Woodsplitter Question

[smoker]

I have a 22 ton Huskee splitter. I woulkd like to add a few inches of height to the splitting wedge. Seems as though my trees are getting fatter and require me to take two hits to split. Anyone done this? sure would like some input. Called Huskee/Speeco with expected results......NOT! Thanks, smoker

 

[irish69man]

I have the same one U do and I made a 4way split adapter on it. like the one from northern tool. added a taller back plate also works great.

 

[smoker]

irish69man, The tech at Speeco told me that the 4 way head was only good for soft wood. How has yours functioned for you? I have a couple of years of warrantee left on mine and he told me if I modified it in any way I would void it. smoker

 

[dougtrr2]

I haven't done it but have the same problem you do. If you raise the wedge do you need to raise the cylinder so it is centered on the wedge. If it isn't centered will it put a bind on the wedge assembly as it slides. I know there is a lot of clearance, just wondered about that side of it. I have thought about putting a sacrificial block for the wedge to hit. My splitter stops 3-4 inches short of the anvil(?) and sometimes I think if it went that extra distance I would get a clean split. I go through about 6 cords a year and still need 1 1/2 to fill me up for this winter. I live on a small 6-8 acre wooded acreage and in 17 years have not had to cut down a live tree yet. Just keep cleaning up the standing dead wood.

Take Care,
Doug in SW IA

 

[smoker]

This is kind of my Sons idea as he is the loader and I am the handle operator . His idea was to weld a peice of 3/4 sharpened steel to the top of the wedge but set it back an inch or so, so that it does'nt get the full force of the beginning split. Hmmm, still thinkin. smoker

 

[Rio_Grande]

Smoker I used one for twenty years that was extended the way your son suggested and it worked fine.

In my area we split alot of oak and hickory cuts and I like the quick pop of a wide wedge as opposed to the long slow cut of a knife like edge. Now I know everyone seems to disagree with me on that but if the splitter is up to the force required I think that quick pop takes away the need for that tall wedge if we are talking a few inches. Now if you got a foot to make up (lol) u need a taller wedge... I would tack on some angle iron wings to the current wedge and see what happens, they are easy to remove if the splitter dosent have the power, and if they do work it is an easy quick solution.

 

[smoker]

I think I'll take a picture of what I have in mind. Was the wedge mounted to your cylinder? Mine is but I don't think it should make much difference??? I'll get those pictures, ( if I can get them posted ), ASAP. smoker

 

[SPYDERLK]

I haven't done it but have the same problem you do. If you raise the wedge do you need to raise the cylinder so it is centered on the wedge. If it isn't centered will it put a bind on the wedge assembly as it slides. I know there is a lot of clearance, just wondered about that side of it. I have thought about putting a sacrificial block for the wedge to hit. My splitter stops 3-4 inches short of the anvil(?) and sometimes I think if it went that extra distance I would get a clean split. I go through about 6 cords a year and still need 1 1/2 to fill me up for this winter. I live on a small 6-8 acre wooded acreage and in 17 years have not had to cut down a live tree yet. Just keep cleaning up the standing dead wood.

Take Care,
Doug in SW IA

These are good questions and the answer is yes. A taller wedge would be harder on the splitter and esp harder on the wedge slider unless you move the line of action up to center the push point. Not a huge issue tho, so add to the wedge as is if you want. I seldom have much trouble tho getting a good split on even 40 inch stuf with my 7 inch wedge. When I have trouble I use a hatchet to cut the stringers. Truly full travel of the wedge is needed vanishingly seldom. I think it would remove some options, and would rather just space the anvil if necessary.
larry

 

[smoker]

This is a picture of the wedge in question. I thought going to 1/2" steel would leave a small reveal for welding and then make the profile match the top dimensions. Hope this picture loads. smoker

 

[yomax4]

I added 4" to the top of my wedge. Never looked back. Tilt it slightly forward to keep your log from riding up. Wish I would have done it 10 years ago. The 4 way attachments work for hardwood too ( hardwood splits better than soft wood) But it made way too small of pieces. Take a piece of 5/8 plate and make you wedge extension and enjoy..

 

[smoker]

yomax4, so you went 4" ....OK, sounds good. Would it be possible for you to get a picture? Smoker

 

[yomax4]

I will try to send a pic in the morning. ( gotta catch a plane ).

 

[smoker]

Sure would appreciate that yomax4. Pictures really tell the whole story. smoker

 

[20 20]

irish69man, The tech at Speeco told me that the 4 way head was only good for soft wood. How has yours functioned for you? I have a couple of years of warrantee left on mine and he told me if I modified it in any way I would void it. smoker

FYI; there is considerable variation in actual wood hardness in both groups; some hardwoods (e.g., balsa) are softer than most softwoods; on the other hand, yew is an example of a hard softwood.

I posted this quote because I'm not sure why a 4 way would only be good on soft wood. I have split hemlock that was harder splitting then cherry or maple????

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Justs to toss my 2 cents worth. There would be the other factors of knots and whether or not the wood is dry or wet when split before putting on a 4 way head. Cottonwood is a bugger to split when it is real dry as it is stringy. Splitting it green is easier not that I am going to burn the junk.
Dry fir is easier to split than green. With all of the wood that I get I don't try to hand split stuff with knots any more. I am faster swinging a splitting maul on nice straight grained wood than my splitter. So I will swing the maul for exercise and speed. The 34 ton splitter gets the gnarly stuff. I have considered a 4 way blade though if I am splitting big rounds.

 

[radioman]

I think your sons idea has merit and I think it will work. You just will need to add gussets for back force. I'd put the higher wedge right on the larger part of your wedge and add side gussets from new wedge all the way down to the old gussets.

You really shouldnt have to worry about warranty on the splitter. There is not too much to go wrong on it. its either the engine or seals in ram that goes wrong.

 

[smoker]

At my age I ain't faster at anything...except drifting off to sleep . We have Oak, Black Locust, Ash and some cherry. Green Locust and Oak can be very stringy. All I need is a couple of inches in hieght to clean it up. You are right Radioman, there really isn't much to go wrong and that's why I'm going to go ahead and try it. Sure do appreciate all your help. smoker

 

[GE222]

Smoker,
While your idea is a good one, it will most likely tear up the moveable wedge. I built my own splitter with a ram that pushes into a fixed wedge. Far better for your idea. My neighbor has one similar to yours, and he has twice had me weld up the moveable wedge as the poor factory welds tore apart.
:ashamed:

 

[smoker]

222, ( my favorite caliber ), then that would be an exersize in futility and also would conjer up a comment from my wife relating to " another one of his dumb ideas ". I've seen many designs and some have merit an others just ain't gonna work. Worst case, I crank up the old Lincoln and make more Turkey poop

 

[smoker]

Here's what I ended up with. I want to thank you all for helping. smoker