Why would I want or not want a "float" on a rear remote?
- Thread starter sixdogs
- Start date
- Views: 16811
ericm979
Super Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2016
- Messages
- 5,799
- Location
- Santa Cruz Mountains CA, Southern OR
- Tractor
- Branson 3725H Deere 5105
Another use for float is on ditch bank flail mowers. There's two sets of cyinders, one that extends the mower to the side and another that sets the angle of the mower head. That one needs float so it will follow the contour of the ground.
Sometimes float (or detent for operating other hydraulic equipment like a log splitter) can be added to existing valves with a kit.
Sometimes float (or detent for operating other hydraulic equipment like a log splitter) can be added to existing valves with a kit.
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 32,246
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
When disconnecting a rear remote tool I put the circuit into float before uncoupling. This releases any pressure in the circuit. So barring heat expansion the tool witth recouple easier.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Well it would help if you told us and idea of what you want the second remote for? And what do you use your first remote with? And is it a float?
Simplest answer is ....get float. There is no difference in operating a valve with float and one without. The float just adds an extra feature IF it is ever needed. But effects nothing else.
Mtnveiwranch gives an excellent reason for wanting float on a side link doing road work. Probably not related to his area but most certainly related to ohio....same principal as he describes but moving snow with a rear blade. Sure the 3PH control the up-down to follow the contour of the area to be plowed.....but it offers no left-right contour-following ability.
Float can also be used on the toplink. How many threads do we see on here about people suggesting putting a piece of chain in place of the toplink to allow the tail of an implement (specifically bushhog) to follow better. Many dont understand this, because MOST newer mowers have this built in. Either a swinging toplink clevis, or a chain from the a-frame to deck...or some other type of pivot. But there are still MANY MANY old cutters out there that are rigid. Ever seen old (lighter duty) cutters with the straps that go to the deck all bent up? .....Yep thats because someone tried to cross a swale or something and the tailwheel had no ability to raise independently.
Another time I like float is when pulling the transport disc. On a second pass, when I want more smooting action and less penetration.....I let the transport wheels float. Basically making the disc lighter....but not allowing the wheels to raise the disc's in the air if the ground is a little rolling.
You may get a float valve and NEVER use the float function. Which is fine....doesnt hurt you one bit in any other function. But for the little cost difference, its there if you ever need it.
Simplest answer is ....get float. There is no difference in operating a valve with float and one without. The float just adds an extra feature IF it is ever needed. But effects nothing else.
Mtnveiwranch gives an excellent reason for wanting float on a side link doing road work. Probably not related to his area but most certainly related to ohio....same principal as he describes but moving snow with a rear blade. Sure the 3PH control the up-down to follow the contour of the area to be plowed.....but it offers no left-right contour-following ability.
Float can also be used on the toplink. How many threads do we see on here about people suggesting putting a piece of chain in place of the toplink to allow the tail of an implement (specifically bushhog) to follow better. Many dont understand this, because MOST newer mowers have this built in. Either a swinging toplink clevis, or a chain from the a-frame to deck...or some other type of pivot. But there are still MANY MANY old cutters out there that are rigid. Ever seen old (lighter duty) cutters with the straps that go to the deck all bent up? .....Yep thats because someone tried to cross a swale or something and the tailwheel had no ability to raise independently.
Another time I like float is when pulling the transport disc. On a second pass, when I want more smooting action and less penetration.....I let the transport wheels float. Basically making the disc lighter....but not allowing the wheels to raise the disc's in the air if the ground is a little rolling.
You may get a float valve and NEVER use the float function. Which is fine....doesnt hurt you one bit in any other function. But for the little cost difference, its there if you ever need it.
MossRoad
Super Moderator
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
- Messages
- 57,887
- Location
- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
Until you put it in float by accident and drop your work on the ground.
LouNY
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2015
- Messages
- 12,153
- Location
- Greenwich, NY
- Tractor
- Branson 8050, IH 574, Oliver 1550 Diesel Utility (traded in on Branson) NH 8160. Kioti CK2620SECH
That would be no different then powering it down unintentionally. If you are going to screw up you will regardless of what you are using.
It is almost impossible to have to many remotes and they should be a mix of float and detented.
/pine
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2009
- Messages
- 12,450
IMO the best option is (at least) two remotes...one with float and one with a standard hold detent...
The possibility of engaging a detent position by accident is a viable concern especially if the lever(s) are in a position where they can get bumped inadvertently...
Some valves allow the detent mechanisms to be removed and replaced with a common bottom cap...I have a standard hold detent I can put on my thumb grapple valve when I am using a hydraulic winch...
The possibility of engaging a detent position by accident is a viable concern especially if the lever(s) are in a position where they can get bumped inadvertently...
Some valves allow the detent mechanisms to be removed and replaced with a common bottom cap...I have a standard hold detent I can put on my thumb grapple valve when I am using a hydraulic winch...
RickB
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2000
- Messages
- 15,143
- Location
- Up the road from Dollar General WNC
- Tractor
- Just a Scag
I’m not going to play “what if”. Have some level of awareness. Get the valve with float.
MossRoad
Super Moderator
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
- Messages
- 57,887
- Location
- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
It's not playing. Until he says what he has plans to use it for, it's a legitimate question and concern. Heck, he might want to run a motor with it, for all we know.