Wood deck coatings

DSM123 · Jan 27, 2014

It seems like the most damaging element here is the suns UV rays drying out the wood causing it to split. I have a wood deck off the back of the house and the part that is shaded from the house is in very good shape after 10 years. The areas that have been exposed to full sun have been replaced once already and are starting to look bad again.
I'm seeing the same with my trailer's decking and wonder what we can use to preserve them without making them too slick. I don't mind recoating every couple of years. Beats replacing the wood. I was thinking about using boiled linseed oil but I suspect it has little UV protection.

Milo · Jan 28, 2014

You are absolutely correct regarding UV degrading wood. That's why stains protect better than clear finishes. I would suggest a "penetrating" type oil stain sometimes referred to as semi-transparent. It soaks in well and leaves a bit of protective pigment in the wood pores. It'll gradually wear off rather than chip or peel like solid stains/paint, at which point just apply another coat. Do read the directions, some have paraffin type repellents in them which can repel a second coat should you attempt to apply one after the first coat completely dries.

olllotj · Jan 28, 2014

As a log home owner, I have done lots of research here. Oil based works best for me, and not the stuff at big box stores. At the big box store you will find oil based stains that allow for water clean up. (so it's not really oil based is it?)

I pressure wash with bleach, and then use a titan paint sprayer and TWP 100 stain. It has UV protectors.

TWP 100 Stain by Amteco | Free shipping on all internet orders over 100

DSM123 · Jan 28, 2014

Would a darker color stain offer better UV protection? I'm not particular to the color.

wingbone · Jan 29, 2014

Don't know a thing about it but I hear them advertising some kind of ceramic paint on the radio here. They say it's guaranteed for life but that sounds a little too good to be true.

Diamondpilot · Jan 29, 2014

wingbone said:
Don't know a thing about it but I hear them advertising some kind of ceramic paint on the radio here. They say it's guaranteed for life but that sounds a little too good to be true.

It's basically the same stuff they use on truck bed liners.

Chris

Utopia Texas · Jan 29, 2014

I just built this deck late last Summer and used a Valspar deck stain and it soaked in really well and repels water. It goes on like paint and the semi-transparent type I used shows a bit of the wood grain but contains a lot of solid particles. So far I like it much better than the translucent stains/preservatives I used on the older/ past deck. I plan to add another coat this next Spring to ensure good weatherproofing.

Diamondpilot · Jan 29, 2014

Utopia Texas said:
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=357559"/>
I just built this deck late last Summer and used a Valspar deck stain and it soaked in really well and repels water. It goes on like paint and the semi-transparent type I used shows a bit of the wood grain but contains a lot of solid particles. So far I like it much better than the translucent stains/preservatives I used on the older/ past deck. I plan to add another coat this next Spring to ensure good weatherproofing.

I thought you had to wait a full season before sealing wood?

Chris

Utopia Texas · Jan 29, 2014

In some areas that might be true but here on the Texas Gulf Coast this deck received 95F-100F temperatures for 2 months and 6 hours of hot western sunlight for 2 months before I applied the Valspar. The top decking which was treated 2X6 lumber with routed edges was screwed to the frame using furniture clamps where there was absolutely no space between the boards. Eight weeks later they all had a 1/4 inch gap between the boards so they had dried and shrunk enough to seal in my situation. Further north with moderate temperatures is a different case. In my area you can literally fry eggs on a Western facing deck for 4 months of the year from mid to late Summer.

EddieWalker · Jan 29, 2014

I've had good luck with Cabot's stain on decks for clients and have started using it on the cedar posts I use on my place. Something to consider is that if the deck is 5/4 wood, it is going to shrink for at least a year. I still use 5/4 for some things, but prefer treated 2x8's for my decking. After years in the sun, there is almost no shrinkage or cupping like you get with smaller lumber. I never use nails either. Screws for decking, bolts for joists and beams on a solid rest notched out of the posts. I only use 6x6's for posts. Nothing else remains straight. It's not about strength, it's all about how it holds up over the years and what has proven to work compared to what fails over and over again.

Eddie

deepNdirt · Jan 29, 2014

EddieWalker said:
I've had good luck with Cabot's stain on decks for clients and have started using it on the cedar posts I use on my place. Something to consider is that if the deck is 5/4 wood, it is going to shrink for at least a year. I still use 5/4 for some things, but prefer treated 2x8's for my decking. After years in the sun, there is almost no shrinkage or cupping like you get with smaller lumber. I never use nails either. Screws for decking, bolts for joists and beams on a solid rest notched out of the posts. I only use 6x6's for posts. Nothing else remains straight. It's not about strength, it's all about how it holds up over the years and what has proven to work compared to what fails over and over again.

Eddie

Hey Eddie, I like the way you build, Build to last, Fortunately for those of us who re-build the decks from the 70's & 80's,90's didn't have them built to last or we would be out of business,

Have you ever worked with Ipe materials? I'm sure you have, It's not cheap but would be an alternative to using 2x materials for the actual decking, I use it in the higher end homes, ( Country clubs homes) etc,etc, it is very durable no shrinking, and can last 100 years if properly maintained, it's likely the framing structure will give way before the decking does,

Soggy Bottom Outdoors · Jan 29, 2014

What about shingle oil or linseed oil?

DSM123 · Jan 30, 2014

I found this interesting article on deck coatings. Kind of confirms all the info here.

Finishes for Wood Decks - Professional Deck Builder Magazine

DSM123 · Jan 30, 2014

Utopia Texas said:
In some areas that might be true but here on the Texas Gulf Coast this deck received 95F-100F temperatures for 2 months and 6 hours of hot western sunlight for 2 months before I applied the Valspar. The top decking which was treated 2X6 lumber with routed edges was screwed to the frame using furniture clamps where there was absolutely no space between the boards. Eight weeks later they all had a 1/4 inch gap between the boards so they had dried and shrunk enough to seal in my situation. Further north with moderate temperatures is a different case. In my area you can literally fry eggs on a Western facing deck for 4 months of the year from mid to late Summer.

No kidding regarding the shrinkage. I built a huge deck off the back of this house and the fit of joinery was "furniture quality" as mentioned by a few friends. Six months to a year later it looked as though I eyeballed the cuts and used a chainsaw. Gaps, twist, cupping... $7K worth of crap lumber. I'm done with wood. Next house I'll pour a slab.

Milo · Jan 30, 2014

DSM123 said:
Would a darker color stain offer better UV protection? I'm not particular to the color.

Not necessarily, whether the pigment is light or dark makes no difference (for instance white zinc oxide is a very effective sunscreen). There is a minimum amount necessary, light tints usually just have more white or light pigment.

Soggy Bottom Outdoors said:
What about shingle oil or linseed oil?

Linseed oil feeds the wood well the only problem is for outdoor use it's a "food" for mildew, mold, etc. Years ago effective poison was added (trace amounts of mercury for example) but those days are long gone. The newer mildew/mold additives don't seem to be as effective but work well enough for exterior oil stains. Generally better quality exterior stain/paint has more mildew preventatives than bargain stuff.

Renze · Jan 31, 2014

Milo said:
Linseed oil feeds the wood well the only problem is for outdoor use it's a "food" for mildew, mold, etc. Years ago effective poison was added (trace amounts of mercury for example) but those days are long gone. The newer mildew/mold additives don't seem to be as effective but work well enough for exterior oil stains. Generally better quality exterior stain/paint has more mildew preventatives than bargain stuff.

Thats why i use old engine oil, in a 50/50% mix with carbolineum. For best effect, empty a bucket over it in the midst of summer so it gets soaked all up into the grain of the wood, and sweep it out with a broom.