Wiring FIMCO 12V 40 Gallon 3 pt Sprayer L3940

[Maibox]

Maibox, All these parts can be picked up at NAPA, or a local automotive shop. This would be a good project for a starter diy'er, fairly easy job. Need ATC in line fuse, wire terminal ends, wire, wire splice taps, bracket and plug, tie wraps, wire loom, drill and tap, and a few hours on a Saturday morning. If you need more detailed pics, just let me know.

Philip--going to give this a try today. Heading out in a bit to gather the parts. If you listen carefully around 11 am CT you might hear some cursing coming from Minnesota...:laughing:

 

[PHILIP8N]

I hope I hear some spraying from Minesota! Good luck. Philip.

 

[Maibox]

Well, after running around collecting parts for the better part of the morning (including getting a new 18V cordless drill ), I assembled the sprayer and then began the project. I was only going to hook up a 12v plug but I couldn't find any with good mounting method that I liked so I decided to follow in Philips footsteps. What sealed it was I found a 7 pin connector with a nice mounting bracket and an adapter that had a 12V plug (something like this Hopkins Multi-Tow Trailer Connector Adapter - 7-Way to 5-Wire Flat/4-Wire Flat and 12-V Power Socket Hopkins Wiring HM47675). I'm only running the one wire for now--I'm guessing I'm going to regret that decision.

I got as far as connecting to the starter when it became clear that my 12mm socket wouldn't fit in the in space and I didn't have a 12mm wrench (11mm and 13mm, of course). So back to town to get the wrench. I got the wire run back to the rear and then decided to call it quits. I wasn't sure where to mount the bracket, but in looking at Philips pictures, again, I see now where he mounted it. It's going to be a long week at work so I may not get back to it until next weekend.

 

[PHILIP8N]

Good work, almost done! Remember to unhook the negative connector from the battery before you do any electrical work, and it is also the last one to hook back up once you are done with all your electrical work. I believe I used #12 (maybe #10?) screws to attach my bracket to ROPS, so get a couple taps, tap handle, and correct size tap drill. Make sure you get all screw parts the same, either corse or fine. Let me know if you need any more pictures. Philip.

 

[Maibox]

Appreciate the help Philip.

How long of screws did you use? I got 10-24, 1/2 inch. Got the tap as well. Look like the bit size is 25, which appears to translate to 5/32" in fractional. Never used a tap before, but watched a couple of YouTube videos. Any pointers?

Thanks again.

 

[Maibox]

Doing more research. Looks like I should just go get the right drill bit--5/32 isn't all that close.

Ever used one of these? 10-24 Coarse Thread Combination Tap & Drill Bit | Fastenal

 

[PHILIP8N]

Just need screws long enough so threads go all the way through rops. Rops thickness + bracket thickness should be less than 1/2", so I believe you would be fine, just double check. I would use a #25 bit, but 5/32" is very close, only .006 larger. I would not use the combo bit, you drill at over 1000 rpm, and you tap 10 rpm, keep it simple. When you start tapping, when you feel resistance, back the tap out at least 1/2 turn. This is called breaking the chip. If you get too much resistance, and do not clear the chips, you will break the tap, and these are no fun to remove. Use a little lubricant on the tap, go slow, bring the tap all the way out to break or clean chips, and you will do fine. Philip.

 

[Maibox]

Do you recommend hand-tapping vs. using a tapping bit and drill?

 

[PHILIP8N]

I only hand tap. With your experience, I strongly suggest hand tapping too. Philip.

 

[PHILIP8N]

Just get a little T handle tap wrench. Make sure the handle can slide from side to side for close quarters work in needed. Use the handle in the center position if possible, you do not want to apply a heavy side load to the tap. Philip.