Wood splitter

[stray]

Thanks Highridge. I used the PTO and added a log splitter detent valve with 4 Hoses. The PTO is rated at 10 gpm. Although the auxiliary would simplify the task of making a log splitter it is only rated at 3 gpm and doesn't have its own pump. That would make the splitter much slower.

 

[pequeajim]

Excuse me for a dumb queation but, can you do that with the PTO? I thought the PTO needed a constant flow with the pump on or you would damage the pump?

I hear you are not to turn the PTO switch on when the tractor is running?

Again, excuse the lack of knowlege about hydraulics.

 

[stray]

The log splitter valve has an open center. When the PTO switch is on the flow is just bypassing through that valve. You can leave it on no problem. Just when you kill the PT it won't start till you turn the PTO off. Then flip back on and you can leave it on the duration of the splitting session.

 

[Rip]

Just make sure the splitter valve, hoses and fittings are rated for the full PTO flow. You may also find that you get perfectly good performance (speed) at less than full engine RPM which would lower maximum flow through the system.

 

[Highridge]

Thanks Stray!

 

[stray]

Good point Rip. I used 1/2" hoses with size 1/2" pipe threads. Although the valve and cylinder was ported with 3/4" threads this size seemed to be plenty large enough to handle the full throttle full flow of the PTO. At full throttle using a 4" X 24" cylinder the cycle time was less than 10 seconds. As you stated it was found that I was satisfied with the speed and power of the splitter at 1/2 throttle.
My reasoning for thanking that full throttle full flow was being handled. When the PTO switch was turned on the engine would strain some for about one second then go back to the same Rpm and sound that it was before the PTO switch was turned on. Thus there didn’t seem to be any back pressure.

 

[pequeajim]

Thanks, that makes sense.

Then your valve sllows you to reverse the flow to the cylinder to pull the splitter back? I guess it would not be good to leave it in the forward or reverse position with no flow?

Also, (just can't seem to stop asking questions...), Do you think it would be practical to build something that would allow the splitter to rotate 90 or 180 degrees? I wonder if a rotating link would be too weak to lift much of anything?

Againg, excuse the dumb questions, I'm learning. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[MossRoad]

<font color="blue"> just can't seem to stop asking questions... </font>

You, too? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

When I stop asking questions, I think I'll be dead. What fun would it be to know everything and never learn anything new? Yuck! I hope that day never comes for any of us. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[stray]

Yes if you held the valve dead headed in forward it would be like turning the PTO on with nothing hooked up to it. I thank my splitter valve is set to bypass at a lower setting that the pto valve. Of course in the reverse direction of the splitter when the cylinder comes all the way back the valve kicks back to center on its own.

After all the concern about wanting to have an up right splitter I am now going to design mine to where you can roll it over and pick it up with a quick connect mounted on top of the other turned upside down. You will be able to roll it over, pick it up with this other quick plate, relocate the valve simply by sliding it into another bracket so it will be in position near the splitting part of the splitter. As moss said this WOULD be handy for small wood and Kindling (fire starting wood however you spell it). Thanks a lot guys! I thought I was done with that splitter. LOL

 

[stray]

OK guys. Give me some ideas! If it was your splitter how would you have it or build it to turn over or rotate. I really don't want to change the strength of its original design though.