Wood Finishing Help Needed
- Thread starter bmac
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guyrj33
Silver Member
Water based polyurethane is NOT waterproof. Water will seep thru it.
You could use epoxy, look for one made for clearcoating.
A couple layers of varnish on top of the epoxy will give you the look of mile deep varnish. If you do varnish over epoxy wash the epoxy blush off with warm water before varnishing.
You could use epoxy, look for one made for clearcoating.
A couple layers of varnish on top of the epoxy will give you the look of mile deep varnish. If you do varnish over epoxy wash the epoxy blush off with warm water before varnishing.
beenthere
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guyjr33 has the right idea IMO, and what I would do. Over the shellac, instead of the polyurethane (which is mixed with varnish so it stays fluid in a can) I would go with a two-part epoxy pour-on finish. It will be much thicker and much more durable finish.
So, if I use the epoxy, I still have to use shellac first, just like with the polyurethane?
I called a place that sells a clear coat 2 part epoxy. Tried to get someone in tech support but couls not. So, the receptionist answered my questions (to the best of her ability, anyhow). She didn't say anything about prep work, so I asked "do I need to at least sand the surface first"? "Oh, yeah, you probably ought to sand it". When I asked about containing the flood layer of epoxy, she said you don't. "just let it spill over the edge and come back later to clean up the drips with sandpaper".
So, while she was a nice lady, and while she may be dead-on with her answers, I'm not confident that I have all of the information I need to do this.
Thanks to all who have offered help.
I called a place that sells a clear coat 2 part epoxy. Tried to get someone in tech support but couls not. So, the receptionist answered my questions (to the best of her ability, anyhow). She didn't say anything about prep work, so I asked "do I need to at least sand the surface first"? "Oh, yeah, you probably ought to sand it". When I asked about containing the flood layer of epoxy, she said you don't. "just let it spill over the edge and come back later to clean up the drips with sandpaper".
So, while she was a nice lady, and while she may be dead-on with her answers, I'm not confident that I have all of the information I need to do this.
Thanks to all who have offered help.
guyrj33
Silver Member
check http://www.westsystem.com/ for lots of epoxy info. Also google system three epoxy for more options.
I don't think you need to shelac under epoxy, but you will want to de-wax.
I don't think you need to shelac under epoxy, but you will want to de-wax.
midlf
Platinum Member
I have doubts the glass top would provide a satisfactory solution for this project. Being under a basin, soon or later water will get spilled on the glass, run to the edge and then seep under the glass. Most likely ruining the wood finish under the glass.
goaliedad
Gold Member
That 's one nice looking piece of furniture! It's good that you are taking time to do this right. I agree that the glass top is not going to be the answer. Epoxy certainly will give you a very durable finish, but I would hesitate- the issue of how to do just the top... I would visit a good paint paint store and talk to them about a high quality varnish- spar or marine? They should be able to walk you thru from there. I would be very carefull when cleaning the top- alot of the color could come off, then you will need to stain it to match. Not an easy task. Good luck and make sure to show is the "finished" project.
BigDamnFool
Member
Take a couple of small pieces of oak and stain them to a color near what you have. Then try the poly on one and the epoxy on the other and see which one you like best. You can buy small, fairly inexpesive ($20 for everything you'll need) amounts of these at most woodworking stores and even good hardware stores. It's a small price to pay to know you won't be expeirmenting with a nice piece of furniture.
Myself, I like the shellac and poly method. Use oil based and add 2 or 3 more coats than you think you need. Your dealing with water at a sink and a lot of splashing. The extra coats will give more protection to the wood and add more depth to the finish. Sand progressively lighter and with finer sandpaper with each coat and you'll have a finish like glass. Make sure to sand with a block.
The epoxy is a really durable product that stands up to all kinds of abuse but to me looks to plasticy. My father used epoxy on some hickory slabs he used for countertops in his hunting cabin and though they are indestructable, they look like plastic dipped pictures of real wood. The other downside is it is really hard to remove once on.
Good luck with the project.
Tiny
Myself, I like the shellac and poly method. Use oil based and add 2 or 3 more coats than you think you need. Your dealing with water at a sink and a lot of splashing. The extra coats will give more protection to the wood and add more depth to the finish. Sand progressively lighter and with finer sandpaper with each coat and you'll have a finish like glass. Make sure to sand with a block.
The epoxy is a really durable product that stands up to all kinds of abuse but to me looks to plasticy. My father used epoxy on some hickory slabs he used for countertops in his hunting cabin and though they are indestructable, they look like plastic dipped pictures of real wood. The other downside is it is really hard to remove once on.
Good luck with the project.
Tiny
MarkV
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Bmac, I’ll put in a vote for oil based polyurethane being resistant enough for the project. I am in the wood flooring business and we have done several bar tops over the years that held up to alcohol and water well.
Some what local to you is www.highlandhardware.com in Atlanta, the Virginia Highlands area, and I think they will have the shellac that was suggested. They are a specialty wood working store and may well have suggestions on finishes.
MarkV
Some what local to you is www.highlandhardware.com in Atlanta, the Virginia Highlands area, and I think they will have the shellac that was suggested. They are a specialty wood working store and may well have suggestions on finishes.
MarkV
scott_vt
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Mornin Steve,
I dont doubt that eventually water would get under the glass top, but my thought would be to use a brown tinted waterprooof caulk around the glass edges to prevent this from happening. I would think that would work fine if done properly and would have a nice appearance.
While we are talking about the glass top, you can buy the glass in ant thickness with beveled edges and if you really want to get fancy the glass could be etched on to put your wifes favorite flower design also. Just a thought.
scotty
I dont doubt that eventually water would get under the glass top, but my thought would be to use a brown tinted waterprooof caulk around the glass edges to prevent this from happening. I would think that would work fine if done properly and would have a nice appearance.
While we are talking about the glass top, you can buy the glass in ant thickness with beveled edges and if you really want to get fancy the glass could be etched on to put your wifes favorite flower design also. Just a thought.
scotty
