Work lights for welding?

[ning]

I feel like I'm an "ok" welder, but I definitely do my best work when I can actually see what I'm doing.
Unfortunately, I do most of my welding at night and though my shop lights up plenty bright for most work, as soon as that arc strikes I realize I could definitely use twice as much light - and often I end up in front of my shop where it's kinda dim and then I'm really blind.

I've seen some helmets that have LED lights on them, that seems like a possibility (I love my headlamp for other things but havent' tried stretching it over my helmet, doubt it would reach).

My thought is a big LED panel that I could hang from my neck and possibly belt around my chest, so I'm like iron man with this bright glowing thing in front of me, would do the trick pretty well, but I haven't seen anything like that.

What do y'all do for intense work light, ideally something that moves with you?

 

[kevin37b]

Glasses ?

 

[flyerdan]

Probably the best way to go would be one of those dual halogen work lights with the adjustable stand. That way you could position it where you need it and stow it out of the way most of the time.

 

[YanmarFever]

Have you tried a lighter colored lens on your welding helmet ?

 

[ning]

Have you tried a lighter colored lens on your welding helmet ?

I have an adjustable lens and it seems set to the right point for the brightness of the arc; reducing the darkness would endanger the eyes.

Better would be to illuminate everything else more so that it is slightly visible still. I do OK welding in direct sunlight when everything is well lit, but shop & night when the metal is dark but the arc is just as bright not so much.

 

[ruffdog]

Probably the best way to go would be one of those dual halogen work lights with the adjustable stand. That way you could position it where you need it and stow it out of the way most of the time.

I have one of those dual lights on a stand and a single light on a short stand that sits on the bench or floor. It makes a huge difference.

 

[WranglerX]

In concept..... But you can always add "work" light as ambient light source..... The brighter your work area the less strain to see weld...

Something like this may be just what you need for more ambient light ...

2ND GENERATION PORTABLE LED WORKLIGHT W / SINGLE TRIPOD-3500LM (MC) – Honeywell LED Lighting

honeywellledlighting.com

 

[grsthegreat]

I tried using a led light stand in the past, but the intense light would keep triggering the auto darkening lens to darken. When NOT welding. Didnt help.

 

[dstig1]

Probably the best way to go would be one of those dual halogen work lights with the adjustable stand. That way you could position it where you need it and stow it out of the way most of the time.

Bingo. Works great. GRS notes that LEDs can trigger the autodark lens, which is possible, so stick with good old analog halogens instead.

 

[WranglerX]

I tried using a led light stand in the past, but the intense light would keep triggering the auto darkening lens to darken. When NOT welding. Didnt help.

I had that issue also with my AD helmet and just turned sensitivity down to a point where random lights did not trigger hood....

 

[Deleted member 371759]

I tried using a led light stand in the past, but the intense light would keep triggering the auto darkening lens to darken. When NOT welding. Didnt help.

If your hood has a sensitivity adjustment turn it down. It wont effect much when starting the arc unless you are doing some type of super low amp welding. The sensitivity adjustment is mainly used when welding around others in a shop environment. Turning sensitivity up prevents you from getting arc flash when someone close by arcs up. .

 

[workinonit]

I use a Milwaukee stand LED light that works great for me. It sits on the floor but I can get it in position so it doesn't false trigger the helmet.

 

[etpm]

All of the super bright LEDs are pulsed during operation to keep them cool. Though our eyes cannot see this pulsing (most of the time), your welding hood can see this pulsing and sometimes it will cause the hood to trigger. There are several way s around this. Your hood may have adjustable sensitivity. Your hood also should have several sensors and sometimes covering one or more of them will stop the triggering. Changing the placement of the LED light source can work. Another thing that works sometimes is to use one incandescent light source along with the LEDs. This way you don't have all the heat and power consumption from several bright incandescent light sources. And just FYI, auto darkening hoods block all the UV all the time. So even if the hood doesn't trigger and your eyes get dazzled from the bright light you don't need to worry about getting a UV flash and eye damage.
Eric

 

[grsthegreat]

If you take a video of an led sign, you can see the flashing. I noticed this videoing a gas price sign recently.

 

[jaxs]

You can't beat old technology and low budget. Best way to describe it is the reflectors you see doctors and surgeons wearing in vintage pictures. It's simple,light weight and easy to take into the field. Can be fashioned in many ways using various concave objects with alastic and Velcro from sewing isle. I present have one made from reverse side of an old water ski mirror and another built from a flash bulb reflector. To restore reflective surface damaged by arc spatter I use Aluminum kitchen wrap held in place by spray tack glue. I made paper templates for cutting foil so it conforms to concave surfaces without wrinkles. Templates and spare reflectors are stored in a flat box. Until you get the hang of adjusting reflector angle work with a small light in position and distance from hood your electrode will contact work.

 

[ning]

If you take a video of an led sign, you can see the flashing. I noticed this videoing a gas price sign recently.

I can see many LEDs flashing if my eyes are panning/scanning across the light, especially with car tail lights. It's not obvious typically just by looking at them.

I believe it's because the brightness of LEDs is typically managed by modulating/time-slicing; if you want them brighter (like for brake lights), it's the same juice just on solid, and dim = only have them on part of the time (for taillights)

 

[mikester]

I use an LED flashlight with a magnetic swivel base so I can mount close to the work area out of the way

something like these. Unfortunately cheap and the swivel bases tend to break if dropped from a height

 

[ArlyA]

I use an LED flashlight with a magnetic swivel base so I can mount close to the work area out of the way

something like these. Unfortunately cheap and the swivel bases tend to break if dropped from a height
View attachment 811090

I purchased 3 of these lights and loved them,,,, until that swivel base breaks. Not dropped, the base is just built to light.

 

[mikester]

I purchased 3 of these lights and loved them,,,, until that swivel base breaks. Not dropped, the base is just built to light.

Our local army surplus had double length ones with small swivels on each end. Super bright, more durable than the above photo

 

[1 of U]

sounds like you need to take the time and set you up a welding area
and stop doing the half @ss setup you been doing , you need good lighting
then set up the lights as well as a welding table .
you get out what you put in
invest in yourself .