. Where he got the level deck idea from must have been where they were talking about putting oil in the gearbox, I guess.
The top bracket on the mower for the top link, as pointed out by "bcp" may be his problem. The diagram shows it pointing vertical. He may have it in that position and bolted tight. On my Woods 6' rotary mower the top link bracket
is loose so the top link can be given slack. I though they all worked in a similar way. In his mower diagram the part is named " swivel yoke assembly" so that means the same thing in my English.
I hope he will read the part about attaching the anti-rotation chain for the PTO shaft shield. I was amazed a while back at how many folks on this forum didn't know the purpose, didn't have them on their mowers and other equipment either because they took them off or had purchased used equipment that didn't have them.

 

[TripleR]

There are a lot of interesting threads on this, but I can't seem to find the right ones when I need them. I seem to remember one dealing with the evolution of the rotary cutter with the first ones not having a tail wheel. I believe Soulisphil runs one without though it is a newer production; maybe I am "misremembering".

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/39691-rear-wheel-bush-hog.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/82987-do-i-really-need-tail.html

 

[jeff9366]

I use a forestry CABLE SLIDER AND GRAB LINK on "second pin" of Top Link to adjust chain length to rotary mower deck. <Kubota B3300SU + old King Kutter 48" Rotary Mower>

These assemblies are difficult to find so following are two vender links:

Look on the lower half of SLF page below.

Silver Lake Fabrication - Belmont, NH - 603-630-5658 - CHOKER CHAINS, CABLES, HOOKS, AND SUPPLIES

SLF's web page is cranky; at least when accessed from an Apple. Hence the telephone number: (603) 630-5658

SLF does not accept credit cards (June 2012) however they do invoice through PAYPAL.

3/8" Grab Link Assembly has 1" collar inner diameter; perfect for Category 1 pins.

5/16" Grab Link Assembly has 1/2" collar inner diameter.
((I do NOT have first hand experience with 5/16" assembly.))

Sheldon Hill Forestry Supplies Inc.: CHOKE GLIDER

If I were running either of these businesses I would list these assemblies on eBay.

 

[jeff9366]

Here is second fixture idea for adjusting chain lengths:

B/A Pear Link with 5/16in. Grab hooks 4700-Lb. Safe Working Load, 2ft.L x 8in.W, Model# N711-8E | Tow Chains, Ropes + Straps | Northern Tool + Equipment

I have no personal experience with this assembly; it was another idea I researched before deciding on 3/8" Cable Slider & Grab Link from Silver Lake Fabrication in immediately preceding post.

NORTHERN TOOL PEAR LINKS + GRAB HOOKS ASSEMBLY available on eBay.

 

[Jd5203]

I just got a 48" rotary cutter and can't see much of a purpose for the tail wheel. I'm always fidgeting with the three point height anyway, my three point hitch isn't a position control type. So I was thinking of just getting rid of the tail wheel and bracket, makes it more manuverable under trees too. What do you think?

Thanks, Dale

Your tail wheel takes a tremendous amount of stress off your three point hitch. Also it helps the brush hog to float with the ground more easily. Ex. If your going on flat ground and start going up a steep hill your tail wheel keeps the rear end from digging into the ground and destroying your blades. The companies put Hesse on here for a reason, if they did not think it was necessary they would have left it off the design. KEEP IT ON!!!