Woodmaxx Snowblower Shear Bolts?

[TractorNH]

Why would the hydraulic top make a difference (and tilt)? If I just set it at a position and leave it be? My big problem is the draft levers. Can someone explain to me which of the draft levers to use or not use. That is what messes me up when I lift the 3 point.

On my next trip to Reno, I will stop at Harbor Freight and get their QH to see if it makes a difference. I think I have a manual top link around here somewhere.

There is no issue with leaving the top and tilt in place as long as it’s adjusted properly. Once it's set it doesn't move. Having the hydraulic top link is an advantage with a blower since you can adjust the angle on the go if needed which is handy if you have a gravel driveway. I set the feet on my blower as low as they can go then adjust the angle to set the height above the driveway.

For the levers, draft control only functions in the forward direction anyway so just keep that lever all the way down and use your regular lift lever to raise and lower the unit. With both levers down the snowblower will float on the ground.

 

[TractorNH]

Here is a link to a site with the restrictors. I'm sure there are other sites as well. I bought two of them through a dealer and they were about $10 each with the shipping they charged me.

Flow Restrictor Adapters - Quality Farm Supply

You'll need the 1/2" ones for your rear remote. Like I said, you only really need a restrictor on one side of the circuit but if you have to pay for shipping anyway you might want to get a couple for future use.

Also important, do not drill out the orifice! They come with a very tiny hole and it does not take much to make the circuit run faster again. Put it on as it comes with the 1/32 hole and test it out at your full PTO engine RPM since that's the maximum speed for the circuit.

 

[KanakaRick]

Here is a link to a site with the restrictors. I'm sure there are other sites as well. I bought two of them through a dealer and they were about $10 each with the shipping they charged me.

Flow Restrictor Adapters - Quality Farm Supply

You'll need the 1/2" ones for your rear remote. Like I said, you only really need a restrictor on one side of the circuit but if you have to pay for shipping anyway you might want to get a couple for future use.

Also important, do not drill out the orifice! They come with a very tiny hole and it does not take much to make the circuit run faster again. Put it on as it comes with the 1/32 hole and test it out at your full PTO engine RPM since that's the maximum speed for the circuit.

Awesome, I will order today.


Thanks

Rick

 

[RNeumann]

Why would the hydraulic top make a difference (and tilt)? If I just set it at a position and leave it be? My big problem is the draft levers. Can someone explain to me which of the draft levers to use or not use. That is what messes me up when I lift the 3 point.

On my next trip to Reno, I will stop at Harbor Freight and get their QH to see if it makes a difference. I think I have a manual top link around here somewhere.

The float isn’t in the links. It won’t make a difference......unless you keep messing with it while you have the PTO engaged

 

[leonz]

Good morning Rick.

Are you saying your dealer did not provide you with the threaded top link??; GGGRRRRR.

The individual draft controls on your mule control both lower link arms separately wherein it allows the lower link arms to be adjusted in small increments to have a fine adjustment to attach the individual link arm to the trailed implement(moldboard plow, disc harrow, rototiller, cultivator etc.

The hydraulic top link only complicates things for you as it should be removed.

YOUR mule dealer should have sent the tractor to you with the top link as you paid for it when you bought the mule and you should have it in your possession. If he or she did not provide you with it YOU should go there and sit on the edge of their desk until they give it to you as YOU paid for it


Please think of it in this manner; you have a yard stick and one end of the yardstick is taped to your elbow and the other end of the shaft is connected to the kitchen table top and you are sitting on the chair close to the kitchen table.

When you get begin to elevate your arm the yardstick begins to bend at the point where it is taped to the table and also at your elbow and if the PTO shaft is not long enough it will bind and eventually break the PTO shaft stub on the mule, the gearbox on the snow caster and damage the PTO SHAFT on both ends destroying the universal joints and breaking the Yokes on both halves of the compressed PTO shaft(the bicycle pump with the piston compressed to its base.


Your dealer obviously never took the time to explain this and a lot of other things about your mule to you; GGRRRR.

The draft controls on the mule should be elevated at the same time and they should have stop locks on the draft controls mounting plate that stop and limit the amount of lift that can occur for both draft arms.

For now its best to set them at a low point until you become more familiar with the mule and the snow caster as you have a wide implement. you can set them so that the snow caster is only off the ground a foot and it will not hurt anything.

You do not have to elevate them more than a foot off the ground for now as you need to clear snow and it would be better to have it elevated a little to shave snow pack where ever you have to clear it on the first pas and then make a second pass with it lowered.

If they sold snow throwers made in Europe here it would be so much easier for the end user to use them as they are ment for deep snows like the ones you experience on the hill and they do not need top links.

we are not trying to get in your way we only want to help you as your dealer did not help matters.

 

[KanakaRick]

Good morning Rick.

Are you saying your dealer did not provide you with the threaded top link??; GGGRRRRR.

My "mule" as you call it is a 2002 DK50 that I bought from my neighbor, with 600 hours on it. It came with a lot of attachments, and the threaded top link was somewhere. Probably buried in snow somewhere on my property.

 

[TractorNH]

The individual draft controls on your mule control both lower link arms separately wherein it allows the lower link arms to be adjusted in small increments to have a fine adjustment to attach the individual link arm to the trailed implement(moldboard plow, disc harrow, rototiller, cultivator etc.

The hydraulic top link only complicates things for you as it should be removed.

Your dealer obviously never took the time to explain this and a lot of other things about your mule to you; GGRRRR.

The draft controls on the mule should be elevated at the same time and they should have stop locks on the draft controls mounting plate that stop and limit the amount of lift that can occur for both draft arms.

If they sold snow throwers made in Europe here it would be so much easier for the end user to use them as they are ment for deep snows like the ones you experience on the hill and they do not need top links.

we are not trying to get in your way we only want to help you as your dealer did not help matters.

Draft control will do nothing affect the function of the snowblower. Just set the draft lever all the way down and leave it there. Use the raise and lower lever to raise and lower the blower. Draft control is only relevant to ground engaging implements. If you want to read more about draft control check out this thread:
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/ag-tractors-machinery/351630-draft-control-how-does-work.html

Whether a top link is hydraulic or not makes no difference since the hydraulics are nothing more than a means to adjust the length and it would remain at the set length unless the operator changes it.

 

[Fallon]

Unless you have a leaky valve, TnT won't complicate anything. It will make it a lot easier to get things adjusted right or tweak them when you are going. Why on earth would an appropriately sized hydraulic cylinder cause problems over the same sized threaded rod? It just means you can adjust the toplink or side link length easily. If you were having problems with things staying put in operation, maybe, but this issue is about things not working from the start.

 

[tstae]

I have a Woodmaxx SB-72 Snowblower with TnT on my Grand L 4760. I have run it for three years and have never had a shear bolt break.

 

[KanakaRick]

Just got done plowing in a 3' overnight dump, here in Truckee. I think I am narrowing down the issues.

In front of the draft levers are two other levers. One is for the tilt, and the other is for the top. The top lever is different from the tilt lever in that, in the summer that is the valve I pull back to open flow to my backhoe. And since I am not using the backhoe in the winter, I figured I could use that valve for the top cylinder. The problem with that valve is when it opens, it opens as either on or off and nothing in between and it stays open. One of the issues is the speed of the flow when opened- and it has been suggested that I get a flow restrictor to eliminated the shuddering when I try to feather that valve to try to slowly adjust the top. The BIGGER PROBLEM is that when I am running the tractor, and I bump that lever with my leg, it opens fully and pushes the top fully out in literally an instant, causing the blower box to shift forward 45 degrees instantly and then I hear the dreaded bolt snap. Last night I broke two shear pins by accidentally bumping that one lever with my knee. I guess I need to dig out that threaded top link and see if that solves the problem.... I wonder where it is???

I guess the solution to that is to use a threaded top link instead of the hydraulic and just don't bother with that valve.