Will this idea work to backflush a "shallow well" ?

[super55]

http://activerain.com/image_store/uploads/4/1/8/2/8/ar123147754382814.jpg


I tried to load an image but was unable to get it to attach so the best I could do is post the link of what the well layout is similar too. As far as I know this what the layout is so the well really doesn't have a casing so to speak or a foot valve or check valve. If it does have a casing it is buried somewhere and will have to dig around and look for it.

I know my dad did tell me when the hit the water they had a **** of a time keeping the bore open from so much water flowing out so it might have been a issue where they could only drop a sandpoint down and then the packing to save the well instead of having to plug it. I think the guy that drilled it years ago is still alive and he was friend of my dad when they were younger so it might be better for me to try and do a research with what I got before attempting any repairs.

 

[turnkey4099]

http://activerain.com/image_store/uploads/4/1/8/2/8/ar123147754382814.jpg


I tried to load an image but was unable to get it to attach so the best I could do is post the link of what the well layout is similar too. As far as I know this what the layout is so the well really doesn't have a casing so to speak or a foot valve or check valve. If it does have a casing it is buried somewhere and will have to dig around and look for it.

I know my dad did tell me when the hit the water they had a **** of a time keeping the bore open from so much water flowing out so it might have been a issue where they could only drop a sandpoint down and then the packing to save the well instead of having to plug it. I think the guy that drilled it years ago is still alive and he was friend of my dad when they were younger so it might be better for me to try and do a research with what I got before attempting any repairs.

That's about what I pictured from your descriptions. Just for what it's worth. your sand point apparentlyi is at 160 ft depth. To push water back out of it will take on the order of 80psi just to equal the pressure that is already down there. YOu are talking a serious compressor.

Harry K

 

[s219]

The craftsman air compressor I was thinking of initially using can only push 6.2 cfm at 40 psi and then 5.2 at 90. I know I won't get a lot of volume with the compressor but hopefully it will be enough to break any sediment off.

I don't think that compressor is big enough to have any real effect. I have a much larger compressor (about 50% higher CFM) and use every bit of it's capacity to blow out irrigation lines (for winterization). Those lines are only 1" and probably 100-120 ft long at the most.

Also, be careful if it's an oil-less compressor -- they are not intended to run continuously. My compressor would try to run continuously if I let it, but I am careful to take breaks between blowing out sprinkler zones, to let it cool down.

 

[super55]

I talked to my dad about the well again and cleared up some issues. The well is definitely 2" with a sand tip. Apparently when they pounded it in back in '63 they figured they were going to hit the vein that the neighbors have only 75' away at 40'. After they reached 100' they couldn't get the pipe out so they just kept going deeper and hit water at 160. Then apparently they dropped another screen inside with some type of compression type or cam lock down at the point. Apparently this was pretty typical for the way wells were done in the area almost 50 years ago.

This well was never drilled in it was merely jettied and pounded in so I doubt there is even any packing around the well tip most likely it is just in a sand bed.

Removing/replacing the secondary screen is probably next to impossible as I am sure 50 years of use and corrosion have taken there toll on it.
I don't know if I would be able to get chemicals down the well to break up the sediment since If I can get 3 gal a min flow from a spigot I can only assume that finding removing the cap from the well would give me significantly more flow and possibly issues of getting the cap back on and to seal properly. Besides I would really hate to contaminate the well.

I agree that I doubt my compressor is up to the challenge. I might have to go and rent a trailer compressor. I really like the idea of using a trash pump to back flush the the screens. The high volume/low pressure seems like it might be safer than blasting it and possibly punching a large hole in the screen from corrosion. Only question is I don't know how much water will actually move in the well before everything equalizes from a pump that has a maximum of 40 psi.

Maybe I could rig up some type of fitting and have the local fire dept use there pumper. Than no pressure or volume issues.

 

[Egon]

Removing/replacing the secondary screen is probably next to impossible as I am sure 50 years of use and corrosion have taken there toll on it.
I don't know if I would be able to get chemicals down the well to break up the sediment since If I can get 3 gal a min flow from a spigot I can only assume that finding removing the cap from the well would give me significantly more flow and possibly issues of getting the cap back on and to seal properly. Besides I would really hate to contaminate the well.

What is the static pressure at the top of the well? This may determine the type of pump required for back flushing.

What will you use for water supply for back flushing? Will it be contamination free?

Well head: you could place a vertical manifold on it that has tees with valves and a vertical that is full open with a full open valve. A flow thru plug can be used for the installation.

 

[super55]

What is the static pressure at the top of the well? This may determine the type of pump required for back flushing.

What will you use for water supply for back flushing? Will it be contamination free?

Well head: you could place a vertical manifold on it that has tees with valves and a vertical that is full open with a full open valve. A flow thru plug can be used for the installation.


I am not sure what the pressure at the well head but there is a spigot within 15 feet of the well and it puts out 3 gpm as for psi I am not sure but I would say it's between 5-8 psi. It is reduced to 1/2" and probably 6 feet higher. I am the cap it has to be less than 10.

backflushing water would be water from the well itself. I would just fill up a 55 gal poly tank that has never had any chemicals in it. Once it went empty I figured I could hook the inlet to the well and pump out debris and once it was clear again fill the resevior back up.

The manifold idea did cross my mind especially after I found this brush called a wirehog designed especially for cleaning wells. I am just not sure how well they would work for cleaning screens and I still have to figure out where the well head is located but best guess is it's 4' underground.

 

[Egon]

Ok, a manifold is installed and the casing get's the Brush Treatment. What happens to the solid scale that gets knocked off?

It falls down to the bottom and gets caught ?? In the screen that was installed in the original well?

 

[jbooth]

When living around Wichita KS., set ups like the picture you posted were very common. It was customary to fire a .22 caliber round down the pipe to clear the "sand point". The shock would clear the screens. Never done it myself but can verify it did help on wells that I observed. Not sure how it would work on an artesian well where the water is at the top of the pipe/casing. Another posible option might be to hook up one of those small tanks that set the beads on stubborn tires.

 

[super55]

Darn it Egon your right scratch that idea. I don't know if a .22 will work but my brother in-law is EOD in the army. Maybe he could rig me up a depth charge. :thumbsup: The only bead setter we use around here booth is starting fluid.

I'll probably just end up trying to back flush it once see if it works and if it doesn't increase flow it's off to Plan B. Which is using what natural flow I do have to fill a 1000gal tank as a reservoir and then set up a completely separate pump system to run the irrigation. At 3 gpm natural flow it will take me 5.5 hours to fill 1000 gallons and that will give me roughly 15-20 minutes in each irrigation zone several times a day if I choose. I was really hoping since the well pushed more water at one time I could get it's flow back but it might be safer not to temp fate and only make things worse and lose flow altogether. The well still adequately meets the demands of the household use but was obviously never intended to meet the demands of an irrigation system. (The pump just can't draw the water fast enough and I don't think stepping up to a 1 hp jet pump will help much) It's going to be at least a month or so before I can even attempt this project but when I do I will do a follow up post as to the results of my endeavor. Until then I'll keep researching away.

 

[KYErik]

How about finding a cheap used 500- 1000 gallon plastic tank and slowly filling it overnight when no one needs to use the water. Then figure out a way to use gravity to water the grass (though it couldn't be applied as evenly as with a sprinkler).