Woods 7500 BH on L3010

[Anonymous Poster]

Corm, that is true that the reservoir size is important, and the larger the better. With my tractor and Kubota hoe the self contained reservoir on the hoe has more oil capacity than the tractor has, so your example is the other way around. The tractor transmission holds 3 gal and the hoe reservoir is 5 gal capacity, however it took 6.5 gal to fill including the pump, hoses and cylinders.

As far as heat added, a self contained system has lots of surface area on the tank and pump to dissipate the heat. The only heat input is from the hoe. The tractor hydraulic system has to deal with the heat from both the hoe and the tractor transmission with no additional heat dissipation surfaces. There is no question that the separate systems will operate cooler than the combined type, although I do not think that heat will be much of an issue with either type of system for most people.

I found that I could buy the Kubota hoe with a pump for less than the Woods hoe without a pump.

The rear remotes (added cost) have other uses, but the extra backhoe pump can also be used for other things too.

Andy

 

[Corm]

Andy - Thanks for the info. I was going by what I had been told by other folks. I'm surprised that the hoe alone would have a greater reservoir than a hoe using the tractor reservoir, but I have no personal experience with a self contained hoe. Thanks for setting me straight.

Corm

 

[chrisjbell]

Hi Corm,

My $.02....

I have a Woods 6500 backhoe on a Kubota B7300. In my case, the tractor is already on the small side so had no choice in getting the external PTO pump for the hoe. The subframe hasn't proven to be a problem as far as ground clearance, even on pretty rough land (doing some cleanup after a big bulldozer).

As long as you have the "umph" for the hydraulics, putting in the rear outlets will improve your tractor's functionality. The hoe does generate some heat, but I would be surprised if you have a problem with that issue.

I am a strong proponent of the subframe and highly recommend it. Any tractor will benefit from the added strength, especially if you want to push the limits of your hoe.

Last, I would definately recommend the longest hoe your tractor can handle. Putting a hoe on it will mess up your balance and handling enough that I can't imagine that going a little bigger would make that much of a difference (I can feel the matched hoe on my neighbor's big Ford tractor nearly as much as my big hoe on my little tractor). Hoes is big.

Have fun with whatever you get - they are a blast...Chris

 

[chrisjbell]

Oh - one more thing. I paid about $6500 for my 6 1/2 hoe with PTO pump, installed (picked up and dropped off)...Chris

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Chris,

One thing that is often overlooked is that with some models of tractor with the Kubota hoe a subframe is used. I have a B2400 with a Kubota hoe. The correct Kubota hoe installation includes the heavy duty top link bracket and "subframe" brackets that are mounted under the tractor. This subframe bolts to the loader frame up front and the differential in the rear on both sides of the 3pt. It increases the strength of the tractor considerably. It was designed by Kubota to handle the extra stress from the hoe. It is shaped so that it does not reduce ground clearance at all. Like the heavy duty top link, the Kubota subframe stays on the tractor all the time, adding strength even when the hoe is not attached. The hoe also has no subframe sticking out when disconnected from the tractor, requiring less storage space. The subframe costs about $125 including all the mounting bolts.

Andy

 

[chrisjbell]

Hi Andy,

I looked at the Kubota hoe, and it came with the "beefing up" components you mention. You're right about the storage issue - I do have the sub-frame sticking out from the hoe. And the bracket that the frame mounts to does stick down a couple of inches, but I've never had it get hung up on anything.

For my smaller tractor I still think that the subframe is the way to go. The stuff that Kubota bolts on would help, and as you point out would also strengthen the rear frame assembly with no hoe. But with my tractor, I would really worry about the twisting damage that would occur in the middle of the tractor. Having a nice, strong back end wouldn't do me much good if the frame decided to become a pretzel in the middle [g]...Chris

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Chris,

Woods makes good quality products and choosing what you feel comfortable with is always the best choice.

There should not be to much twisting force along the length of the tractor. In order to have a twisting force applied to the tractor, the front would have to be restrained while the back twisted. The stabilizers help prevent the back from twisting. If the stabilizers don't do their job because of soft ground or some other reason, then the most twisting force that could be applied to the tractor frame would be the amount needed to tip the tractor over sideways. That level of force still should not be enough to damage the frame (some of the tractor weight is at the back end). If I am not mistaken, the Woods subframe has a narrow connection in the middle of the tractor up front and because of that and would not do much to prevent twisting.

I think it is usually front to back flexing that can cause the most damage. Driving fast over rough ground with a load in the bucket and the backhoe on the back may produce the highest stress in the frame, even more than when digging. The subframe, of whatever type, adds a parallel frame at some distance to the tractor frame and really stiffens up the front to back stress pathway.

I decided on the Kubota B4672 with pump instead of the Woods 6500 because of the subframe type, higher digging power, replaceable bushings, and lower cost (around 5K). Like I said, the best choice is the one you are the most comfortable with and Woods makes good products.

Andy

 

[Boondox]

Used Woods 7500 BH

Okay, I found a gently used Woods 7500. It's a year old. The owner says he put less than 15 hours on it before realizing he needed a larger tractor. Been in the garage for months and was just traded in (with the original tractor) on an L48. Since the bucket still has most of the paint, the unit obviously hasn't seen much use. But what do I look for in a used hoe? What are the problem points with this hoe?

Pete

 

[AndyR]

Re: Used Woods 7500 BH

Hook it up and try it out, Make sure the controls are tight (I've seen 7500's with loose controls - very jerky movements). Make sure you can get grease into every zerk fitting (and for that matter look for signs that this has been done regularly). Check the hydraulic shafts for any dings, seals as well. Push and pull on everything - it should be pretty tight. Check the arms and teeth for any cracks or repair welds.
Good Luck!

 

[hayden]

Re: Used Woods 7500 BH

That's a good list. Also check for signs of leaking fluid. Will the dealer give a 30 day warranty?

Will you frame mount or 3PH mount, and does it have a self contained pump?

How much $$ will you same with the used unit?