Wood Splitter Cylinder Quit Moving...

[i7win7]

Hope it's something simple like a key or set screw fell out. You'll know more when you remove the coupler.

 

[LD1]

Those lovejoys are cheap. TSC usually stocks the ones in the sizes used on the huskee splitters. I'd buy both halves and a new spider. Replace everything as a set.

Just hope it didnt damage the pump shaft too much if it was a key that sheared

 

[BarnieTrk]

Well Fellas,
I was finally able to locate the correct allen wrench for the set screws. Without messing around, I reached for the good stuff penetrating oil (Kroil). Set screws removed. Not able to move the lower half of the coupler off the pump shaft. I unbolt the pump from the bracketry. More penetrating oil. Propane torch and more Kroil..... nothing budging. I apply more heat and more Kroil. I go do something else while the Kroil soaked in. I dig up my 'pickle fork' tool to push between the pump housing and the lower coupler half. SNAP!! I thought the coupler had popped off, but no...... the pump shaft snapped in two, just below the coupler. WTH.

So I drained the engine motor oil and the fuel tank. I removed the engine from its mount above the pump. Now I will be able to get the upper coupler half much easier...for heat and penetrant applications. I'm sure the rebuild or replacement pump issue will take at least a day or three. The hydraulic pump tag says: Haldex Hydraulics, #50307, #1002211.

Yep, the engine side coupler half had all three ears sheared off. The center rubber spider was pretty well shredded. The pump side lower coupler half was severly worn. I will need a new coupler entirely.

So - do I try and locate a replacement drive (input) shaft for the hydraulic pump - OR - do I simply step up and locate a complete replacement pump? I haven't yet looked for either............. My first stop will likely be McMaster-Carr....

BarnieTrk

 

[LD1]

Pictures of whats left?

You had to smack it pretty hard with the hammer /pickle fork to snap a shaft.

You are gonna be better served just getting a new pump. And given that it was paired to a 12hp engine....I'd assume thats a 16gpm 2-stage pump. Which sould run you about $150 + the coupling.

 

[triptester]

Pump parts are generally not available for these small pumps. The basic pumps have industry standard 4 bolt mounts although the intake port may vary to hose barb or threaded opening. Imported pumps generally have a aluminum body while most domestic pumps have all cast iron bodies. OEM prices can run as high as 300-400 dollars same pump after market name brand 150-200 dollars some even lower.

 

[BarnieTrk]

LD1,
I would have thought the same......"You had to smack it pretty hard with the hammer /pickle fork to snap a shaft."....but, I didn't. In addition, I was only using a carpenter's claw hammer, while I was lying on my side..and the pickle fork provided wedging on both sides of the shaft. The shaft was 1/2" diameter. Also consider that the pump was suspended from the two hoses - it's not like I had it against the concrete when I tapped/hit the pickle fork. I inspected the break; it didn't appear to have an old/rusted witness at a crack either. It does not seem likely, but that is what happened....

Yep, the OEM pump is a cast-iron bodied, 2-stage, 16-GPM unit.

triptester,
You are correct - exactly what I have been finding out- parts for this litttle pump are not really available.
Yep, it is a four bolt mounting flange. I need to match up the connections then pull the trigger on getting one coming this way. They look to be $170 to $220. I am aiming at a USA-made, cast-iron aftermarket pump.

I still need to get the top half of the coupling off of the vertical engine shaft. Then I can get the shaft diameter measurement and get a replacement coupler order as well. I bought some Full Synthtec motor oil for the engine this morning.

BarnieTrk

 

[CoyPatton]

LD1,
I would have thought the same......"You had to smack it pretty hard with the hammer /pickle fork to snap a shaft."....but, I didn't. In addition, I was only using a carpenter's claw hammer, while I was lying on my side..and the pickle fork provided wedging on both sides of the shaft. The shaft was 1/2" diameter. Also consider that the pump was suspended from the two hoses - it's not like I had it against the concrete when I tapped/hit the pickle fork. I inspected the break; it didn't appear to have an old/rusted witness at a crack either. It does not seem likely, but that is what happened....

Yep, the OEM pump is a cast-iron bodied, 2-stage, 16-GPM unit.

triptester,
You are correct - exactly what I have been finding out- parts for this litttle pump are not really available.
Yep, it is a four bolt mounting flange. I need to match up the connections then pull the trigger on getting one coming this way. They look to be $170 to $220. I am aiming at a USA-made, cast-iron aftermarket pump.

I still need to get the top half of the coupling off of the vertical engine shaft. Then I can get the shaft diameter measurement and get a replacement coupler order as well. I bought some Full Synthtec motor oil for the engine this morning.

BarnieTrk

Try a gear puller instead of the fork. I am guessing something similar to a ball joint fork. Coat the shaft and coupler connection down with penetrating oil. With some pressure on the puller, you can tap lightly on the coupler with s small hammer if it does not move readily with the puller.

 

[WranglerX]

Maybe something here for a pump....

2 Stage (Log Splitter) Pumps | Hydraulic Pumps | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Hydraulic Pumps | Northern Tool

Dale

 

[BarnieTrk]

Try a gear puller instead of the fork. I am guessing something similar to a ball joint fork. Coat the shaft and coupler connection down with penetrating oil. With some pressure on the puller, you can tap lightly on the coupler with s small hammer if it does not move readily with the puller.

I was not able to get a gear puller in on top of the pump as it was attached to the inlet and outlet lines. Had I known the shaft would break so easily, I would have drained the hydraulic fluid tank and disconnected the lines to the pump, removing the pump from beneath the splitter and worked with getting the coupler off the shaft from on the workbench. Yes, the pickle fork is intended for tierod ends and smaller ball joint separation tasks.

I was able to use a gear puller on the upper coupler half attached to the engine (1" diameter) driveshaft. After the same heating, penetrating oil, heating, etc....the coupler half pulled off the shaft without too much effort.

DL Meisen,
Thanks for the source of a replacement pump. From Surplus Center
I'm considering the #9-7503-16 pump.
I would like to know if it is a cast-iron or aluminum bodied pump. Any one know if it is or not?
Any idea if it is USA-made?

BarnieTrk

 

[triptester]

Here is another place for pumps.
Hydraulic log splitter 2 stage pumps LOW $$$ PRICE