Wood heat and high oil prices

[tawilson]

I've been trying to figure out the best way to make use of the wood available to me to heat my house. Now I have a fuel oil boiler and would like an outdoor wood boiler to use in conjunction. A friend told me he's knows people who have built their own using cast iron radiators as the coil. I've got some of them kicking around and would like to explore the idea. It sounds doable. I would just put it on a loop through my existing boiler, and change the slight glycol mix I have now to something that could stand the cold. A lot more to it than that, I have just begun to think it over.

 

[tawilson]

I've been trying to figure out the best way to make use of the wood available to me to heat my house. Now I have a fuel oil boiler and would like an outdoor wood boiler to use in conjunction. A friend told me he's knows people who have built their own using cast iron radiators as the coil. I've got some of them kicking around and would like to explore the idea. It sounds doable. I would just put it on a loop through my existing boiler, and change the slight glycol mix I have now to something that could stand the cold. A lot more to it than that, I have just begun to think it over. Anyone know of a site to help?

 

[Varmintmist]

www.centralboiler.com
www.hydrofire.com

I have the hydrofire 36 SS and it heats 3700 sq feet no problem. I have the dual fuel one which you wouldnt need as you already have a furnace.

 

[turnkey4099]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I burn about 6-7 cords of firewood each year, using 2 older model Consolidated Dutchwest freestanding stoves....have been doing so for about 18 years. Fortunately, I have my own woodlots and hedgerows that I've been clearing out. Folks who burn with oil in my neighborhood are expecting to pay anywhere from $2-3K this winter for fuel oil. Firewood suppliers are asking anywhere from $130-$175/ cord. I'm fortunate I have a free wood supply /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif and the gumption to do my own harvesting.

...Bob )</font>

I have been heating almost solely with wood for 30 years now. Burn mostly willow which I get for free by either clear cutting or thinning overgrown stands for farmers. Willow, while not a great firewood, is very economical BTU wise as I can get all I can use within a few miles of the house. Usually out and back with a load ready for splitting my 1pm.

Harry K

 

[tawilson]

I ordered the firebox and outer casing today. I'm a tinknocker, so have connections. The firebox will be 16 gauge welded stainless, 3'' of insulation, and a galvanized outer skin. I'm going to mount the radiator above a baffle so the flames will not directly hit it. I have a couple of other radiators I plan on putting in the basement and can run this loop right thru. I was thinking of using a spare water heater for storage, but the mass of these radiators should accomplish the same thing, plus put some heat into the basement. I figure an aquastat on the loop near the wood boiler controlling a pump and control valve to cut off if the temp gets to low(fire goes out), and have my inside boiler take over then.

 

[LarryRB]

Before you run out and drop hard earned money on a multi fuel, better check with the local fire chief. I was a deputy fire chief in a small Mass town and remember when these were outlawed as new installs.. The fire academy in Rowe has many files on houses that burned to the ground with multi fuels... Almost all losses were done during the day while people were at work/school. You can check with "This Old House" and see a whole series where the TOH master builder Tom Silva' his brother, also a full time TOH builder but behind the scenes, lost his home to a wood/fuel furnace,. After that show (about 4 yrs ago) the push to outlaw them was really strong. Another thing is, even if your local fire chief says it is OK, better check home insurance carrier,, I'll bet you they say a flat NO..

 

[woodlot]

Sonunds like you've got things figured out for too low of a temp in the firebox, but what about too hot. How will you knock down the fire to prevent boil-over?

 

[tawilson]

I plan on putting a motorized damper on the combustion air inlet, in the normally closed position so in case of power failure it will shut down air to the fire. I've got to pick a few brains to figure out the best way to control it, possibly with a temp sensor on the supply line. I'm also thinking using a 3-way control valve so the pump continuously circulates, even when the wood fire goes out, it just won't go thru my oil fired boiler. Thanks for the response, any input is appreciated.

 

[penokee]

Have been partialy heating with wood since 1970, 5 different buildings during that time. Open fireplace (esthetics only), fireplace insert (slightly better), space heater (nice) and currently an add-on (best). The most important thing in my opinion is a good safe chimney and clean it on a regular basis. Many chimney fires from cresote buildup. This winter I'm afraid natural gas prices are going thru the roof. The heat from burning wood can't be beat. If one of my daughters comes home to visit and no wood fire going she'll beat it down the basement and fire up. Working in the woods making firewood can be a real joy if you don't make it work (call it fun work). Installed a high efficency Carrier gas furnace this summenr, w/PVC exhaust, so only wood stove into masonry chimney. Any/all wood burns - just takes more of some of the softer wood. Stay warm.
penokee /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[HGM]

Penokee,
You mentioned something I have been curious about since buying my first masonry fireplace equiped home a couple of years ago. ALOT of heat is lost up the chimney and the more heat you create, you have to leave a window open for a vent. I have heard that an insert would be a good investment, I have seen one at Northern for around $2000. I'm debating its worth and if there is a better idea. Could you and anyone else give your opinion since I'm sure others would benifit from it as well?