Wood deck coatings

   / Wood deck coatings #11  
I've had good luck with Cabot's stain on decks for clients and have started using it on the cedar posts I use on my place. Something to consider is that if the deck is 5/4 wood, it is going to shrink for at least a year. I still use 5/4 for some things, but prefer treated 2x8's for my decking. After years in the sun, there is almost no shrinkage or cupping like you get with smaller lumber. I never use nails either. Screws for decking, bolts for joists and beams on a solid rest notched out of the posts. I only use 6x6's for posts. Nothing else remains straight. It's not about strength, it's all about how it holds up over the years and what has proven to work compared to what fails over and over again.

Eddie

Hey Eddie, I like the way you build, Build to last, Fortunately for those of us who re-build the decks from the 70's & 80's,90's didn't have them built to last or we would be out of business,;)
Have you ever worked with Ipe materials? I'm sure you have, It's not cheap but would be an alternative to using 2x materials for the actual decking, I use it in the higher end homes, ( Country clubs homes) etc,etc, it is very durable no shrinking, and can last 100 years if properly maintained, it's likely the framing structure will give way before the decking does,
 
   / Wood deck coatings
  • Thread Starter
#14  
In some areas that might be true but here on the Texas Gulf Coast this deck received 95F-100F temperatures for 2 months and 6 hours of hot western sunlight for 2 months before I applied the Valspar. The top decking which was treated 2X6 lumber with routed edges was screwed to the frame using furniture clamps where there was absolutely no space between the boards. Eight weeks later they all had a 1/4 inch gap between the boards so they had dried and shrunk enough to seal in my situation. Further north with moderate temperatures is a different case. In my area you can literally fry eggs on a Western facing deck for 4 months of the year from mid to late Summer.

No kidding regarding the shrinkage. I built a huge deck off the back of this house and the fit of joinery was "furniture quality" as mentioned by a few friends. Six months to a year later it looked as though I eyeballed the cuts and used a chainsaw. Gaps, twist, cupping... $7K worth of crap lumber. I'm done with wood. Next house I'll pour a slab.
 
   / Wood deck coatings #15  
Would a darker color stain offer better UV protection? I'm not particular to the color.

Not necessarily, whether the pigment is light or dark makes no difference (for instance white zinc oxide is a very effective sunscreen). There is a minimum amount necessary, light tints usually just have more white or light pigment.


What about shingle oil or linseed oil?

Linseed oil feeds the wood well the only problem is for outdoor use it's a "food" for mildew, mold, etc. Years ago effective poison was added (trace amounts of mercury for example) but those days are long gone. The newer mildew/mold additives don't seem to be as effective but work well enough for exterior oil stains. Generally better quality exterior stain/paint has more mildew preventatives than bargain stuff.
 
   / Wood deck coatings #16  
Linseed oil feeds the wood well the only problem is for outdoor use it's a "food" for mildew, mold, etc. Years ago effective poison was added (trace amounts of mercury for example) but those days are long gone. The newer mildew/mold additives don't seem to be as effective but work well enough for exterior oil stains. Generally better quality exterior stain/paint has more mildew preventatives than bargain stuff.

Thats why i use old engine oil, in a 50/50% mix with carbolineum. For best effect, empty a bucket over it in the midst of summer so it gets soaked all up into the grain of the wood, and sweep it out with a broom.
 
   / Wood deck coatings #17  
Olllotj, the Amteco web site says TWP 100 cant be shipped to NY and about 15 other states?? I see you're in NY. How do you get it?
 

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