Why to never run out of gas

[4570Man]

Many years ago, I ran the machine out of gas. I have several 6 gallon cans, and a 1 gallon can. I put exactly 1 gallon into the PT's tank and marked it with permanent marker. Added gallon #2 and marked it. #3 mark and #4 mark. So I can tell by looking how many gallons are in the tank before I operate. I know I burn around a gallon an hour. When it gets down to around a gallon, I fill it backup to 4.5 (never to the tippy top, as it'll leak around the cap), and know I've got about 4 hours of run time.

It's something you'll get used to doing once you gauge how much your own machine burns.

Also, as suggested, get a tooth bar for your bucket or a potato digger and use that to loosen up the soil and then scoop it out with the bucket. With the quick attach, it's so easy to change implements, it won't even slow you down, and, will probably speed up your progress in tougher soil. I have almost all sand, so I'm not in the same situation as you.

As far as running and cooling down.... it really depends on the ambient air temperature and the chores you're doing. For example, in early spring this year, with temps in the 50's, I was pulling logs for 3-4 hours, constantly running full speed 1/4 mile downhill and around, grab a log with the tongs, then full speed back 1/4 mile and up hill. Around hour 3.5 I started noticing the machine slowing down going up the hill and I could tell it was warm hydraulics. So I took a break for half an hour, drank some gatorade, ate a sandwich and let the machine cool down. Half hour later, I ran one more hour and finished up for the day.

So, ambient temps were in the 50's and I managed to heat it up pretty hot.

Fast forward to about a week ago, temp in the 90's, and I was brush hogging thick weeds, brush and grass. I ran for 3.5-4 hours non stop, and never had a hint of it getting weak on the hills.

One would think that brush hogging continuously in the 90's for 3-4 hours would be harder than dragging logs for the same time period, but every other 1/4 mile dragging and every other 1/4 mile tramming with no load on the return trip in the 50's would give it plenty of time to cool down.

I think the high speed tramming at 8mph heats up the oil more than the 2-3mph and running the brush cutter.

No scientific proof, but it makes sense to me, given the ambient temps I was operating in.

I really expected the machine to poop out during my brush hogging in the 90s, but I pooped out first.

I can’t believe how much heat comes out the radiator in my skid steer. It’s like 4 torpedo heaters blowing the same direction.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Man, I could list a dozen different times I let panick take over logic and nearly kill myself. You learned, you won't do it again.

I am not sure what size filters you have on your machine, but as the oil in my machine only gets partially filtered I do NOT replace every 50 hours, I instead replace once a year. Which is probably around 120 hours or so. I do, though, cut each filter open and check for particulates.

 

[agjones]

Whew. Glad the scare turned out OK.

I've got plenty of pucker time and can certainly empathize.

I've got a pt w each treadle set up mossroad mentioned. First thing that popped in my head was wondering if you had unintentionally floored it in the stall out panic. That will keep you rolling.

I would not recommend jamming in the brake at more than a creep. It's a mechanical pin that thrusts in the gaps of the brake flange. It positively and immediately stops those front wheels when it catches. But if you have pressure on the forward side of the treadle the rear wheels can continue to turn. That plus weight out front could be a disaster on a Slope.

My brake cable worked loose pretty often in the early days jamming the brake on. 6mph never felt so fast. If you hear clicking on the front wheels check the position of the brake lever. If moving toward off stops the click. Hold that **** thing at off and limp to the nearest toolbox.

I drilled a hole in the brake lever big enough to stick a zip tie through and stuck a small bolt in the green above... The zip tie hangs on the slightly backed out bolt and prevents the lever from drifting (or me doing something stupid). Now it's lift to flick the zip tie off... Then set the brake.

 

[MossRoad]

Nice, simple workaround for that brake handle. Mine works loose about every 2 years. Then I have to find the sweet spot between way-too-tight and not-tight-enough. Takes several tries.