Rotary Cutter Why is my bush hog hitting my rear tires?

[SPYDERLK]

It looks to me that in picture 4 the bushhog frame is bent. Looks like someone backed into something bending the 3 pt. arm. I can't tell about the left side but if that arm was straight (like the KK picture shows) the cutter would be a lot further away from the tires.

Yes, there is bending of that strap metal hitch frame as I posted back in #14, as well as loose or partly sheared bolts holding it to the bh body [pic 7]. In its present shape it is much weaker than if the geometry were corrected. Many contributing problems at the front. I cant actually see a bend in the front of the body tho.
larry

 

[zzvyb6]

Try putting your top link in the back hole on the tractor bracket. then shorten the top link length. The current setup is rotating the brush hog deck into the tires becaused its loosing its parallel travel geometry.

 

[AchingBack]

Sorry, but I respectfully disagree. That blue RC is not a KingKutter. Note that the pins - in their present location - are measurably higher off the deck than those in the (yellow) KK picture.

Moving the pins on FlatHead's blue rotary cutter to the bottom holes - like those in the attachment below - will move the deck measureably away from the tractor tires. Note also the flexible toplink bracket

//greg//

I see what you are saying. I was mislead by his posting of that yellow cutter, which looks quite similar in design.

 

[djradz]

When I pick up my bush hog high enough, it'll actualy hit the rear tires. Is this right. I wouldn't think it should.

I moved the top link to the bottom hole (from the advice on here, thanks!) and that allowed me to actually pick the bush hog wheel off of the ground- it wasn't before.

In looking at King Kutter's website, their bush hog looks like the forward lifting frame is perpendicular to the mower deck. Where as mine looks to be bent. Would this throw it off?

If you can, study out the pics and tell me what I'm doing wrong. What are all of these other adjustments; the two holes for the top link, why do the lift arms have places to mount them on the bottom and top of the axle, what are the other holes for in the lift arms, anything else you can help me with? My old 8N didn't have near as many settings.......or it didn't seem as complicated....

There are several things wrong.
1) As others have noted, the frame is somewhat bent. I think you may just want to replace or fabricate something new. KK's design is probably not the best shape and you could probably get by with something straighter. See arms on attached mower.
2) There is not floating top link, which would allow for the deck to move and maybe have prevented the initial bending
3) Others have had a similar problem with the KK deck, just as you describe, because of the high-mounted pins. Usually the solution has been to simply lower the pins to another location - either the bolt hole below, or drill new.
4) Your top link is rather long, but I expect its so you can get a level mowing. You may want to investigate the installation of the flexible top connection (floating top link) and the addition of check chains instead to get improved and very level mowing. Again, see attachment.

Good luck. I'm sure with a little work you'll have a deck that will last a lifetime and give a great cut too boot.