You probably should have started your very own thread, but here goes.
Ps, welcome to tbn.
Now.. You mention alternator, new coil.
I'll guess 12v.
You dont mention coil type, but ill guess true 12v as well since you don't mention a ballast resistor.
Key on, points open, should be reading 12v at coo primary.
If yes, then check points gap. .025
Make sure they open and close when cranking.
You can put a test lamp inline to coil and crank over and lamp should blink.
If yes, then check for spark at the plugs, if spark at plugs, the troubleshoot fuel. Start fluid makes trouble shooting fuel easy. If it will start and run on start fluid, but dies as soon as you quit spraying, you have a due issue.
Now, if lamp did not blink:
No lamp, check to make sure points can close and are clean, no oxide from setting up for months.
Lamp always on, make sure points are opening. If opening and you still have a solid lamp cranking, remove pigtail from condensor. If lamp goes out, condensir is shorted. Its rare, nut happens. Usual short is where the small primary wire enters the distributor from the coil, the insulator can disintegrate and short the wire to distributor case. another common fault I the copper strip from inside the distributor insulator to the points , the copper van touch the housing and short , or break and be open. Open means no lamp, short means solo lamp.
Post back with details and observations of those tests.
Hopefully it os just dirty points.
Ps if no power to coil in first test, ignition switch may be bad. Jump around it for test. Is, from, battery hot to coil.
Lastly, if you have electronic ignition, disregard this and call the ei maker for tech supt.
