Wood Splitter Cylinder Quit Moving...

[BarnieTrk]

Hi Fellas,
I have a 35-ton HUSKEE Wood Splitter equipped with a 12.5HP Briggs & Stratton engine. I have been the primary user (borrowed it to my son a couple of times many years ago) and have used it probably nearly every month (one or more tanks of fuel per use). It has worked flawlessly for over 12 years. It has a spin-on, automotive-style hydraulic fluid filter, which I changed about three years ago...just 'cause I figured I should. I keep the unit covered and it does not go bouncing up and down the road, it stays right here.

The Problem:
I ran two tanks of fuel through it just yesterday (yes, it was 90*F outside, but I was not in a hurry and I worked in the shade) - and it performed GREAT. Today, I preceded to split some more dry Ash, as I was doing yesterday. The engine started on the second pull (as it usually does), I placed a section of firewood on it. The wedge moved up 3-4" to make contact with the wood, as soon as the wedge touched the wood - it stopped moving forward and briefly made an odd sound. I immediately killed the engine looking the unit over for some obvious reason for the odd noise. I didn't see anything out of the norm. I restarted the engine (one pull), and it had a different sound to it, but not really 'bad' sounding. However, the cylinder does not move........

I checked the hydraulic fluid tank level. The dip stick indicated the fluid level to be about 30% into the FILL level...which I figured should be fine, since it was still cold. The fluid on the dip stick was clear and clean and appeared to be without any bubbles.

I am a novice with hydraulics, but I do own some tools and can manage the simpler tasks. I could change the hydrauluic filter again.... All the hoses and lines all look to be in good shape, no leaks, no damaged or bent tubing.

What do you think happened, Guys? Did the pump coupler give way? Is that a common fail with age?

What do I need to do to get it diagnosed and operating trouble-free again.

Thanks in Advance for any and all advice/suggestions/assistance! - BarnieTrk

P.S.
Ok, after doing some surfin',,,it seems this unit likely has an INLET FILTER which I never realized before. It is likely located at the base of the tank, inline of the inlet hydraulic hose supplying the hydraulic pump. I suppose that could be plugged off? But considering the age, many units seem to use a nylon engine-to-pump coupler, and they get brittle and break.... which may of accounted for the odd/slight noise I heard...

 

[RustyA]

Is the coupler between the engine and the pump turning on both ends? If so perhaps either the pump has failed or the valve has? With cylinder retracted reservoir should show full at least to bottom hash marks cold.

 

[BarnieTrk]

RustyA,
Thanks for the quick reply!
I didn't look for / at the coupler. I am not sure if I can see it without first dropping/unattaching the pump. I will do a closer inspection tomorrow. I will also inspect for evidence of an inline INLET FILTER located in the supply line at the base of the tank going to the pump.

I will report back.

Thanks again! - BarnieTrk

 

[CoyPatton]

RustyA,
Thanks for the quick reply!
I didn't look for / at the coupler. I am not sure if I can see it without first dropping/unattaching the pump. I will do a closer inspection tomorrow. I will also inspect for evidence of an inline INLET FILTER located in the supply line at the base of the tank going to the pump.

I will report back.

Thanks again! - BarnieTrk

Without the motor running, if you can remove the line going to the valve. Have a clean 5 gal bucket to place the hose end into. Now holding the hose in the bucket to control both, start the motor. You may want to have an assistant or to have the motor warmed up prior to disconnecting the hose from the valve.
If you have forceful flow, your pump is being supplied and working. If you have no flow or a trickle, you have problems at the pump (bad pump or the weak link coupler)
If you have forceful flow at the hose removed from the valve, you have issues with the valve, the hose to the cylinder or the cylinder itself.
Reconnect the hose to the valve, mark the hoses to know which came from which end of the cylinder (again motor off) remove the hoses from the cylinder and put them in the 5 gal bucket. If both have forceful flow, you have a problem with the cylinder, if neither have forceful flow, probably a valve issue, if one has more forceful flow than the other, you likely have a hose that has collapsed (I suggest replacing both, they have the same wear. Put the functioning one up as a spare if you want).

 

[big bubba]

sound advice CoyPatton
to the OP: i've had the same model Husky 35ton for around 14yrs flawless machine, great engine. hopefully your problem is easily solved.
best regards, bb

 

[flyerdan]

A quick look on the web seems to indicate that it should have a lovejoy coupler, so it should still run the pump, even if the insert has failed. It would be noisy and probably vibrate a lot, but should function.
It really sounds like the relief valve has failed; if the weird sounds are more of a squall, I'd check that for a broken spring. Especially since it moved to the point that the pressure started to build just before the failure.

 

[jmc]

I had a relatively new cylinder acting up similarly. Turned out that the rod was disconnected from the piston. Stripped threads maybe.

 

[CoyPatton]

sound advice CoyPatton
to the OP: i've had the same model Husky 35ton for around 14yrs flawless machine, great engine. hopefully your problem is easily solved.
best regards, bb

 

[oldnslo]

Can you see the coupling driving the pump? If yes watch to make sure it keeps turning while attempting to split a block of wood. Sheared drive key would squall until shaft seizes in coupling.

 

[BarnieTrk]

RustyA,
You asked if the coupler between the engine and the pump turning on both ends? It is not turning at the same rate. I suspect it has failed.


Flyerdan,
Yes, it does have a Lovejoy coupler. Which appears to be non-functioning...with the engine running, the top halve of the coupler spins, but the bottom half does not spin at the same rate...it makes some but slight movement with noise. I will loosen the four bolts holding the hydraulic pump to the brace beneath the engine. I suspect this will give me access to loosen the coupler set screws and remove it from the engine shaft and the pump shaft. I know it will be hot again tomorrow to do this job, but it probably is still better than doing it in February lying on the frozen tundra! Hopefully my neighborhood NAPA has the correct replacement coupler in stock. I'll report back tomorrow........

Thanks guys for all your assistance! -- BarnieTrk