window installation

[1930]

I plan to build my own home, its tough to find anyone that isnt just a salesperson and possibly impossible to find information of any kind at the big box stores.
Can someone here tell me the differences in window varieties that I should be considering when building a block home?
Im not that clear on installation, I replaced the windows in my current home a few years back and I cannot remember if the windows were screwed directly into the concrete block or if there was some sort of a wooden strip?
Ill need too of course have an idea of how I will need to set up this new structure to accept these new windows.
When buying new windows online I have the choice of buying a replacement window and a new construction window, when buying windows at Lowes or Home Depot they never ask that question, they only ask what the building structure is.
Thanks for any insight

 

[/pine]

I suggest visiting a home of similar construction (block shell etc.) that is under construction and look at how the windows are installed...it is much easier than trying to describe a detailed process...

If you live in an area that governs with a building code etc...there may be special requirements for window installations...i.e., anchoring screws etc., etc...

If the interior is going to be finished with sheetrock what is called a "window buck" is secured in the opening...the "buck" has a 45 degree angle cut along the interior edge... the window is screwed to the buck and the angle forces the sheetrock return tight against the window frame..

 

[3Ts]

Windows for concrete block are built differently from windows for wood frame houses.

For wood construction, the windows have a flange that nails or screws into the wood framing. In the case of vinyl windows, there are 2 kinds of vinyl one of them is NOT compatible with the weather proof flashing that is typically used to seal them.

For concrete construction, the windows do not have the flange, rather there are screw holes in the frame of the window. The windows can be set anywhere in the opening and then held in place with the screws. This allows an inset from the front of the wall instead of being flush as with the flange windows.

Note,
- it is possible to use the windows for concrete construction with the wood frame construction. Just have to plan accordingly. Be sure you allow for water drainage if you inset your windows.
- I have seen concrete windows used with and without wood framing, but be sure it is pressure treated and all your fasteners are ACQ rated.
- If you frame your openings with PT wood, I don't see any reason you can't use the flange style windows. The flange isn't that wide and the wood frame should be sufficient to hold it. Of course any wood framing for concrete has to be adequately anchored to the concrete before installing the windows.

 

[PILOON]

I once had to install a pre hung door in a basement area that had 1/2 poured lower foundation with blocks on upper half.
How to fasten that frame.
Lower was OK as I could use concrete nails but upper proved problematic.
Blocks wanted to split plus some were not 'end blocks'.
My DIY fix it was to spray foam which also acted as insulation and it sure glued that frame well in place, only problem was I had used the expanding type so I quickly jammed a length of 2 X 4 to keep the the opening needed.
No way that frame will ever come loose!

 

[ehcrain]

I work for a big box store and often don't need to ask if new construction or remodel windows are needed as the person ordering includes that info in their original question. You may have explained that you are building new before you even realize it, or you might have someone who doesn't think it's important to know, which it is.
The system used to design the windows asks for flange or buckless frame is needed very early on it the process, before the size is asked if i remember correctly.
If you don't trust the big box locations near you try to find a true lumber yard that can help you.

 

[1930]

Thanks for the tips, advice, experience. I would prefer to deal with a local limber outlet but the price difference is VERY substantial. My biggest fear is purchasing windows that will not pass code, as far as I know you typically cannot buy a window without a Florida approval code but I have heard stories where a window or door was purchased and the approval code had expired and was basically useless.

My smaller windows will prob never be an issue but I have one very large picture window that concerns me.

 

[3Ts]

It's been a little while (years) since I worked with code compliance so keep that in mind- Each room will need an egress window that has at least a clear opening of 22" for fire code. Depending on the width of the window frame around the movable glass you'll need a window wider than that and the bottom can not be more than 36" off the floor. You also have wind codes that you'll have to comply with. With you being in the Marion county, you're either in the 100 or 110 mph wind zone. Once you pick the windows you want, get the NOA (notice of acceptance) number off the window sticker (mfgr should have this on the window sticker and should be able to provide this ahead of time) and then look up the number and that should tell you what the expiration date of the NOA is. ( This is from my wife who worked at an architectural firm on the Space Coast in Florida).

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Are you going to brick the outside? If you are, your windows should hang out a little to catch your brick. So if no brick use a treated 2x8 and rip all the window bucks on a table saw to make sure they are 7 1/2" like the blocks. If some are narrow just flush with outside. When you build the window trimmers they can flush to the inside. Plus you'll have the window buck to nail your trim to. Cut the sides of bucks to be between top and bottom. Drive some 30 p nails from inside to outside. Knock a hole on the end of block. Fill the void around each nail with mortar as you go up. Just like you will fill for anchor bolts on top plate. Id carry a few rebar from the footing up and fill a few cavities and fill the rest with insulation before you cap it. And use a built up roof. Let your. Ceiling joist run out to your band board. Cut a seat cut on your rafter and long tip toe at corner of joist. Gives you more height where rafter goes over outside wall. More room for insulation.

 

[1930]

It's been a little while (years) since I worked with code compliance so keep that in mind- Each room will need an egress window that has at least a clear opening of 22" for fire code. Depending on the width of the window frame around the movable glass you'll need a window wider than that and the bottom can not be more than 36" off the floor. You also have wind codes that you'll have to comply with. With you being in the Marion county, you're either in the 100 or 110 mph wind zone. Once you pick the windows you want, get the NOA (notice of acceptance) number off the window sticker (mfgr should have this on the window sticker and should be able to provide this ahead of time) and then look up the number and that should tell you what the expiration date of the NOA is. ( This is from my wife who worked at an architectural firm on the Space Coast in Florida).

Can you tell me where to look up number?
Can you tell me if you see any issues with the information below. I have a meeting with architect on the first of next month, Ive been waiting weeks just to get this appointment. I dont know how many more weeks after the appointment Ill have to wait just to get some drawings and submit for permitting.
Im trying to streamline things. Thanks

 

[1930]

Is there anything else that maybe I could submit to help make his job easier and cost me less money that he may charge? Thanks