Wood Finishing Help Needed

[bmac]

I know y'all are going to be glad when we finally finish this house so I'll quit asking questions. But please bare with me for a few more weeks.

The current dilema involves an antique washstand that we are going to use in the powder room. Currently, it is just a piece of furniture. But we are going to drill holes to mount a bowl-type sink and for the plumbilng fixture.

We expect the washstand to get wet from folks washing their hands. And we suspect the finish that is on there now (please don't ask me what it is) would get spotted if it got wet. So, we are thinking that a few coats of polyurethane might protect the wood. The current finish is in pretty good shape. Being lazy, I really don't want to strip the old finish off. I am only concerned about the "counter top" portion as that is the area that is most likely to get wet.

So the questions are (a) are we on the right track with polyurethane and (b) without knowing what kind of finish is on there now, might there be some compatibility issues between whatever the current finish is and the poly? (c) do I HAVE to remove the current finish before adding the polyurethane and, (d) should I use an oil or water-based polyurethane?

Thanks for your help (again).

Attached is a picture of the washstand.

 

[bmac]

Here's another view with a bowl sink on it. The is the 2nd sink my wife picked out and returned. They looked good to her in the store, but not so good when actually placed on the washstand. The third (and final) sink has been ordered but has not arrived yet.

 

[Cliff_Johns]

It looks like a nice old cabinet. Kind of sad to see it go.

Still, if you want to put a waterproof surface on it, this is what I would do.

1. Wash thoroughly with mineral spirits. This will take off any wax that may have been applied and also clean it very well.

2. Put on a coat of shellac, extra blonde if you can get it. You don't want to affect the color. Shellac will bond to any of the old finishes, and it will seal the piece. Shellac can also have any finish applied over it. It makes a good interface between two finishes.

3. Sand the shellac with 150 or 200 grit paper. Sand lightly, by hand, you're just getting a smooth surface, not removing the finish.

4. Apply your poly finish coat. For that piece, I would use a coat of high gloss for hardness (maybe two), then a coat of satin so it doesn't look all shinny and plastic.

Just my technique, others may have techniques different and just as good.

Cliff

 

[ToadHill]

I'd sand the top lightly and apply a 2 part clear epoxy. I know this is what my dad used on several bars he installed a few years back. It has a high shine but you can set anything you want on it without leaving any marks.

 

[EddieWalker]

bmac,

You always got something interesting going on!!!

I don't know about the finish yo have or what you can put over it that will work. I'll leave that to the experts here.

My thought was to not even bother with all that sanding and finishing, and just get a glass shop to cut a piece of glass to the demensions of the coutner. Have them roudn off the edges and cut a hole for the bowl. I'd guess a couple hundred bucks.

Just a thought,
Eddie

 

[scott_vt]

Mornin Bmac,
Boy that is a nice old oak stand. I think you have some real good advice from these guys. If you go Cliffs route, between step #3 and #4 use a tack cloth to remove and sanding residue and then your final finish coat. I also like Eddies idea, they can cut glass to any configuration these days! You could keep the original looking finish, which by the looks of it was fumed with ammonia. The only way to duplicate that is to do it yourself for obvious reasons. That technique was used quite frequently during the Gustav Stickley furniture era. Just some rambling on my part /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Good luck on what ever you decide.

scotty

 

[bmac]

Thanks for the reply, Cliff.

<font color="blue"> It looks like a nice old cabinet. Kind of sad to see it go. </font>

Its not going anywhere. It will be put to good use.

I've seen shellac is some wood worker's catalaogs but wouldn't have a clue about finding it locally. Any suggestions?

 

[bmac]

ToadHill,

I saw a show this weekend where guys making a table with a rock surface used epox. Didn't think about that option of this project. Thanks.

 

[bmac]

Good morining, Eddie.

<font color="blue"> My thought was to not even bother with all that sanding and finishing, and just get a glass shop to cut a piece of glass to the demensions of the coutner. </font>

Glass was our original plan. For some reason my wife wanted to consider something else. Maybe we'll revisit the glass idea. Thanks.

We originally were going to get an antique-looking washstand from our plumbing supplier. It was already finished with a waterproof surface. However, the price was pretty steep. We found this antique thing and it was about 1/3 the price of the one the plumbing place had. And, it has the mirror attached that the other did not. We'll see how it works out.

Thanks for your help, as always.

 

[Marlowe]

What I've done in the past when I'm not sure of compatibility between old and new finishes is to try a small area in an insignificant area, like the underside of the piece you're working on.

I've never tried water based poly. My guess would be that the oil based stuff would be more water resistant. When I do exterior paint on new wood I always use oil based primer. It just seems to hold up much better in a damp environment. Nothing scientific here, just seat of the pants experience.

Good luck with it.

Tom