Will an ''85 580d extendahoe mount to a '70 580ck tractor?

[jomar215]

I just bought a wonderfully restored 1970 Case 580ck without a hoe. I have arranged to procure an extendahoe of of a 1985 580d. My question: anybody know for sure that it'll mount right up? I'm knew to the 580 world.

More info: I can weld, and - like every good Frenchman - I can tinker. But what dont I know?? Thanks in everybody!

 

[jomar215]

Even more info: I've looked on the online parts store and have found the part numbers to certain parts of the 580d, but the 580ck is only listed as a tractor and I can't find any numbers for the attachments.

 

[jomar215]

Find something, maybe? The model backhoe for the 580ck was the 33s. It had a sub frame with 4 bolts that mounted to the rear of the tractor.

I think.

 

[BukitCase]

Is that your tractor in the first pic, and if so does it have ANYTHING on the back? 3 point hitch, PTO shaft, ???

It would help if you were to post a rear pic - this is what the 3ph looks like for the 580B, I have one I bought with a Gannon box blade about 12 years ago, and I was told at the time it actually came off a 530 tractor in another state -

My 580B is a ways away right now, but if you post a pic of your tractor from the back I may be able to help. I CAN tell you with probably 90% certainty that IF yours has a PTO shaft sticking out, a hoe will probably NOT fit without finding a rear transaxle cover, opening the transaxle and removing the PTO parts and installing the flat cover - that's why I gave up on making mine a "do everything" machine and just do all PTO implements with a different tractor... Steve

 

[jomar215]

Is that your tractor in the first pic, and if so does it have ANYTHING on the back? 3 point hitch, PTO shaft, ???

It would help if you were to post a rear pic - this is what the 3ph looks like for the 580B, I have one I bought with a Gannon box blade about 12 years ago, and I was told at the time it actually came off a 530 tractor in another state -

My 580B is a ways away right now, but if you post a pic of your tractor from the back I may be able to help. I CAN tell you with probably 90% certainty that IF yours has a PTO shaft sticking out, a hoe will probably NOT fit without finding a rear transaxle cover, opening the transaxle and removing the PTO parts and installing the flat cover - that's why I gave up on making mine a "do everything" machine and just do all PTO implements with a different tractor... Steve

Unfortunately, I haven't taken full ownership of the 580ck, yet, or I would post pictures. I was supposed to go get it tomorrow morning, but then my wife decided to go ahead and start labor about a week and a half early. So, it's going to have to wait a few days.

The 580ck is bare bones behind the seat - no 3ph. There is a cab, though .... So I went and bought the 580d extendahoe. Here's a picture of its mounting bracket.




I was able to find a junker CK down the road from a job site I'm working on. Here's a picture of its mounting bracket.



The CK includes a frame rail that runs from the backhoe to the under side of the front of the tractor. Here's a picture.



Essentially, on either backhoe there are 2 pins on top (one per side) and 2 pins on bottom. On the d, these pins engage right on to the backhoe which includes a big knuckle-ma-bob-thingy. On the CK, the knuckle is replaced with a sort of intermediary subframe. It's really not to complicated. It even appears as though the pins are close to in the same position and distance apart, but without the 2 side by side I can't say for certain.

I found a backhoe - far away - that includes the subframe assembly. So, I can either bolt on the CK hoe and plan on replacing every seal on the hoe, because it leaks. Or, I can use the subframe designed for my tractor and mount the d extendahoe with an undetermined amount of fabrication. But with the subframe already installed from the other hoe, it should be much more straightforward.

Any thoughts? The extendahoe is probably 15-20% larger than the traditional CK hoe. Could that pose an unforeseen problem? Added strain? Etc?

 

[BukitCase]

Here's a pic of a partly disassembled 580B like mine, this one's owned by a Canadian and DOES have the extendahoe, same exact subframe as mine, so the extenda shouldn't be a problem -

Shop Floor Talk

But your pic of the hoe you bought looks different than my mount. Dunno if it's a different angle or what, guess you're gonna have to either do some onsite measuring or find someone who knows more about the different series than I do... Steve

 

[jomar215]

YES IT WILL - with some effort .....

So, it's on. It took some doing, though. The bottom mount had to be shortened and I had to recreate the insert for the lower pins, but the width was perfect. The to mount I had to fabricate new, as it turns out I didn't have them at all ..... It was tough lining things up, and at one point I managed to get stuck trying to maneuver the tractor into position, but 2 new brackets, 2 hoses, and it's in.

The extend-a-hoe is great! The whole thing is probably a little heavy for the tractor, but the front bucket was custom made and is about 15-20% larger to begin with and it seems to help. All in all, it's on, works, and I'm happy.

 

[BukitCase]

Looks like it'll work, but I'd keep a close eye on your fabbed upper mount setup - the originals on my 580B have a full clevis on the bottom of the tensioning rod - at least 1/2", possibly 3/4" thick steel, haven't looked in a while - those are bored thru for the pins, this design puts the rod CENTERED on the pull force. The rod itself is 1" diameter, the upper end is FINE thread and passes THROUGH the bored out center of the upper mount arm. The rod threads are long enough to have nuts/washers on BOTH SIDES of the upper swing mounts.

Spec in my service manual for those mounts says to set the lower pins in the half-moon shaped lower locating slots on the sub frames (I made up a pair of 6' extender hoses with QD's so I can use the hoe's hydraulics to make these steps MUCH easier while re-attaching) - Then you run the lower nuts down the tensioning rods far enough to stay out of the way, tighten the UPPER nuts to 250 ft lbs, then run the lower nuts up snug against the bottom of the upper swing mounts, and finally tighten the UPPER nuts to 450 ft lbs.

When I got serious with the hoe, I found that they left one step OUT of the procedure; the hoe mounts got some play in them after working it. So the next time the hoe got swapped for the factory 3PH (and back) I did the 250 lb ft step, then exercised the hoe back and forth a bit, then RE-torqued to 250 - I then just ran the lower nuts up BY HAND before torquing the upper nuts to 450. Seemed to help keeping the slop out of the mount.

My main point is - this connection needs to be RIGID, or things are gonna break - these machines are built to be able to pick the entire weight of the tractor and hoe completely off the ground using just the hydraulics, and they WILL - IIRC, total weight of the 580B (sequel to the CK) with the standard bucket and the hoe is 12.500 pounds.

If your mount fab is smaller than original (looks that way in the pics) and the tensioning rods aren't capable of holding, you may find the mount failing BEFORE the hydraulics bypass.

Don't get me wrong, you got it adapted and working; I only want to keep you (and any bystanders) safe - when equipment that heavy "gets loose", ANYTHING can happen and it isn't usually funny... Steve