Why I needed the HD Alternator Option - Light Bar!

sandyc · Mar 13, 2004

Appreciate the offer. I actually dropped the starter so I could use a smaller drill to ream out the hole. Between a round file and using a drill the aluminum was easy to remove. Like I said, just a real pain. I tried to cut down a larger bit to fit into my drill but my hack saw wouldn't/couldn't handle it, hence the file and ream method.
I also had to relocate one of the hoses for my cab heater as well. A large wire tie took care of that.

Junkman · Mar 13, 2004

Do you make house calls? My alternator has been sitting on the shelf in the garage since September and I haven't even given a thought to installing it. After hearing all the horror stories of problems, it isn't high on my priority list right now. How far are you from Woodstock, Ct???

sandyc · Mar 13, 2004

Junkman:

Once you remmove the cowl from the engine there is no real big deal in adding the new alternator. Maybe you'll have better luck than me and find that there is a bushing in the bottom mount. If not, and if you have to remove the starter there are but two bolts to deal with. I did not remove any of the starter wires and merely let it rest against a tie rod.

The fan belt can be a bit of a challenge because there is not much room between the alternator and the radiator overflow tank.

Good luck....you'll enjoy the added juice in the electrical system!

rbarker · Mar 14, 2004

( Do you make house calls? My alternator has been sitting on the shelf in the garage since September and I haven't even given a thought to installing it. After hearing all the horror stories of problems, it isn't high on my priority list right now. How far are you from Woodstock, Ct??? )

I agree with Sandy, with the exception of the pivot bolt hole issue and the very poor directions that come with the kit, the alternator isn't that big of a job. I'm sure you can handle it with the aid of the discusions here at the greatest tractor site in the world! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I'm close to the New Hamshire border along the coast so it would be a bit of a haul but I would happily send you the bit if you want. BTW, I can't take credit for that, my Father with over 60 years as a machinist did the cutting and grinding work on the bit. Took a standard bit, cut it down to just long enough to go through the casting, then backed off the flukes so it didn't chatter and tear up the aluminum. Worked like a charm!

Junkman · Mar 14, 2004

I know that I can do it, but I am retired and that translates to lazy. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Remember Huck Finn and the fence story??? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

rbarker · Mar 15, 2004

( I know that I can do it, but I am retired and that translates to lazy. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Remember Huck Finn and the fence story??? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif )

Yes I do! And I'm not falling for it either! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif Nice try, though! Maybe you could get Henro to do it after he's done drilling his ROPS! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

RobMA · Mar 21, 2004

OK, here are some of the photos of the lightbar installation.

The front view shows the aluminum angle stock with the light mounted to it. Look closely at the ends an you will see the u-bolts holding it to the ROPS.

The aluminum stock and u-bolts were painted with Rustoleum Grip and Guard spray paint. This is the stuff you can use to put new cushion grips on your tools. I figured the surfaces would be more scratch-resistant as well as adding some cushion around the u-bolts so it wouldn't scratch the ROPS paint.

The side view shows a little more detail of the method of mounting.

An angle view of the mounting.

The whole assembly is nice and strong and doesn't stand out like a sore thumb. I ran the wires down the outside of the ROPS through 3/8" plastic flex loom tubing. I used cable ties to hold it to the side of the ROPS. All the wires go into a small plastic project box under the seat where everything connects to the relays and flasher. Wires run from the relays in the box to the dashboard switches for activation. Power comes from the 20A auxillary light circuit under the seat.

- Rob

_RaT_ · Mar 21, 2004

Out of curiosity, why did you do this? Do you clear snow for folks etc.?

RobMA · Mar 21, 2004

( Out of curiosity, why did you do this? Do you clear snow for folks etc.? )

Did I need a reason??? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Actually, I have to maintain a long driveway and private road which often I plow at night. (Hence, the floodlights). The amber wig-wags are for when I clean up the end of my road which intersects at an S-curve. While its not a heavily travelled road, it is a rather tough place to have your back toward the oncoming traffic.

In fact, the other day I was cleaning up the end of the road and I noticed that cars were stopping for me until I waved them on. I wasn't even on the road they were travelling on. The flashing amber lights seem to be doing their job.

- Rob