Woodstove Insert Advice

   / Woodstove Insert Advice #1  

cmhyland

Platinum Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2003
Messages
673
Location
Woodstock Valley, CT
Tractor
2000 Kubota B2910
After years of talking to my wife about putting a woodstove in the kitchen fireplace and getting shot down... she is getting very nervous about where the price of oil is going.

She said to me the other day we need to look at putting a stove in the kitchen fireplace.

On further discussion what she wants is an insert that is cast iron and with blower.

We currently have a Jotul Firelight stove in another part of the house... So we like the Jotul products... We also like the Vermont Castings....

Anyone have advice on Inserts? Anything specific to look for?

Thanks,
Chris
 
   / Woodstove Insert Advice #2  
After years of talking to my wife about putting a woodstove in the kitchen fireplace and getting shot down... she is getting very nervous about where the price of oil is going.

She said to me the other day we need to look at putting a stove in the kitchen fireplace.

On further discussion what she wants is an insert that is cast iron and with blower.

We currently have a Jotul Firelight stove in another part of the house... So we like the Jotul products... We also like the Vermont Castings....

Anyone have advice on Inserts? Anything specific to look for?

Thanks,
Chris

The inserts I've had experience with were always low on heat output, but I'm sure a blower would help that issue. I've had much better results with free-standing stoves, sometimes routed into existing fireplaces (though I have none configured this way currently). I think this method is the most efficient way to capture heat (passively anyway). You might look at the offerings of Hearthstone. I have a couple of their stoves (one wood, one gas), the soapstone (or granite) is nice because its both attractive and radiates the heat well, even after the fire dies.
 
   / Woodstove Insert Advice #3  
A woodstove with a blower in the kitchen... is this an older floorplan design or is it a more modern 'open' floorplan? If it is fairly closed off I would think you might get ran out of there in short order if running a woodstove with a blower.

I have a Quadrafire insert pellet stove and really like it. I have not used their woodstove products but wouldn't hesitate based on my experience with the pellet stove.

One thing to look for would be to make sure you have the correct sized fire-resistant flooring/hearth/whatever in front of the fireplace. My tiled area was apparently large enough for the fireplace but just barely for the pellet stove... no way it was big enough for a woodstove insert. I would have had to cut out wood flooring, trying to match the border, lay down more tile etc etc to get a woodstove insert in there.
 
   / Woodstove Insert Advice #4  
When I was looking last year, I was impressed with Pacific Energy's insert. It claimed to work well even without electricity, and the efficiency looked good. Ultimately, I bought a free standing soapstone stove off CL for $800, but if I hadn't, I would have bought the PE stove.
 
   / Woodstove Insert Advice
  • Thread Starter
#5  
A woodstove with a blower in the kitchen... is this an older floorplan design or is it a more modern 'open' floorplan? If it is fairly closed off I would think you might get ran out of there in short order if running a woodstove with a blower.

I have a Quadrafire insert pellet stove and really like it. I have not used their woodstove products but wouldn't hesitate based on my experience with the pellet stove.

One thing to look for would be to make sure you have the correct sized flooring in front of the hearth. Mine was apparently large enough for the fireplace but just barely for the pellet stove... no way it was big enough for a woodstove insert. I would have had to cut out wood flooring, trying to match the border, lay down more tile etc etc to get a woodstove insert in there.

Thanks Charlz,

The house is near 300 yrs old... But the floor plan is somewhat open... The room is 18X24 with a 8 foot wide opening into the family room and 3 ft wide to the dining room...

There is about 20 inches of raised stone hearth in front of the fireplace... The inserts we're looking at are all flush to the face of the fireplace.

Thanks,
Chris
 
   / Woodstove Insert Advice #6  
I am in the process of doing the same thing now. i did some reading on the subject and found a few potential problems. The inserts are known to cause chimney fires because the fireplace flu does not get hot enough and the creosote will build up because of the reduced heat going up the chimney.
Now putting a stand alone stove in requires some special construction.
It is recommended to use stainless steel pipe sized to the output of your stove. The pipe is placed inside the existing chimney it can be flexible or straight sections depending on the positioning of the stove and flue. The fire place damper has to be removed. If it is a steel insert fireplace like mine you will need to cut part of the fireplace away to get the pipe through. After the pipe is in place a steel plate is necessary to block off the top of the fire place where it angles into the flue with a tight fit around the stove pipe. a two piece plate makes this installation much more easy. Next the top of the chimney needs to be sealed off so water leaves and critters do not go down around the stove pipe. Finally from what I have read the height of the chimney is critical for stoves if not high enough the stove will not draw and smoke will build up in the stove which could cause a problem. As far as the type of stove except for the soap stone stoves which are by far the best but also the most costly and require manufacture installation. caste iron or steel plate have been shown that neither has an advantage as far as heating goes. I am sure that some will argue this because they have one or the other but independent studies prove otherwise it is just a personal preference, caste iron is usually nicer looking because of the shapes.
 
   / Woodstove Insert Advice #7  
A couple years ago we pulled our fireplace insert and replace with a heatnglo northstar woodstove insert and love it. This thing really cranks out the heat and looks good doing it too. This was one of the few that I could get the Mrs to approve and get her blessing on. We have an 1800 sq foot log home with a cathedral ceiling and it heats the whole house easily.

Things I like about it:
1. Has a blower that can be manually turned on or will come on automatically. The automatic thing from my experience almost seems to be a safety item because it really has to get warm before it kicks on.

2. Outside air or inside air intake for the firebox. I just use outside to keep to help keep the house pressurized.

3. I am capable of cleaning the chimney from the fireplace. It does require removing one catalytic tube and removing the fireboard and pad but after that I can run my bristle all the way to the top of the chimney and inspect afterwards.

My chimney is a double walled stainless with the air space and I have never had really any significant amount of creosote. It's a 30' stack and have never had any spot with buildup but I usually clean the fireplace twice during the season.

Things I don't like:
Can be difficult to get the smoke to go up the chimney when lighting on damp days. I'm sure part of this is due to the length of the stack.

The glass doors tend to soot over them. It's not too difficult to clean with fireplace glass cleaner or by getting a hot fire going and burning it off but it makes you realize why a lot of them don't have glass.

All in all we are extremely happy with our purchase. Our house stays warmer now in the winter and the saving from having to buy propane have already paid for itself. Heats extremely well and is aesthetically pleasing.

We almost bought a quadrafire but it wouldn't fit so we went with the Northstar instead.
 
   / Woodstove Insert Advice #8  
I have an old pre-EPA Ember Hearth insert with blower. It has a large firebox and throws a lot of heat but it will only hold a fire for about 5 hours max of usable heat. It was given to me and I put it in myself so I don't complain. I did not line the chimney, just made a block out plate to seal the pipe up through the damper. I burn pretty hot and my chimney is short so I don't get much creosote. If I were gonna buy a new one, I'd look into Blaze King catalytic inserts. Supposed to burn 24 hours on a load. Has some kind of automatic draft control that regulates the draft for maximum efficiency of the cat. This would be perfect for me, as I'm gone all day and with my stove I generally only build a fire in the evening and on weekends if I'm home I'll keep a fire going all day, which is 3 loads. Depends on how you want to use it. If you were home all the time, the long burn time might not be so important.

good sites for research:

Hearth.com Forums Home

http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/
 
   / Woodstove Insert Advice #9  
I have an EPA rated insert made by Vermont Castings. The name of it is the merrimack. it is a great stove and has a huge fire box!! I have been heating with it for two seasons now and love it.
good luck in you decisons
 
   / Woodstove Insert Advice #10  
Anyone have advice on Inserts? Anything specific to look for?

I've been using the Kozy Heat Z42 Wood Fireplace for a couple years now. It's essentially a zero clearance woodstove that sits in the wall, and like all modern units, uses outside air for combustion and energy efficiency.

It's centrally located in my house and *easily* heats my entire 3300 sq ft to a comfortable 70+ degrees in single digit outside temperatures. Having said that, I do have a new home with R50 in the attic, so that's certainly an important factor.

I'm very happy with the unit. Burns well, but you do need the variable speed blower running. Without the blowers (i.e. electricity), it wouldn't heat nearly as well.


HH
 

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