murphy1244
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Need some plans to build a 30" by 5' or so work bench. Thank you for any and all help.
Work Bench Plans
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PHPaul
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What sort of work will you be doing on it?
Basic bench is pretty simple: 4x4 legs, a "belt" of 2x4 about 6" off the floor all the way around to stiffen the bottom of the legs, a belt of 2x4 all the way around flush with the top of the legs to screw the top to. On a 5' bench, a leg on each corner should be enough. If you expect to do really heavy work, another leg in the center, front and back, may be a good idea.
I use two pieces of 3/4 plywood for the top. Bottom piece screwed or nailed to the 2x4 perimeter, top piece screwed to the bottom piece.
The two piece top has two advantages: It's WAY stiffer than a single piece, and when the top gets too beat up, it can be unscrewed and flipped over for a fresh surface, or replaced if both sides have been used.
If you're REALLY gonna be beating on it, you may want a piece of sheet steel on the top. Or for more delicate work, perhaps some Formica or Masonite.
Size the frame to leave a 2" overhang on the front for clamping things to. If it will be accessible from the sides and back, leave an overhang there too.
If you plan to mount a vise, plan for that when framing it.
Basic bench is pretty simple: 4x4 legs, a "belt" of 2x4 about 6" off the floor all the way around to stiffen the bottom of the legs, a belt of 2x4 all the way around flush with the top of the legs to screw the top to. On a 5' bench, a leg on each corner should be enough. If you expect to do really heavy work, another leg in the center, front and back, may be a good idea.
I use two pieces of 3/4 plywood for the top. Bottom piece screwed or nailed to the 2x4 perimeter, top piece screwed to the bottom piece.
The two piece top has two advantages: It's WAY stiffer than a single piece, and when the top gets too beat up, it can be unscrewed and flipped over for a fresh surface, or replaced if both sides have been used.
If you're REALLY gonna be beating on it, you may want a piece of sheet steel on the top. Or for more delicate work, perhaps some Formica or Masonite.
Size the frame to leave a 2" overhang on the front for clamping things to. If it will be accessible from the sides and back, leave an overhang there too.
If you plan to mount a vise, plan for that when framing it.
Last edited:
OP
murphy1244
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Thanks Paul, nice and easy. How tall you think??
PHPaul
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Depends on how tall you are. I'm a shade under 6 feet tall and have mine at 36".
Also, if you have the tools (all you really need is a circular saw and a good sharp chisel) notch the 4x4's so the 2x4's fit flush. Much stiffer that way.
Also, if you have the tools (all you really need is a circular saw and a good sharp chisel) notch the 4x4's so the 2x4's fit flush. Much stiffer that way.
OP
murphy1244
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I have a drawer from a kitchen rebuild to add to it. How do I cut out the 4x4 for the 2x4 cross braces?
DB Pilot
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I went to a Big Box hardware store and found black plastic legs for a work bench it requires 3 sheets of 3/4" plywood or any size you choose from 4'x8' to smaller. Screws are included. Oh yes and 2'x4's as connectors. Everybody who sees my two workbenches ends up buying the legs. Very solid, quick and an easy take down should you want to move. Also able to mount a wood workers vise to the 2x4 top band for a very useable table. Lots of storage space on the bottom two shelves also. :2cents: Fast and done.
lucky llama
Silver Member
Google 2x4 basics. They have some pretty handy legs and shelf pieces that are attached with 2x4's